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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 08:33 AM
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Here we go again

I was driving on the access road about forty miles an hour and the truck wouldn't accelorate. I but the truck in neutral and it was idling, so I put it back in drive and it just died. I got it started again had a rough idle but managed to go another block or two at a slow rate of speed. I pulled it to the service station to put fuel in the truck as it was real low and left it idling, it died a few minutes later and will not start again. A hundred a thirty dollars later got it towed to the house.

I will check the ficm after work today ,but where do i go from there? I was going to install the blue spring this weekend but I guess the truck has other ideas. this makes about three grand I have spent on this thing this year after the injectors and alternator instaled this year.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 05:07 PM
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OK, I check the FICM and on the first test I only got eleven volts. I got the forty eight volts on all the other test. I have a seven pin FICM, if I am reading the test right in the tech folder the pin closest to the fender is the pin of the four rolls closest to the fender is that right? And not the the three row which is below the four pins.

Next question: there is a resolder fix for the four pin FICM. Will that same prosedure work for the seven pin?? If so I am one happy camper. Help Please.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 06:31 PM
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Correct, closest to the drivers side fender on the row of four.

The repair procedure can work on the 7 pin FICM as well as the 4 pin, but you should still inspect the board closely for any other hot spots or cold broken solder joints. It's not uncommon to find components completely un soldered and moving around with slight pressure, it possible for any of these components to be overheated to a point their electrical value has changed and re soldering isn't going to make them work right. It costs a few bucks but a professional repair with a warranty is worth the bucks in my opinion. The unit will be bench tested and out of spec parts replaced.
Ed@ficmrepair.com has a great rep here at FTE for quick, quality work at a reasonable price AND quick turn-around time if you need your truck fixed quickly.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 07:08 PM
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you need a gauge so you can watch stuff as you drive
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 07:08 PM
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Does Ed have a website or phone number. Yes I need the truck pretty quick. I have read good things about his repairs.

I would like to try the solder trick I have an expert solder man. Do ya think it can harm it to wear it can't be repair if it doesn't work. And if it does work I'll be on the road this weekend.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 07:13 PM
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Blade I have been lokking in to that. Just I don't know what I'm looking at once I get one. Do the gauges come with a instruction book. I have been reading on FTE when you folks stert talking about these gauges and I'm left scratch my ***. I'm learning hehehe.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 07:17 PM
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Get A scanGaugeII

From AurtoZone or www.scangauge.com

Once you get it you can program the gauges and then post there Values

I can send you the specific procedure to test all the sensors
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 07:19 PM
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Just click here for Ed --> ed@ficmrepair.com. The website is www.ficmrepair.com . I think he has mentioned charging a little extra if you tried to fix it yourself and goofed it up badly.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 09:53 AM
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I'm going with the atlas-40 tune the web-site tells all about the tunes and sounds like a good deal. When I get it back togather I'll update. Thanks guys for the help,,, again!
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 10:21 AM
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Better Have the Batterys Tested and the Alternator To

You can See the ALt with the SCANGAUGEII and the Batterys

A load test for Batterys is Better But You Can also get a 4-5 Dollar Battery Acid Hydro Tester and test each Battery Cell they work Great Honestly

My Batterys Looked Good as far as Volts BUT Crank was Little weak Couldnt tell hardly But the FICM Struggled and ran rough for first minute

Weak Batterys and or ALternator is a FICM Killer
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 04:43 PM
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I got the FICM back today from Ed, still no start. It sounds like it 's getting close to starting sound like it's firing. Man I was all excited about tha atlas 40 in all but my bubble burst.

What should I do now besides take to the ford house,hehehe
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 04:53 PM
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unplug the ICP sensor and try

other than that unless you get a Gauge then Ford is the other option
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 06:10 PM
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Wow, thought that FICM would fix it for sure. . 11v was definitely bad.
If you take it to Ford be sure to tell them not to "flash" it. A software update will overwrite your Atlas40 software.
If you have a smart phone it's possible to use it for gauges with no codes to put in. If you do the Scangauge we'd be happy to help you figure it out. It really ain't as bad as it sounds.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 11:44 AM
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Men and boys ,this is a tale of a friend that came to my house with this lap top, with hands that wrapped around mine, that were as big as a baseball mit with arms to match. He told me that my cam sensor was out. He proceeded to pull his watch off and roll his sleeves up, and with no more than pull the air filter off and the big pipe off to the right of the engine, reach down under the depths of the unknown and pulled the cam sensor out. This man must have eye-***** on the end of his fingers. While we were there he installed the blue spring. Now with the Atlas-40 and blue spring that truck runs like a scaled dog, I would highly recommend it.

Oh my friend is no other than FTEs own Toreador Diesel !, I call him,

The Master

So guys it can be done without pulling the engine apart I am a witness, can I get a Amen! And yes I am getting a scan gauge with in the next two weeks.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 12:18 PM
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Glad you got it going! Sound like you had some big help!
 
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