no spark
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 5
From: Near St. Joseph,MO
no spark
Ok, yesterday driving home, truck died then fired back up by itself while coasting to a stop, then died again not to return. Towed the truck home, swapped the ignition switch (was having issues with truck cranking nonstop before, solenoid is good). Doing that fixed it. Drove the truck all day with no issues, other than my starter grinding bad from one bolt backing out. Bought a new starter, just installed it and now the truck won't start. ALL I did was disconnect the neg and swap the starter, nothing more. I checked and am getting no spark. Any guesses as to why disconnecting the bat made it not get spark now? I swapped the brain, no change., wiggled all wires, no change. I'm about tired of fighting with it already.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
It's unlikely that removing the cable actually did anything - probably just coincidence.
Disconnect the distributor, and measure the resistance between the ORANGE and PURPLE wires coming from the distributor. It should be between 400 and 700 ohms. Neither wire should have continuity with the BLACK wire.
Disconnect the distributor, and measure the resistance between the ORANGE and PURPLE wires coming from the distributor. It should be between 400 and 700 ohms. Neither wire should have continuity with the BLACK wire.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,922
Likes: 152
Have you checked for voltage with a multi meter in the start position on the solenoids post for the ignition ? I'm still not convinced that the solenoid isn't bad. Sticking like that is usually the solienoid and it can just do it intermittenly.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
An intermittent issue like this most often points to the ignition module or the pickup in the distributor. The test I outlined checks the latter. If it measures on the edge of the limits I showed you, then that may be a clue that it's on the edge of failure. However, that's not always the case - when it's cooled down it can measure out fine, but have some other issue that only shows up during operation.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
What does your meter say if you simply touch the two probes together?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Near St. Joseph,MO
If I touch them together, it goes to zero. starts with a 1 on the screen, when I touch between any of the three prongs, I get no change from 1.
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
If the truck wasn't running, then I would say that your pickup module in the distributor is blown and needs to be replaced. However, the fact that you're reading open-circuit (that's what the "1" means) with the truck actually running can only mean that you're not getting good enough contact in the pigtail. You are measuring on the distributor side, not the connector coming from the truck, correct? I can't remember which side has male contacts. The female connector is tough to make a reading on because the contacts are deep in the connector.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,742
Likes: 5
From: Near St. Joseph,MO
yes, measuring dist side, with truck OFF. Truck ran fine all day, after unhooking it to test it, now it won't start again. I tried another dist I had with the same test, and it tests around 540. Unfortunately, that dist has a broken housing. 
Guess I'll go buy one. On the bright side, I've got $20 on my card for autozone and the dist is only like 45. Dark side, the last two dists I've removed on these trucks broke while removing thanks to the corrosion.
Guess I'll go buy one. On the bright side, I've got $20 on my card for autozone and the dist is only like 45. Dark side, the last two dists I've removed on these trucks broke while removing thanks to the corrosion.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,038
Likes: 4
From: South west Idaho
yes, measuring dist side, with truck OFF. Truck ran fine all day, after unhooking it to test it, now it won't start again. I tried another dist I had with the same test, and it tests around 540. Unfortunately, that dist has a broken housing. Guess I'll go buy one. On the bright side, I've got $20 on my card for autozone and the dist is only like 45. Dark side, the last two dists I've removed on these trucks broke while removing thanks to the corrosion.
Guess I'll go buy one. On the bright side, I've got $20 on my card for autozone and the dist is only like 45. Dark side, the last two dists I've removed on these trucks broke while removing thanks to the corrosion.I use a brake wheel cylinder hone to smooth the dist. hole with or something to clean it up with.
Then i use some no seize lube and haven't had any more problems with future removals.
The last rebuilt dist. i installed was out of round in that area , don't now why, but i had to use a file to reshape it before i istalled it.
I could make it go it but it was really hard to turn so i knew it would get stuck for sure.
Just a suggestion .
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
I would agree with your logic at this point. If the issue is intermittent, your pickup module measured open-circuit when you tested it, and you've verified that your measurement method is good on another setup, then I would replace the pickup module regardless.
You can replace the module itself without replacing the entire distributor, I'm not sure how much cheaper it is though (if at all). You have to pull off the veined armature to free the pickup module which can take some effort. That route may be less hassle if your distributor shaft is fused to the block.
You can replace the module itself without replacing the entire distributor, I'm not sure how much cheaper it is though (if at all). You have to pull off the veined armature to free the pickup module which can take some effort. That route may be less hassle if your distributor shaft is fused to the block.
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