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my truck is a 1976 Ford f100 engine swapped to a 1978 351m with a motorcraft 2150 2 barrel carburetor.
i just finished cleaning it, rebuilding it, and adjusting it to specification (the dry float level, the pump stroke, choke valve pulldown, fast idle cam linkage, automatic choke, choke unloader, and slow idle).
when i step on the gas, the engine acts like it dies for less than a second, and then acts normal. when the engine is cold its even worse; sometimes it shuts off! but its only in a certain area of the pedal that it does it which is just at the beginning... after that it runs very smooth! help please?
If you look down the throat of the carburetor with the engine off and you pull open the throttle, do you see two good streams of gas shoot onto the venturi's?
If you look down the throat of the carburetor with the engine off and you pull open the throttle, do you see two good streams of gas shoot onto the venturi's?
check to make sure you have the linkage on the front installed correctly. Throttle should activate the pump lever on the front. If that is ok, I would remove the pump lever/cover assembly from the front of the carb and make sure the diaphram is installed correctly/ not torn. There should also be a little rubber check valve in the front of the carb under the cover and diaphram.
I'm sure you have figured out that this is not desired behavior
For whatever reason, the accelerator pump is not actuating. This causes a lean condition during a sudden change in throttle position because fuel is heavier than air per unit volume. This goes away after a brief moment once the fuel catches up.
The following pieces are necessary for the accelerator pump to function, many of which are described above:
* Linkage on the outside
* Pump diaphragm
* Pump spring (under the diaphragm)
* Umbrella check valve (under the spring)
* Check ball (inside the throttle body)
* Check weight (inside the throttle body)
Missing any of these pieces will cause the behavior you describe. Go through and check your work again.
turns out the umbrella check valve was torn... i am going to try to look for it by itself online since i dont want to pay another 30 dollars just for that piece! thanks guys
turns out the umbrella check valve was torn... i am going to try to look for it by itself online since i dont want to pay another 30 dollars just for that piece! thanks guys
Most autoparts stores should have the check valve...by itself, as it's the same for 1963/74 2100 & 1975/79 2150 series 2V carbs / The accelerator pump is not the same.
I would be curious to know if you find it, as I've never seen it sold individually at a parts store (the only time it gets replaced is during a carburetor rebuild). I do see Holley ones on Summit that look the same, no idea if they are the same size: Search Results for umbrella check valve - SummitRacing.com
The next time you install it, be sure to lubricate the "shaft" with WD-40 so that it pulls through more easily.
Most autoparts stores should have the check valve...by itself, as it's the same for 1963/74 2100 & 1975/79 2150 series 2V carbs / The accelerator pump is not the same.
Thanks for the numbers and the idea to look for the parts separately, Bill. :)
Alvin in AZ
ps- Three of each of these...
a) pump diaphragm
b) umbrella valve
c) power valve
...should do me for a lifetime since they are the only things I've found that
actually wear out. I soak the new gaskets in silicone spray and/or silicone
grease. Hmm... anti-seize would work too I betcha. ;)
pps- http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/choke1.jpg
dohn need no steen keen choke
Thanks for the numbers and the idea to look for the parts separately, Bill.
Alvin in AZ
i saw that sight, but it comes out to 8 dollars with the "discount" shipping and handling... i just dont see why they would charge shipping and handling for a piece that doesnt even weigh a gram... and oreilly sells the rebuild kit for 16...