Is my choke working properly?
#1
Is my choke working properly?
I finally get a chance to work on my junk today...
1979 F150, 351M with a rebuilt 2150 carb. The choke is connected to the metal tube from the intake manifold, and has a clip for a heater hose, but the heater hose is NOT in the clip. There are no electrical connections.
When the engine is cold, I press the pedal to the floor once and crank the engine and it fires right up and the high idle works fine. It runs smooth and never dies. But, if I touch the pedal after it's started, even if it's just a couple seconds, the fast idle will turn off and it will just idle slow.
Also, the choke flap isn't opening up all the way after it's warm. Pic http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0-13-05013.jpg
After the engine is warm it will "ping" while accelerating somewhat fast or climbing a hill.
There is a dead spot if I try to accelerate too fast. Someone told me to check the accelerator pump, so I'll do that today.
Does my choke need adjusted? I found a choke adjustment procedure by fmc400 while searching, but my engine is already warm, so I'll try it some other time.
1979 F150, 351M with a rebuilt 2150 carb. The choke is connected to the metal tube from the intake manifold, and has a clip for a heater hose, but the heater hose is NOT in the clip. There are no electrical connections.
When the engine is cold, I press the pedal to the floor once and crank the engine and it fires right up and the high idle works fine. It runs smooth and never dies. But, if I touch the pedal after it's started, even if it's just a couple seconds, the fast idle will turn off and it will just idle slow.
Also, the choke flap isn't opening up all the way after it's warm. Pic http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0-13-05013.jpg
After the engine is warm it will "ping" while accelerating somewhat fast or climbing a hill.
There is a dead spot if I try to accelerate too fast. Someone told me to check the accelerator pump, so I'll do that today.
Does my choke need adjusted? I found a choke adjustment procedure by fmc400 while searching, but my engine is already warm, so I'll try it some other time.
Set the choke when the motor is cold. Loosen the three retaining screws around the black choke housing on the passenger side of the carb. Rotate it towards the rear of the truck 90 degrees, then towards the front until the choke plate on top starts to open, then rotate it towards the back again. Stop when the little notch on the top of the black housing matches the little correct notch on the metal choke base. To find out which notch to land on look on your engine decal or Chiltons (rich notches are towards the rear, lean notches are towards the front). Then screw the three screws back in. Your choke should be shut with a bit of tension holding it shut.
#2
Sorry but I have to disagree a little. The picture shows that the choke is not opening all the way to the vertical position. I would suggest that if setting the choke cold, you should turn the choke housing until it is just nearly closed. Leave a 1/16" gap. Then when the engine is warm, check to see if the choke plate is fully vertical.
As to the fast idle: There is a link from the choke butterfly to the 'fast idle cam.' It has it's own adjustment screw. The cam part has steps to hold different speeds which you can select by bending the link. Fine tune it with the adjusting screw so that you maintain fast idle so that the engine doesn't bog when cold.
Your carb has both an accelerator pump and a power valve. The accelerator pump shoots in jets of gas as you mash down on the pedal. You should be able to see this in action looking down into the carb. (Just do it once with the engine off.) The power valve is an enrichment circuit that works when accellerating. One or both of these may have a problem causing it to bog from being too lean. If it has been backfiring through the carb it may have blown out the power valve.
As to the fast idle: There is a link from the choke butterfly to the 'fast idle cam.' It has it's own adjustment screw. The cam part has steps to hold different speeds which you can select by bending the link. Fine tune it with the adjusting screw so that you maintain fast idle so that the engine doesn't bog when cold.
Your carb has both an accelerator pump and a power valve. The accelerator pump shoots in jets of gas as you mash down on the pedal. You should be able to see this in action looking down into the carb. (Just do it once with the engine off.) The power valve is an enrichment circuit that works when accellerating. One or both of these may have a problem causing it to bog from being too lean. If it has been backfiring through the carb it may have blown out the power valve.
#3
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