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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 03:45 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by grec-o-face
I attempted to put a 90 on the top, but it looked really crappy. Just looked like a mess of plumbing pipes & fittings hodge-podged together. If I could have found a decent looking 90 (like an Earls fitting, or something similar) I would've used it.

Also, I didn't want to pay for a valve, so I just pinch the hose with some pinch off pliers when I'm changing the filter.
Thanks. I'll also add removing the outlet valve as an option.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #32  
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Just to close the loop on this- I removed the ball valve at the filter outlet and now there is no contact between the filter outlet hose and big hose. "Problem" solved!
 
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 10:26 PM
  #33  
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Thought I'd post a pic of my coolant filter installed per the Guzzle plan. I made my brackets out of a flat piece of aluminum, and an aluminum angle. The hardware is stainless, just because. The blue hose is McMaster-Carr's 5133K22 super-duper heater hose, very nice stuff, but $4 a foot.

I'm using the Wix 24070 plain (non-charged) filter.

Hat tip to Guzzle for paving the way.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 10:31 PM
  #34  
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Kel. You got the Fleetfilter route?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 10:42 PM
  #35  
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Uh, not sure if that crosses directly to a Fleet Filter model. I bought the base as a Wix part. The Fleet Filter may be identical, but I do not know. I don't think "Wix" is cast into it anywhere. I believe the Wix part number is 24019, I can double-check that if you want.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 08:31 AM
  #36  
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gotta stock up for next year...

Wix 24070 & Napa 4070 Coolant Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store

Wix 24019 & Napa 4019 Base: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
 
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 08:43 AM
  #37  
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Gotta say, it's a pretty cool mod. I changed my oil filter today, and planned on changing the coolant filter too (first one, been on 3 weeks, maybe 600 miles). It was still flowing into the bottle, so I "almost" didn't change it, but since they were cheap and it was the first one, I decided to go for it anyway.

It went from the return stream filling half of the degas bottle inlet with the old filter, to full-flow through the inlet with the new filter, so there was definitely some restriction already.

I've read that that's how it goes, the first filter loads up pretty quickly. I'm going to cut it apart this week to see what it caught. I'll post photos if it's dramatic.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #38  
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ya, post some pics. i would've when replacing mine, but can not load pics... If your digging this coolant by-pass, check this out...SpringerPop and also Wood-N-Things are ones' to pat on back, but ihad to have it, plus it extended my oil changes.

SpringerPop's Lube Bypass Filter

Heck, check'em all out...

SpringerPop's F-350

Depending on "base" you get, it gives you the ports for gauges down the road.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 07:29 PM
  #39  
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ENGINE WARM UP

WITH THE COOLANT FILTER CICRULATING FROM BELOW THE THERMOSTAT THROUGH FILTER TO DEGAS BOTTLE. HAS ANYONE FOUND A LONGER WARM UP TIME WITH THE COOLANT MOVING THROUGH THE RADIATOR.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 07:42 PM
  #40  
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The water pump moves an astronomical volume of fluid. The filter takes so little at a time I don't think you could ever see a difference.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 07:58 PM
  #41  
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BYPASS

AS LONG AS WATER IS MOVING THROUGH THE BLOCK AND RADIATOR IT WILL NOT BE ABSORBING AS MUCH HEAT AS WHEN THE THERMOSTAT HAS NOT OPENED YET. BYPASSING ACTS AS IF THE STAT IS PARTAILLY OPEN
 
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 08:02 PM
  #42  
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It's such a small diameter (bypass) hose. It's not something I'm worried about here in the Boston area.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 10:30 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by johnsjsj
WITH THE COOLANT FILTER CICRULATING FROM BELOW THE THERMOSTAT THROUGH FILTER TO DEGAS BOTTLE. HAS ANYONE FOUND A LONGER WARM UP TIME WITH THE COOLANT MOVING THROUGH THE RADIATOR.
SURE DID, JOHN. THOUGHT MY SENSOR WAS TWEEKED, SO REPLACED WITH NEW, AND SAME READING. FLOW THRU FILTER INTO DEGAS IS A STEADY ONE TOO...
 
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 11:15 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by johnsjsj
WITH THE COOLANT FILTER CICRULATING FROM BELOW THE THERMOSTAT THROUGH FILTER TO DEGAS BOTTLE. HAS ANYONE FOUND A LONGER WARM UP TIME WITH THE COOLANT MOVING THROUGH THE RADIATOR.
There is a minimal and slight difference in warm up time. A dedicated coolant filter base / filter has a restriction to slow down the flow. This allows better filtering, and better heat transfer. You should make sure the base or filter has a flow restriction built in. For me, it was in the base. If they both have restriction, it will flow at the speed of the most restricted section. Remember, this is a bypass filter, so restriction amount doesn't matter for heating / cooling.

I actually did testing on the heating time to 190 degrees. The time to get to 190 was longer by about 1 minute at idle with the filter valve open. At driving rpms (around town), the warm up time is nearly identical. Tests were conducted with as near identical environmental factors as possible inside a garage, and the same driving route / time of day combination.
 
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