Choosing the ride Limited slip.
#1
Choosing the ride Limited slip.
I posted this in Differential but havne't gotten a response yet just trying ot make a decision and want more info..
Right now i"M rebuilding a rear axle for my f150 and the ford tracklok is hosed and so I"m looking for a replacement
Money for me is a concern but it's more of a matter of time than anything..
Choices are:
track loc
Auburn LSD
or Eaton LSD
I am currently running with 2.47 Gears 8.8 rear and SR0d 1984 300 Six..Tires are 275/60 15's
I have another 8.8 rear with 3.08 and a hosed Trackloc..which is goign into the truck..I"m not planning on doing any major mods to my truck in the near future.
For what I have and the gearing..would I see acceptable performance with the track lock and my setup..or should I just save more and get the auburn..this truck is not goign to be going offroading so a locker is not an option
THanks for any input you all have
Right now i"M rebuilding a rear axle for my f150 and the ford tracklok is hosed and so I"m looking for a replacement
Money for me is a concern but it's more of a matter of time than anything..
Choices are:
track loc
Auburn LSD
or Eaton LSD
I am currently running with 2.47 Gears 8.8 rear and SR0d 1984 300 Six..Tires are 275/60 15's
I have another 8.8 rear with 3.08 and a hosed Trackloc..which is goign into the truck..I"m not planning on doing any major mods to my truck in the near future.
For what I have and the gearing..would I see acceptable performance with the track lock and my setup..or should I just save more and get the auburn..this truck is not goign to be going offroading so a locker is not an option
THanks for any input you all have
#2
Choosing the ride Limited slip.
If just the clutches are bad in the trac-loc, then your best bet is to rebuild it. The rebuild kit is something like $40 from ford, and you don't have to remove the dif from the axle.
Rebuild basic instructions:
- Raise truck on stands, or put axle on stand/bench
- Drain oil and remove cover
- Remove cross-shaft bolt and cross-shaft
- Push axles in, remove C-clips
- Remove "S" spring, then rotate axle to remove spyder gears
- remove side gears and old clutch disks (keep in order)
- soak the new clutch disks in new gear oil for 30 min
- put new clutch disks and steel disks back in the same order as the old ones came out
- put the side gears in, rotate the spyders in and work the "S" spring back in
- put the cross-shaft in, cross-shaft bolt, cover and oil w/ friction additive and have fun with your rebuilt posi...
Getting the spyders and "S" spring back in is a pain, but it can be done. For the "S" spring, a set of needle nosed vise grips will help. You can compress the spring and get it in much easier.
As for the other diff's, I like either the eaton or the trac-loc because they use clutches and are rebuildable. The Auburn is good to, but once it's worn out it's toast.
When replacing the diff you will have to atleast check the gear setup, or you can ruin your gears...
Rebuild basic instructions:
- Raise truck on stands, or put axle on stand/bench
- Drain oil and remove cover
- Remove cross-shaft bolt and cross-shaft
- Push axles in, remove C-clips
- Remove "S" spring, then rotate axle to remove spyder gears
- remove side gears and old clutch disks (keep in order)
- soak the new clutch disks in new gear oil for 30 min
- put new clutch disks and steel disks back in the same order as the old ones came out
- put the side gears in, rotate the spyders in and work the "S" spring back in
- put the cross-shaft in, cross-shaft bolt, cover and oil w/ friction additive and have fun with your rebuilt posi...
Getting the spyders and "S" spring back in is a pain, but it can be done. For the "S" spring, a set of needle nosed vise grips will help. You can compress the spring and get it in much easier.
As for the other diff's, I like either the eaton or the trac-loc because they use clutches and are rebuildable. The Auburn is good to, but once it's worn out it's toast.
When replacing the diff you will have to atleast check the gear setup, or you can ruin your gears...
#3
Choosing the ride Limited slip.
Thanks for the reply..well the carrier is actualy damaged..probably from no fluid there was a pinion leak on this axle...and since i had trouble getting the pinion shaft out..well I had to cut the carrier....
Yeah..i'm more and more thinking that track loc will be be$t for me. and in the future i can save for the eaton unit . I will be setting the rear up myself..not too afraid of doing it myself and will be investing in all the proper tools to do the setup properly
Thanks for the info
Yeah..i'm more and more thinking that track loc will be be$t for me. and in the future i can save for the eaton unit . I will be setting the rear up myself..not too afraid of doing it myself and will be investing in all the proper tools to do the setup properly
Thanks for the info
#4
Choosing the ride Limited slip.
Save the old crush sleeve from the old rear, you can use this one to do some of the initial setup of the rear with. The crush sleeve is what sets the pinion pre-load. If you overshoot and make it too tight, you'll have to use a new cruch sleeve and start over. Don't just back off the pinion nut. Also you can pre-crush the sleeve in a press part of the way before you put it in. Use the old one as a guide. You just need to get it started, don't try and go all the way with it. This will make it easier once it's in to finish setting the pre-load.
Also you can make setup bearings for the axle. Get a second set and have the ID honed out so there is just the slightest press fit on them. A machine shop can do this, or you can use a wheel cyl hone, but you'll need a couple sets of stones for it. You will need to put the bearings on and off a few times to get it right. The setup bearings make it easier because you don't need a press. Once you have everything setup right, press the real bearing on. The setup bearings will work on any 8.8 rear, so if you have the other tools, you could do side jobs on mustangs, trucks and such...
Also you can make setup bearings for the axle. Get a second set and have the ID honed out so there is just the slightest press fit on them. A machine shop can do this, or you can use a wheel cyl hone, but you'll need a couple sets of stones for it. You will need to put the bearings on and off a few times to get it right. The setup bearings make it easier because you don't need a press. Once you have everything setup right, press the real bearing on. The setup bearings will work on any 8.8 rear, so if you have the other tools, you could do side jobs on mustangs, trucks and such...
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Alec94F150XL
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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07-25-2011 03:53 PM