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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

removing the ipr

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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 09:48 AM
  #46  
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just checked it its full now from cranking
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 10:18 AM
  #47  
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Wink

I was confused because the one I mentioned is apart and is oval and wider (you can see in the upper part of the first pic: orange color and in the third pic), the other are two small, I think they goes together in the distal part of the rod of the IPR and the bigger goes over the thread, you can see them in the pic, one of the smaller is green and the other is black (looks like junk there). I could be wrong, if so, please somebody correct me.

 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 10:20 AM
  #48  
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by kupiec20
just checked it its full now from cranking
Did you tight the tiny nut?

 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 10:28 AM
  #49  
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yup tin is tight
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #50  
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This has been an interesting post on removing the IPR, I'm thinking maybe even I could do it, mine is not bad yet but it should be good for pm and not very expensive. When I was reading over the thread I noticed nobody suggested using penetrating oil on the reservoir plug, it seems to me it would be very effective. I remember when I drained my reservoir doing injectors the plug was very tight and I also was very concerned about the possibility of having problems, I didn't use penetrating oil but on hind sight I should have. Oh ya I also sucked out the dirty oil in the reservoir .
Here is a FTE link that may be useful on penetrating oil.

Best Penetrating Oil Test, surprise winner - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 12:33 PM
  #51  
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Good call!

Heat works really well on that plug too. The issue is that the metals are dissimilar and they tend to fuse together (steel plug, aluminum reservoir)...
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 01:03 PM
  #52  
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ok still no start after changing IPR orings and CPS.
the motor wants to turn over but its not doing so.
i did notice while cranking the tack jumps up in rpms.... no idea, really
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 01:27 PM
  #53  
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Any smoke from the tail pipe?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 01:31 PM
  #54  
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How long have you been cranking? Any smoke out the tail pipe?

You want to be cautious here to let the starter cool down sufficiently so you don't burn it up, but once you have had the HPO system open, it can take a while to get the air out of the system sufficiently to let it start. You may need to crank it for a while to get it to pop off the first time. Try cranking it for 20 seconds or so, then letting it cool off for a couple minutes, then go another 20 seconds, etc.

Make sure you're not running the batteries down so far that the voltage dips too low to let the injectors fire either. You have to maintain 10.5V while cranking or the IDM won't have enough power to fire the injectors.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 04:39 PM
  #55  
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ok after changing the oring i still got a no start. i was getting smoke out the pipe. so i changed the CPS and i now have a bouncing tac and NO smoke coming out.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 08:41 PM
  #56  
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How long have you been cranking?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 08:56 PM
  #57  
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10 secs then stop....wait then try again. 2 weeks and cant get her started..
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 09:10 PM
  #58  
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Have you checked the idm for water ?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 09:15 PM
  #59  
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2 weeks? Didn't this thread just start a few days ago?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 11:34 PM
  #60  
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When you buy a new house Todd, time flies! LOL
 
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