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Dumb question... I have always done my own fluid changed in the past. I don't have the time now and need the coolant flushed, diffs and trans. I may do some but don't really want to mess with the coolant. In my experience, the dealer does a crappy job. Last time I had my trans done as I was short of time, they just emptied the pan. Left all the fluid in the torque converter! I told the I wanted a complete flush. When I asked after, the service manager said they don't flush because it can cause problems. I didn't want a power flush. Just put a hose on the inlet run out the fluid while adding more and running it through the gears. Very easy right. In fact I even had an external trans filter installed that had a nipple for the hose, flip the bypass lever and that's it, didn't even have to disconnect the inlet! Even if they would have done a power flush, I had the filter to catch any crap. I re-did it myself the next day.
Anyway, I may add a trans filter like I had before. I assume the Torqueshift is similar to the 4R100 trans in terms of installing a filter and changing fluid? I guess the priority right now is the coolant and if I don't do it the trans. I think the diffs are pretty easy right? I need to do some more reading.
So if I want to avoid the dealer, a radiator shop might be my best bet for a good coolant flush? I believe it has the Ford Gold right now, thought about switching to EC-1. That would be alright with a good flush right? I don't want to do a chemical flush as the bulletproof oil cooler is in and I understand there's a chance of getting crud in the oil cooler with the chemical flush. Sorry to ramble, trying to do too much at once!
Differentials and transfer case are very easy. Don't confuse easy with quick though. There are no gaskets so you need to clean up the old Permatex and be crafty when applying the new.
I don't know why a good radiator shop couldn't do your flush as well. There is the method of Ford cleaner, distilled water, etc. This is what I did and it took me 1/2 day to go through the process.
The whole mindeset of never flush applies to the 4R100 tranny. And I've seen this in real life with friends that flushed, and paid the price. Know on some 200k+ mile trucks that never flushed and are fine. But Torkshift is different. It's all electronic with solenoids, and there are plenty of stories around proper maintenance. There's a lot of debate around how it should be done. But the bottom line is, fluid doesn't flow unless it's at operating temp, so pushing heated fluid into the trans while it's running seems to be the way. Given the required machinery...this is where you're tied to the dealer. My dealer did my flush, changed the external filter with a new one for about $175.
Use my radiator method, it works extremely well and kinda fun. Draining the pan and making excuses is one of the biggest rip offs out there, it only drains about a quarter of the fluid. It makes me mad to think about it and I almost got in a fight with the shop owner over that one time They are hoping you won't know any better and many don't
Differentials and transfer case are very easy. Don't confuse easy with quick though. There are no gaskets so you need to clean up the old Permatex and be crafty when applying the new.
I don't know why a good radiator shop couldn't do your flush as well. There is the method of Ford cleaner, distilled water, etc. This is what I did and it took me 1/2 day to go through the process.
The whole mindeset of never flush applies to the 4R100 tranny. And I've seen this in real life with friends that flushed, and paid the price. Know on some 200k+ mile trucks that never flushed and are fine. But Torkshift is different. It's all electronic with solenoids, and there are plenty of stories around proper maintenance. There's a lot of debate around how it should be done. But the bottom line is, fluid doesn't flow unless it's at operating temp, so pushing heated fluid into the trans while it's running seems to be the way. Given the required machinery...this is where you're tied to the dealer. My dealer did my flush, changed the external filter with a new one for about $175.
Can't agree with you there and many in here won't either.
Differentials and transfer case are very easy. Don't confuse easy with quick though. There are no gaskets so you need to clean up the old Permatex and be crafty when applying the new.
I don't know why a good radiator shop couldn't do your flush as well. There is the method of Ford cleaner, distilled water, etc. This is what I did and it took me 1/2 day to go through the process.
The whole mindeset of never flush applies to the 4R100 tranny. And I've seen this in real life with friends that flushed, and paid the price. Know on some 200k+ mile trucks that never flushed and are fine. But Torkshift is different. It's all electronic with solenoids, and there are plenty of stories around proper maintenance. There's a lot of debate around how it should be done. But the bottom line is, fluid doesn't flow unless it's at operating temp, so pushing heated fluid into the trans while it's running seems to be the way. Given the required machinery...this is where you're tied to the dealer. My dealer did my flush, changed the external filter with a new one for about $175.
This is how I used to change my 4R100 Works like a charm and no danger. Just running the old fluid out while adding the same amount in increments until you see fresh fluid at the return line. It gets all the fluid out of the valve body and torque converter. I'll do some checking on the Torqshift.
The whole mindeset of never flush applies to the 4R100 tranny. And I've seen this in real life with friends that flushed, and paid the price. Know on some 200k+ mile trucks that never flushed and are fine. But Torkshift is different.
Old fluid kills transmissions, not the act of flushing the old fluid out.
This is how I used to change my 4R100 Works like a charm and no danger. Just running the old fluid out while adding the same amount in increments until you see fresh fluid at the return line. It gets all the fluid out of the valve body and torque converter. I'll do some checking on the Torqshift.
It won't work on a TorqShift unless the transmission is kept above 170°F the entire time. That means the trans has to be warmer than that to start, and the fluid going in has to be warmer, too. Handling hot ATF like that is not only not fun, it is dangerous. I won't do it myself, I recommend you don't, also.
It requires a heated flush machine to do the job. This is not a DIY type job.
Can't agree with you there and many in here won't either.
Yeah, I don't want to ignite that debate here...trust me. And I think the approach is b.s. I firmly believe in Crazy001's statement as well. But, that was the thought pattern around that tranny. What many didn't get was that a failure 2k miles after flushing is quite diffferent from one 12k miles after...on a unit with 150k+
It won't work on a TorqShift unless the transmission is kept above 170°F the entire time. That means the trans has to be warmer than that to start, and the fluid going in has to be warmer, too. Handling hot ATF like that is not only not fun, it is dangerous. I won't do it myself, I recommend you don't, also.
It requires a heated flush machine to do the job. This is not a DIY type job.
Thanks,
I wasn't planning on DIY or using this method on the Torqshift, just stating how I did it on my 4R100 in regards to another post.
Thanks again,
Steve
Yeah, I don't want to ignite that debate here...trust me. And I think the approach is b.s. I firmly believe in Crazy001's statement as well. But, that was the thought pattern around that tranny. What many didn't get was that a failure 2k miles after flushing is quite diffferent from one 12k miles after...on a unit with 150k+
Many, including Mark will attest that a failure after 2k mi of changing would have happened anyway. The debate has already been hashed out a few times.
Mark, correct me if I'm wrong, but the Torqshift actually has it's own external and internal filter.
The external filter is located near the front of the vehicle on the passenger side. You'll need an impact to get it off, but make sure and torque it to the proper specs when re-installing.
Srmastertech on youtube does a great job demonstrating the coolant flush procedure on the 6.0.
As for the trans, take it to the dealer and let them do it. Per Mark, it's not as simple as the 7.3 and requires a heated flush to be done properly.
Shame you dont live close by, I would've glady helped you with these maintenance items, if not just done them for you to save you time and money. (except the trans of course)