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Yesterday I called a few dealerships to inquire about getting my trans flushed. I got prices from 149-269. I started asking very specific questions after a few. It seems none change the external filter. What will it cost me to buy one and how hard is it? I also asked whether their flush machine heats the fluid as I understand that is important. A couple said the tech will let the truck run until the trans gets hot then immediately flush it. I can't see that working as my truck takes 20 min of freeway driving to reach 150*. Should I be concerned that none of the dealers seem to know what they are doing. Is there such a machine at the dealer that heats the trans fluid so all the fluid is exchanged???is this necessary? I really want to get it done this week, but I want the job done right. I hate letting other people work on my truck, but I have to in this case. Help would be greatly appreciated.
The external filter is easy to change, look in the Tech Folder as I think there is a porocedure in it. I had a link to an excelent tranny flush procedure from another site but can't seem to find it right now. You more or less add fluid while idling the truck with the line disconnected and it pumps out the torque converter and everything so you end up with all the fluid replaced. I bought two cases of Mercon SP and had two quarts left when I was done. I would make sure that whoever does yours uses SP and not Mercon V, it was around $100 just for the fluid as I recall, though it was a while ago. I did it when I installed the Mag-Hytec tranny pan and Dieselsite tranny filter. Now I have a valve installed for the next flush so it will be a lot easier.
Another procedure that works for many owners is draining the trans pan of its 8 quarts + and adding new Mercon SP or Mercon LV every other motor oil change (10,000) The trans filter is housed in a canister close to the radiator on the passanger side. Just remember when you unloosen the canister you use a fast torque motion on the wrench because the canister bracket tends to flex.
Another procedure that works for many owners is draining the trans pan of its 8 quarts + and adding new Mercon SP or Mercon LV every other motor oil change (10,000) The trans filter is housed in a canister close to the radiator on the passanger side. Just remember when you unloosen the canister you use a fast torque motion on the wrench because the canister bracket tends to flex.
Or use an impact wrench set at the lowest setting and give it one short burst. Works like a champ.
Go to DieselFiltersOnline.com to find out the price of the filter. Get the NTZ filter vice the Motorcraft one as NTZ is the filter OEM and Motorcraft just repackages it. Also, the NTZ filter comes with the O-ring and the Motorcraft one does not. Even with the O-ring, the NTZ filter is less in price.
I started asking very specific questions after a few. It seems none change the external filter.
You may have a couple of issues with dealers quoting the flush. The first is, that you spoke with a Service Advisor. He is a glorified clerk, and cannot be expected to know how all the different procedures are done. I would pick the dealer that I trusted the most, and then drop in and ask to speak with the tech who would do the work. They either have the heated machine, or they don't. The second issue is that some of these dealers have a Quick Lane lube department, and those have been known to cut corners with the equipment and even with not using the correct filters. They try to compete with the Jiffy Lube ilk, and it shows in their product. The point is, you won't learn these things by calling around.
I don't believe there is a procedure you can do in your driveway that will properly flush the Torqshift. You may feel better, but you didn't get all the fluid out.
The drain and fill, along with increased frequency, is about as good as it gets for DIY. You should have an impact wrench to remove the filter.
Incidentally, the fluid now is Mercon LV, which has replaced SP.
Is there such a machine at the dealer that heats the trans fluid so all the fluid is exchanged???
Jay
Yes, there is such a thing as a heated flush machine. My dealer knew exactly what I was talking about when I first inquired about one and actually showed it to me. Your best bet is to find a dealer that has a separate truck maintenance shop. These guys only work on F250 and up trucks and are significantly more knowledgeble this particular product line vice those that work on whatever comes in the door.
Just for reference, the dealer here in Austin flushed mine and replaced the filter for right at $250 out the door. I would have liked to do it myself, but didn't have time or energy and it needed to be done. Seemed like a fair deal to me.
This just proves my point that the service advisers have no clue. I guess I will drop in and ask to speak with the actual tech who will perform the service. When I asked about the heated machine, a few paused and then said...uhhh ya ya that's what we do. Not real convincing.
You may have a couple of issues with dealers quoting the flush. The first is, that you spoke with a Service Advisor. He is a glorified clerk, and cannot be expected to know how all the different procedures are done. I would pick the dealer that I trusted the most, and then drop in and ask to speak with the tech who would do the work. They either have the heated machine, or they don't. The second issue is that some of these dealers have a Quick Lane lube department, and those have been known to cut corners with the equipment and even with not using the correct filters. They try to compete with the Jiffy Lube ilk, and it shows in their product. The point is, you won't learn these things by calling around.
I don't believe there is a procedure you can do in your driveway that will properly flush the Torqshift. You may feel better, but you didn't get all the fluid out.
The drain and fill, along with increased frequency, is about as good as it gets for DIY. You should have an impact wrench to remove the filter.
Incidentally, the fluid now is Mercon LV, which has replaced SP.
The procedure I used was written to replace all of the fluid in the entire system. As I recall, you disconnected the line going to the external filter and used a catch basin to collect the old fluid while adding at the same time. The torque converter pumped it out as you kept adding new fluid so that none of the old fluid stayed in the system. I bought two cases(24 quarts) of Mercon SP and had two quarts left when done and had a couple gallons of old fluid in the large yellow(5 gallon I think) oil change drain pan I used. I'll have to dig a bit to see if I can find that write-up. When I find it I'll post a link. This is something you can do yourself and know for sure exactly what was done...
OK, I found the post with the link to the procedure. Unfortunately, as the last post states, the procedure linked in that post does not come up completely any more. Bearhunter did a great job of writing the procedure with pics, but it's just not coming up completely. I don't know if anyone can find the whole thing or another procedure, but it was there...
The hard part is getting the trans hot, he calls for at least 180°F. If the internal thermostat cools while you're running this procedure 90% of the old ATF will go to the pan to mix with the new ATF.
The hard part is getting the trans hot, he calls for at least 180°F. If the internal thermostat cools while you're running this procedure 90% of the old ATF will go to the pan to mix with the new ATF.
The hardest part so far is figuring out what unloosen means!
Yeah, all you're going to do is pour new fluid into the pan, which will mix with old, or be pumped out before it even has a chance to mix. Even if the t-stat opened, you would still be mixing new fluid with old fluid. No way is that a complete fluid change. It's a feel-good flush.