2000 F350 7.3 Took it in Ford today for an oil change, all went well. They tested the "new batteries" and found the starting batt. to only hold 238 cold cranking amps (suppose to have 850) Being that I have alot of hard starts that pull alot of juice from the battery, I'll let them check it out at 90/hr. They said it's a moduel that is suppose to hybernate when truck is off. But its trial and error to find the one thats not cutting off. Is this a bunch of bull chit or lagit?

 

sounds like bullshevick to me simply because there is no "starting battery".
the batteries are hooked up in parallel, so they both are in use at all times. there is no "starting battery" or "electronics battery"

 

* ACHOOW* sorry... I'm allergenic to bullsh** and this thread is full of it.

Where is that benadryl.

 

Either way, it pulls way too much when trying to start. Would a backup camera pull alot when the truck is off?

 

When you try to start the truck, all non-essential accessories are turned off.
A camera wired on all the time could do it I suppose. Mine is wired to ignition power.

 

Mine is wired to the backup circuit. My camera is limited by the hours of use... it won't survive being on all the time because I spend so many hours in the truck per year.

 

If one of your batteries tested bad then buy two new ones and get your truck out of there. If that's the story they told you ,then something sounds really Fishy. As said above, to start with ,there is no starting battery ,they are parralled ,and it's normal for only one battery to fail. I would get my truck out of there fast, but thats just me!

 

How did you wire the camera to ignition power?

 

I would follow Tugly's example and wire it only to the backup lights. I would tap into the power wire at the backup light harness and run it to a relay switch as a "permissive", and run a completely separate power wire (with an inline fuse) to the relay and then to the camera. That way, when your backup lights receive power while your vehicle isin reverse, that gives the relay "permission" to close teh contacts and allow your separate power feed to power up the camera. This minimizes "on time" for your camera to help extend it's life.

Alternatively, you could simply find your ignition wire and do the same thing with the ignition being the "permission" source. In that case, I would run the power supply from the relay to the camera with a dash-mounted switch. That way, you can actually run your camera any time you want to once the truck is running, but also have the opportunity to turn it off to conserve camera life.

 

If batts are both new they should still be in full warranty - Take it back & have them replace the bad one or both

 

Never one, always replace both. The older battery would pull the new one down.

 

I didn't see where anyone mentioned it but if one battery is bad, replace them both.

And tell the shop to pi$$ off. No such thing as a "starting battery" on these trucks.

 

There is a modular that sleeps when the truck is off Leave your headlights on and in 1 hour they will go off same for the interior lights that may be what they are talking about.as for the starting battery they are talking about the first battery in line because on my boat I have 2 batteries wired in the same way and the first battery in line is the 1 that always goes bad first

 

Want to slightly correct something guitarpicr mentioned. Never replace only one battery. Batteries should always be replaced in tandom, exact same make and model, and try to get as close as you can on serial numbers or date of manufacture (if possible).

 

Tapped into the 7 pin. My head unit allows me to switchto the camera view manualy, this way I can see behind me any time.