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Battery Troubles

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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 09:49 AM
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Battery Troubles

OK, have a F350 duelly with a 7.3. I am new to the two battery thing. Everything was fine when we were driving it 3 times a week or more. For about a month, she sat in the garage. I noticed after that, it was not turning over as good as it used to, but I drove it over a 45 minute drive, no stops inbetween.

Tried to start it yesterday, it rolled over, weaker and weaker till it died completely. Tried jumping it off (passenger side battery), no luck not even a roll over. Pulled that battery out, charged it for 2hrs, 12v/6amp battery charger. no rollover, even with a jumper vehicle being used. I bought the truck used, no idea how old the battery is.

Do I buy a new on for the passenger side?

What is up with the driver side battery, all encased in plastic and so forth.

THanks
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 10:15 AM
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There should be a sticker on the battery with the date of purchase. From personal experience with my old '89 7.3, replace both batteries at the same time. It won't take long for 1 weak battery to pull both down. If you still have problems after changing batteries, check your starter.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 11:00 AM
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do they both take the same type of battery?

The sticker was there, but no markings of when
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 11:51 AM
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yes, both batteries are the same. if memory serves correct, they are group 65. you want the largest cold cranking amp batteries you can get, with the minimum CCA rating of 650 cca, preferably you want at least a 750 or 800 CCA battery though.

i use 880 CCA batteries in all my trucks. the next time i need batteries i am going to invest in a set of 1000 CCA mack truck batteries like my dump truck has.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 12:08 PM
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pulled the other battery that was covered with a fancy battery cover. It has 850cca. That date is showing Feb with a number 1 missing, so may be 2011? How long do they last?
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 12:13 PM
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i have had batteries last 7 years, and on the same token only 9 months. it really depends on the power load, and whether the batch of batteries from the manufacturer were any good or not
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 12:44 PM
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Sounds like they may be fairly new. But, first things first. Test the batteries and make sure that is the problem before you start throwing money at it. If it tests OK, then start checking cables and the starter.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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cables look ok, it have been a progressive weaking of the battery after I quit driving a few times a week. It sat the first time for 3 weeks not being moved or started.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 01:44 PM
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Get a battery tester and see what it says under load. Only way to know for sure and almost any parts store will do it for free.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM371
Get a battery tester and see what it says under load. Only way to know for sure and almost any parts store will do it for free.
Ditto, bad ground will present the same way, as will weak connections.

Steve
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 07:24 PM
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Ok, update.....not batteries, but new batteries did allow for the starter to at least try to turn over. So now I have a bad starter also. Oh well, used is used, gotta learn...sometimes the hard way.
 
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by traffic142
Ok, update.....not batteries, but new batteries did allow for the starter to at least try to turn over. So now I have a bad starter also. Oh well, used is used, gotta learn...sometimes the hard way.
How did you establish it is a bad starter?

Steve
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 06:11 AM
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banged on it with a brass hammer, on the second time after the new batteries, it would start to turn over or try too.
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by traffic142
banged on it with a brass hammer, on the second time after the new batteries, it would start to turn over or try too.
That does not tell you starter is bad. You need to know amp draw of starter. I live in a world where nearly half of what I get called to fix needs nothing more than cleaned connections. Banging on the starter with a hammer may free it up, but also may simply create a better connection.

Often folks then change out a part and assume it was the new part when all they did during the installation of a new part is create a better connection. Not saying it is not the starter, just saying at this point you do not know. I would measure the amp draw of the starter as if it truly is stuck or dead, I would expect to see a very high draw.

Steve
 
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 11:23 AM
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I would measure the amp draw of the starter as if it truly is stuck or dead, I would expect to see a very high draw.

Steve[/quote]


Good advice Steve, What would the correct AMP draw bw for this vehicle (approximately)?
 
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