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i have developed an electrical issue in my 88 7.3. the ignition switch is shorted so when i turn the key back far enough to remove it from the ignition, it goes to the ACC. position. I dont have time right now to tear it apart so i was going to just disable the ACC. is there a relay i can pull.
A ignition wireing diagram would be helpful.
The accessory position is a position of the switch that sets certain contacts in the switch. There is no relay involved.
If you think it's the electrical part of the switch, it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes to replace it. It's located under the dash, on top of the column. You can take the 2 bolts loose on the u-bolt that holds the column to the dash, lower it a little bit, and you can see the switch setting on top of the column. Don't lose the pin that comes with the new switch, it puts the switch in the correct position so you can bolt it down without having to fiddle with adjusting it.
your problem could be as simple as the switch having moved against the steering column, or possibly the gear at the tip of the ignition lock cylinder may have jumped a tooth or been installed in the wrong position.
start by trying to adjust it
The lock cylinder just moves a rod. more than likely its the switch on the column. i know mine just went out last weekend and it took me like 15 - 20 mins to change it and its all good now. costs about 20 buxs at the local Napa.
Rob
I know the lock cylinder is worn. It has some issues some days. I have a new cylinder and ignition switch. Ill start with the switch and see how froggy I feal on my day off
how i'm reading this, your switch works fine, its just that the lock isn't in the correct rotational position relative to the switch.
start by loosening the switch from the column and trying to slide it down (forward). that doesn't get far enough, you'll probably need to pop out the lock cylinder, rotate the gear on its tip one tooth against the flat gear it meshes with, and reinstall the lock cylinder. doing this requires you to remove the steering wheel and a couple things in the column (turn signal switch, etc IIRC), then once you see the housing around the lock cylinder you'll see the shiny end of a pin about 3/32" diameter. with the lock in the run position, use a suitable tool to press that pin into the lock. sometimes they're a little stiff, but once thats pressed in the lock is free to slide out, and you'll see the gear thing i was talking about.
having done this, be sure to test it for proper operation before putting everything back together
I know the lock cylinder is worn. It has some issues some days. I have a new cylinder and ignition switch. Ill start with the switch and see how froggy I feal on my day off