Me=1, Turbo=0

There will be a rematch when it goes back in!

So I'm in the middle of an EGR delete and Oil Cooler rebuild.

In comes the Turbo! This is how I did it and my thoughts. I guess you can never have too many perspectives on this monster!

1. Before I even started the project (2 days before) I sprayed the bolts down with PB Blaster. I couldn't get to the one in the back.

2. Disconnected the sensor

3. Disconnected the v-band on the down pipe and popped it loose. Then pry the down-pipe away. This was fairly easy.

4. Disconnected the clamp on the up-pipe. It was stuck to the pipes, so I completely removed the clamp and slid a pry bar along the sides and pried all over the place until it finally came loose.

5. Then it was time for the bolts! Standing in front and looking at the motor I used a 10MM socket and the horizontal ones on the right and left came off pretty easily because I sprayed them with PB Blaster.

6. On to the rear horizontal (closer to the up-pipe). Since I couldn't get it with PB Blaster before I decided to do it then. I took some old 3/8" hose I had lying around and put the PB Blaster in one end and felt around and routed the hose to the other end where the bolt was and let it spray!
- Took a 1/4" ratchet with a 6pt 10mm socket and felt my way around the left side around the up-pipe and put it on the bolt. Didn't have the strength to do it.
- I figured if I could get a little more leverage in that tight space I'd win. I took a deep 19mm 1/2" drive socket and reached around the left side over the down-pipe and slid it over the handle like I was hugging the turbo (its a love hate relationship). Really any socket big enough to slide freely over the handle of the ratchet will do. I slid it on and slid it as far to the end of the ratchet as possible up to the firewall. Then took a deep breath and went for it. It broke loose! I could get the bolt the rest of the way out by hand.

7. Then i took a pry bar and began prying in different locations around the pedestal until the turbo came off of the oil drain tube. Then, Voila, my neighbor came home! I had him help me pry it, roll it forward, and pulled it out toward the passenger side headlight!

I win! We'll see about the rematch!

 

There was a guy on YouTube that got the back bolt using a swivel and an impact.

Not sure he was able to get that done when everyone else has to do the "bear-hug" method.

Josh

 

And Alot of the Rear Horazontal Bolts Strip when a Ratchet is Used

So I take it yours was not Seized like some

The safest way is to use a 6point Box wrench on the rear Horontal bolt

MINE was a PIA BAD so it will never have the rear bolt in the Turbo again


But Glad you got it

 

I'm somewhat surprised a 6 point (like the snap-on) is the suggested route to go when a modern 12 point design grips the sides of the bolt head better.

Josh

 

A 6 point is a Perfict Fit

So how would a 12 point grip it any better???

In my limited experiance a 12 point strips them alot more than any 6point when they are tight/seized

 

it doesnt. truxt me been there doner that. I have so many different 10mm wrench setups its not funny.
when the 6pt fails I use a 17mm extractor, its a little bit of a pain but it is the best tool for the job.

 

not sure if it was or not, or maybe the pb blaster helped. The front two were really easy though. I'm still struggling with some of the exhaust components. I gave up and moved on to the intake and oil cooler. I got that off today and will rebuild the oil cooler and install the egr delete. Then I have to get back to that exhaust to put the replacement pipe that came with the kit on. So far only one nut that I found with no idea as to what it is!

 

post a pic of it and I can tell you

 

Cheezit,

Looking back at it I dont think it was seized, I tried to take a pic but the good ole iphone 3g gave me a rusty blob! It still was kind of a pain.

BUT...not as much of a PITA as the damn exhaust up-pipe!

Finally got that thing on. Couldn't torque it but I got as much on it as I could and everything looks good...so I called it good!

Everything is ready to go back in now. I rebuilt the oil cooler, installed the egr delete and new up pipe and also installed the blue spring upgrade. I also have a coolant filter Ill put on when everything else is on.

So far I've run in to one extra problem. While torquing the top plate on the oil cooler, I snapped the head off of one of the bolts (the smaller of the torx). I couldnt get the broken threaded part out. I was thinking theres not a big chance of it leaking anyways with the other top plate hold down bolts and the filter housing plus pressure shouldnt be too high there.

Normally I would take my time and remove the the plate and get the broken piece out...Im kind of in time crunch now...Im moving across the country and need to go home to see my boy this week and want to get this done. I dont have time to wait for new bolts and my local dealership doesnt have them.

Seems like an arbitrary bolt to me. What do ya'll think? I have found random extra bolts so far on my truck that obviously serve no purpose except CYA for Ford. I found an extra nut on my T-stat housing that wasn't holding anything but the nut beneath it... I was like WTF!

 

Yea im not sure about that either. I dont see you getting around that turbo with a swivel unless you used 19 extensions and came from under the truck at some random place like the firewall with a swivel that could rotate 360 degrees!

Since I have insanely strong finger strength...I was able to do the bear hug method with minimal effort...NOT...HAHA

 

I think that extra nut was meant to hold down the EBP sensor

 

Username Blackhawk8427...

Josh

 

six piont and 6inch ext laying on top of engine right hand around top of turbo to hold ratchet and pull with the left, anti sieze them when you put it back together also put anti sieze on the clamp V channels start the bolts for the turbo but don't tighten them up till you have the clamps on and tightened makes life easier especially for the Y-Pipe side

 

i use a 10mm swivel ratcheting wrench to get mine, although the first time i used a 1/4 drive 6 point with a swivel extension to break it. since then they come easily.
be very sure that the turbo sits flush on the pedestal there is a lip on the rear that held my turbo slightly angled enough to cause me troubles and it took me a while to figure it out the first time i pulled the turbo.

 

Thanks for all the tips everyone! I got the turbo back in! I guess we'll see if its right when I start it after putting all the easy crap back on. To get it in I installed the bolts finger tight, and loosened both the passenger (to up-pipe) and drivers (to y-pipe bolts). Once I did that it sat flush pretty easily. Then I installed the V-band clamps with a little anti-seize. I tried torquing the bands as best I could, but I figured as long as I didnt crank on them and they were nice and tight they should be good if everything is flush.

Its taking me longer than expected to complete. I first wasn't in a rush, but now I am. Working on a condensed class for my masters at the same time is painful! Good thing I'm off from work! Its been wake-up, truck, eat, school, sleep....repeat for the past week. Can't wait to fire it up! Unless its starts giving my crap when I do!