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I was doing some brake work then testing my work locked up the brakes at about 35mph, then it stalled.I started it right back up again.Doesn't it have some kind of inertia(SP) switch?
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Does it repeat or did it happen only once? Other issues before this occurrence?
The reason I ask is, that if you put as much information as possible in front of the eyes reading your post, you are more likely to get feed back.
It did it more than once, no other issues with the the van.It runs great,the only thing I've done lately is change the fuel pump and that's been
three month's ago.I'm trying to give as much info as I can if you need more just ask
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Engine: V6 3.0L 4.0 radiator, mileage is 194,000, maintenance fidelity oil changed every 3,000 miles filters at every oil change tuneup every 10,000 miles. I'm pretty much **** about everything. Vehicle history: I have owned it for 4 years and this does it at panic stops above 35mph. I don't know if it has this problem all the time because I usually do not do panic stops but I had to today and that's when I noticed it.
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Check the inertia switch on my 96 3.0 it's under the right passenger side kick panel. Since it seems like it's deceleration related that's the easiest thing to check first.
Remove the connector from the switch and jumper the 2 terminals with the same gauge wire on the harness and try to stall the vehicle out. If it doesn't stall replace the switch.
You said you changed the fuel pump was it an OEM, aftermarket direct fit (no wire cutting required with either), or did you use a universal one and need to cut the existing wires and crimp connections? Unreliable connections can cause the pump to cut out too.
The majority of consumer grade crimping tools you get at the big box stores are junk and don't provide a proper cold weld that fuses the copper strands together and allows for a reliable crimped connection. A poorly crimped connection may work at first but cause problems down the line.
If the inertia switch checks out I'd check to make sure the pump is receiving power at the time of the stall and that the ground connection from the pump is good as well. If the electrical side checks out I'd check that the pump is keeping the fuel pressure up to manufacturers specs at the fuel rail during the stall with a fuel pressure gauge.
Aside from a fuel delivery issue a sticking IAC valve (not opening when the throttle plate closes during a hard stop) will choke the engine for air and cause it to stall as well.
Thanks krankshaft. The fuel pump was a napa carter OEM direct fit the connections were solid. We'll take off the IAC and clean it and check the inertia switch.
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Check the inertia switch on my 96 3.0 it's under the right passenger side kick panel. Since it seems like it's deceleration related that's the easiest thing to check first.
Remove the connector from the switch and jumper the 2 terminals with the same gauge wire on the harness and try to stall the vehicle out. If it doesn't stall replace the switch.
You said you changed the fuel pump was it an OEM, aftermarket direct fit (no wire cutting required with either), or did you use a universal one and need to cut the existing wires and crimp connections? Unreliable connections can cause the pump to cut out too.
The majority of consumer grade crimping tools you get at the big box stores are junk and don't provide a proper cold weld that fuses the copper strands together and allows for a reliable crimped connection. A poorly crimped connection may work at first but cause problems down the line.
If the inertia switch checks out I'd check to make sure the pump is receiving power at the time of the stall and that the ground connection from the pump is good as well. If the electrical side checks out I'd check that the pump is keeping the fuel pressure up to manufacturers specs at the fuel rail during the stall with a fuel pressure gauge.
Aside from a fuel delivery issue a sticking IAC valve (not opening when the throttle plate closes during a hard stop) will choke the engine for air and cause it to stall as well.
I saw something like this with the early overdrive automatic transmissions that have locking torque converters. If you jam on the brakes hard enough to lock them up, they will stall the engine because the torque converter does not unlock fast enough. This problem should have been taken care of by now with more sophisticated electronics; the TC usually unlocks as soon as you lift your foot off of the gas pedal, and presumably by the time you hit the brakes, there should only be fluid coupling.
Try this: drive up to 35 mph, put the transmission into neutral, then do a hard stop and see if the engine stalls.
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