Help with edelbrock intake install
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hey mate, I see you have finally got a manifold/carb sorted. Good stuff. PCV hose (usually at the oil fill point) goes to the port at the back of the carb, and the the hose from the opposite side rocker cover at the rear of the engine goes to the air cleaner-that gives the block/crankcase a clean supply of air to replace the air sucked through the PCV into the intake vacuum. Did you buy them new, as there should be instructions, yes?
have a look at those links, but basics would be:
Sealant (not too much) at the end corners of the front and rear gaskets. Suggest you use cork, not rubber ones as if you are not so sharp at checking clearances, the rubber ones can be over compressed and will split and then leak-cork a bit more forgiving.
Install the manifold in place and after you have finger tightened all the bolts to ensure they have started, start tightening them from the middle bolt on one side of the manifold, go accross to the other side and then alternate diagonally until you are doing opposite corners-if you know what I mean.
Go up in increments so if the end torque was 30ftlbs for instance, you would do them all at 10, then 20 then finish off at 30.
Again do not use too much sealant as it can come off in blobs into the valley pan and end up blocking oil pumps etc-not good!
Installing the carb is pretty straight forward, but do the bolts up diagonally and in increments again so you dont warp the flange.
Make sure that the throttle linkage isnt sticky for obvious reasons, and then if you are really lucky it may just work without having to fiddle the crap out of it.
Also check before you slam the hood down, that there is enough clearance, but you may be aware of that already.
A trick to check for an intake leak is to use engine start and spray carefully around the base of the carb and intake edges of the manifold.
you must be carefull while doing this as it is highly flammable so it could ignite when in contact with a hot manifold (be unlucky here), or more likely a spark from an HT lead to/from your plugs and coil-watch out!
Whilst doing this, the engine noticeably picks up in revs, you have found a vac leak.
have a look at those links, but basics would be:
Sealant (not too much) at the end corners of the front and rear gaskets. Suggest you use cork, not rubber ones as if you are not so sharp at checking clearances, the rubber ones can be over compressed and will split and then leak-cork a bit more forgiving.
Install the manifold in place and after you have finger tightened all the bolts to ensure they have started, start tightening them from the middle bolt on one side of the manifold, go accross to the other side and then alternate diagonally until you are doing opposite corners-if you know what I mean.
Go up in increments so if the end torque was 30ftlbs for instance, you would do them all at 10, then 20 then finish off at 30.
Again do not use too much sealant as it can come off in blobs into the valley pan and end up blocking oil pumps etc-not good!
Installing the carb is pretty straight forward, but do the bolts up diagonally and in increments again so you dont warp the flange.
Make sure that the throttle linkage isnt sticky for obvious reasons, and then if you are really lucky it may just work without having to fiddle the crap out of it.
Also check before you slam the hood down, that there is enough clearance, but you may be aware of that already.
A trick to check for an intake leak is to use engine start and spray carefully around the base of the carb and intake edges of the manifold.
you must be carefull while doing this as it is highly flammable so it could ignite when in contact with a hot manifold (be unlucky here), or more likely a spark from an HT lead to/from your plugs and coil-watch out!
Whilst doing this, the engine noticeably picks up in revs, you have found a vac leak.
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From: Glenvil Ne
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From: Tanilba bay NSW Australia
Yes, normal temp. Thats why you need to make sure you dont set yourself on fire, but dont go silly with it and it should be alright. big leaks will be pretty obvious, this is for the smaller ones that cause funny problems and is not always necessary.
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From: Glenvil Ne
It is just a pipe plug, I got mine from the local napa but any hardware store should be able to fix you up. I thought it looked like there was one in that bag of hardware you showed, I think it is the gold one in the bag.
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From: Glenvil Ne
Just follow the instructions. I didn't use any end gaskets, I just used a healthy bead of silicone. When I was reading up that seemed to be the way more people did/recommended. I think it is a judgement call. If you use the valley pan style gasket, the instructions with mine said to put sealant around all the ports also, a very small amount, to avoid vacuum leaks. Do you have the little ball stud that the original throttle linkage attaches to? What about a throttle return spring? Those were a couple of things I had to go get when doing mine.
Here is mine. The plan is to just add goodies as I find them on cl/ebay or swap meets, it is just a toy to tinker with and about 4th down on the priority list so it is what it is.
Here is mine. The plan is to just add goodies as I find them on cl/ebay or swap meets, it is just a toy to tinker with and about 4th down on the priority list so it is what it is.
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From: Glenvil Ne
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I'm looking at my truck, and im wondering if im going to have to remove my distributer?
I know my wires and cab will have to be removed for easy clearence, but will i have to yank my whole dist?
It was a mess trying to time my engine months ago...
I know my wires and cab will have to be removed for easy clearence, but will i have to yank my whole dist?
It was a mess trying to time my engine months ago...