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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 07:54 AM
  #1  
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Lightbulb increaded boost

Alright guys, some of yuo may have remembered when i lost my turbo. April, 2011, lost it, get'n on it on the freeway. I believe it was from a lack of install on my part, installing the w.w. Since then, it seems my turbo CAN NOT put out over 16psi and thats with the redline hooked up. Prior to the turbo letting go, i was run'n the 10k mod. Since then, with new/rebuilt turbo, hadn't gave that mod a thought. Well, yesterday, for shiats, i installed the 10k resistor, in the plug. The truck didnt have the "lopy" idle, but throttle response was crisp. Damn, it sounded alive. Went on my way, proceeded to enter the freeway, and i decided to see, what the truck got. to my surpirise, with redline disconnected, she banged to 22psi, and without a miss. I mean, damn needle just poped up to that amount, and seemed that i probably still had some pedal left.

SO, my question is, is this a sign..(not run'n the resistor), that my IPR is bad, ICP, combination of both, HPOP bad....? Thanks.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 12:40 PM
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I dont know anything on this but had a question. Ive seen this a couple times now. Whats the redline do, and why unhook? Are people adding more boost without the use of turbos and chips?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 01:03 PM
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Na, u disconnect off the wg, and plug it to a cac bolt clamp. Easy way to create 4-6psi. Not sure about the cons of doin it, though.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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Interesting. Would be curious to see the cons.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by pin8246
Interesting. Would be curious to see the cons.
Pro's could be slightly increased throttle response, Con's would be an increase in back/drive pressure, that if too much would cause a pressure differential in the turbo between the turbine and compressor side and break the turbo.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
Alright guys, some of yuo may have remembered when i lost my turbo. April, 2011, lost it, get'n on it on the freeway. I believe it was from a lack of install on my part, installing the w.w. Since then, it seems my turbo CAN NOT put out over 16psi and thats with the redline hooked up. Prior to the turbo letting go, i was run'n the 10k mod. Since then, with new/rebuilt turbo, hadn't gave that mod a thought. Well, yesterday, for shiats, i installed the 10k resistor, in the plug. The truck didnt have the "lopy" idle, but throttle response was crisp. Damn, it sounded alive. Went on my way, proceeded to enter the freeway, and i decided to see, what the truck got. to my surpirise, with redline disconnected, she banged to 22psi, and without a miss. I mean, damn needle just poped up to that amount, and seemed that i probably still had some pedal left.

SO, my question is, is this a sign..(not run'n the resistor), that my IPR is bad, ICP, combination of both, HPOP bad....? Thanks.
I would lean more towards a possible ICP issue, since you are "fooling" the Sensor signal to demand more pressure from the IPR. Since you get the pressure(likely, but would need to be verified with data log) then the IPR is likely doing it's function.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 08:10 PM
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Are you running any kind of tuner now?

When you add the ICP mod, 10k or otherwise your picking up HP because the PCM boosts the ICP believing its low... Your truck sounds normal if your not running a tuner.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BigAlsPSD
Pro's could be slightly increased throttle response, Con's would be an increase in back/drive pressure, that if too much would cause a pressure differential in the turbo between the turbine and compressor side and break the turbo.
Doesnt sound like something else I want to fix. Ill leave it as is.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by pin8246
Doesnt sound like something else I want to fix. Ill leave it as is.
You could always just tighten it up, by turning the actuator rod, then it still activates, just not until a higher PSI.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2012 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by BigAlsPSD
You could always just tighten it up, by turning the actuator rod, then it still activates, just not until a higher PSI.
Must be talking in a different language, cause I have no clue what your talking about. Haha. No I really know nothing about this truck, thats why im on this site all day reading trying to figure things out. Since I have had the truck the list of things I have done has been oil change, tie rod, leveling kit, blocks, fuel filter, and just today new trans cooler. All those are pretty basic. Still a little intimadated to start messing with things I dont know.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by pin8246
Must be talking in a different language, cause I have no clue what your talking about. Haha. No I really know nothing about this truck, thats why im on this site all day reading trying to figure things out. Since I have had the truck the list of things I have done has been oil change, tie rod, leveling kit, blocks, fuel filter, and just today new trans cooler. All those are pretty basic. Still a little intimadated to start messing with things I dont know.
You will see three things in this picture that are different from stock:


  1. The red line (plastic tube) to the turbo wastegate actuator is disabled. This keeps the computer from opening the wastegate and dumping the turbo's turbine drive pressure out the exhaust. This also means the mechanical spring that opens at turbo max had better work - CSIPSD can explain this better than I... I'm still a newb.
  2. The Air Intake Heater and all its wires are gone (behind the green plastic tube, on the left).
  3. My turbo boost sensor is mounted directly after the turbo. Most people install their sensor on the left side of the "spider", where I took the AIH out... or on a tube to the MAP sensor. Their way sees what boost the engine gets, my (accidental) way sees what boost the turbo is generating - the readings are not the same. After great thought, I like my way better because I know when my turbo has reached it's limits.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 09:25 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by CSIPSD
Are you running any kind of tuner now?

When you add the ICP mod, 10k or otherwise your picking up HP because the PCM boosts the ICP believing its low... Your truck sounds normal if your not running a tuner.
No tuner just yet, Joe...think'n DP, what you think?....sorry man, i no, bad time.

Alrighty...you really think this is not out of the norm? I was thinking something was wrong with my gauge until the otherday, seeing 20+, with redline off and 10k resistor installed. Mind you, AFTER the turbo went sky high, i WAS seeing 17-18psi with w.w., and redline hooked up. I had installed the 10k for towing purposes, but try'n to prove my truck to "family"..(knocking the sounds, diesels make and its power), i had to prove otherwise. Anyway, my trucks' a snail. I can tell the difference. It doesnt move until 1600rpm, and boost CRREEEEEPPPPPS to the 10-11psi wall, 14-15psi wiht r/l disconnected. NOW, with the 10k, the damn needle is on a springboard, 10psi REAL QUICK, pulling up to the higher numbers. Its comparable to TUGLYS video and SPOONERS videos, of their boost movement...
 
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 09:26 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by BigAlsPSD
Con's would be an increase in back/drive pressure, that if too much would cause a pressure differential in the turbo between the turbine and compressor side and break the turbo.
God enough for me, thanks Al.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 12:50 PM
  #14  
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You mentioned no smoke on Chris's thread... yeesh. This sounds like a fuel issue. If you burn fuel and have no boost - coal. If you burn no fuel - no boost and no coal.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2012 | 06:10 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by pin8246
Must be talking in a different language, cause I have no clue what your talking about. Haha. No I really know nothing about this truck, thats why im on this site all day reading trying to figure things out. Since I have had the truck the list of things I have done has been oil change, tie rod, leveling kit, blocks, fuel filter, and just today new trans cooler. All those are pretty basic. Still a little intimadated to start messing with things I dont know.

If you remove the small e-clip holding the rod onto the wastegate at the turbo, and then shorten the rod, about 7 turns is the norm. You have shortened the wastegate, allowing for the activation by the diaphragm to happen at a later(higher) point.

Here is a video showing the actuation of the wastegate.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/V_hfhdI120s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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