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I figured my '89 driver's door could probably use some help. It falls just a little bit when you first open it. So I ordered upper and lower hinge pins and bushings and new door springs, the little spring that holds the door open.
I ground out the old pins, pressed in the new bushings and pins, installed the new spring and remounted the door. After all that?... ... I can't tell any difference at all, the door works just as before and the Dorman hinge springs are so cheap and weak that even after modification they are still practically useless.
I'm going to put some thin washers between the bottom hinge and the door to lift it up and keep it from sagging, but what about the spring?
Does anyone else make a better hinge spring? Mine are all broken in half so the doors close on their own constantly.
I recently did this on my passenger door. I did not replace the spring. The spring that is there is fine.
After replacing hinge pins, you have to adjust/align the door. Also the strike post on the door jamb might need to be adjusted. The bushing on the strike post might need to be replaced.
You need to loosen the hinges on the door and move the door. It's a frustrating and lengthy process involving quite a bit of trial and error. I recommend using a jack and/or stands and something to shim on top of the jack and/or stands.
I recommend trying to adjust before adding washers.
I don't know how body shops do it! I couldn't find any info. online.
Xclimation, I'm hoping that changing the bushings and pins with new that adjustment wouldn't be necessary. I've changed the stricker bolt thingy and could never get it adjusted right!
I recently did this on my passenger door. I did not replace the spring. The spring that is there is fine.
After replacing hinge pins, you have to adjust/align the door. Also the strike post on the door jamb might need to be adjusted. The bushing on the strike post might need to be replaced.
You need to loosen the hinges on the door and move the door. It's a frustrating and lengthy process involving quite a bit of trial and error. I recommend using a jack and/or stands and something to shim on top of the jack and/or stands.
I recommend trying to adjust before adding washers.
I don't know how body shops do it! I couldn't find any info. online.
I've done this a few times on different vehicles and yes, it is a pain. I had to take the door completely off to grind out the pins so i've already made all the adjustment you've suggested. I also adjusted the strike bolt many times.
What i'm left with is a door that lines up correctly at the front, lines up correctly at the back when fully closed, but falls 1/4-1/2" as soon as you pop it open. So if I adjust the hinges the lines won't be right up front and if I move the striker they'll be off at the back. So if I shim the bottom hinge it will raise the rear of the door just a little (it will also technically widen the gap at the bottom front of the door where it meets the fender).
It's an old trick my family has used on suburbans for years, they get really bad.
My main issue now is the cheap Dorman spring made in china. I don't get auto parts sometimes, if the American (or yes, canadian) part broke on me why would the chinese one stand a chance?
EDIT: Come to think of it, instead of shimming the hinge where it meets the door, is there any adjustment on the hinge where it meets the truck body???
Just had a crazy thought....
I wonder if hinges from a different vehicle or a newer model Ford Truck would work?
I might be visiting the Junk yard tomorrow, and will have to look at hinges from other vehicles.
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