Troubles with door hinges
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 617
Likes: 2
Troubles with door hinges
This is not a new topic, and I have read threads/watched videos on the topic...
My driver door had the typical sag of an older F-150. Apparently this had gone on before, as the PO had replaced the hinge pins before. However, he left out one of the bushings so it was not able to be shut from the inside at all and had to be lifted to shut from the outside. Not ideal for the drivers door! So, I bought new hinge pin/bushing kits from Bronco Graveyard to replace them both again and do it right this time.
Got it installed and everything was great! But after using the door a few times it seems like it starts to sag again or something. I’ve tried adjusting the hinges themselves where they bolt to the door, and that will temporarily fix the problem. But then it seems like it sags again with a little use. Sometimes it just won’t latch all the way, sometimes not at all. The bolts for the hinge to the door do not feel like they’re loosening at all.
So, I’m baffled. What I read/watched indicated this was an easy fix. Replace pins and bushings and go on about your life. But that has not been my experience.
Anyone have thoughts for me on what’s going on? It’s driving me crazy!
TIA!
My driver door had the typical sag of an older F-150. Apparently this had gone on before, as the PO had replaced the hinge pins before. However, he left out one of the bushings so it was not able to be shut from the inside at all and had to be lifted to shut from the outside. Not ideal for the drivers door! So, I bought new hinge pin/bushing kits from Bronco Graveyard to replace them both again and do it right this time.
Got it installed and everything was great! But after using the door a few times it seems like it starts to sag again or something. I’ve tried adjusting the hinges themselves where they bolt to the door, and that will temporarily fix the problem. But then it seems like it sags again with a little use. Sometimes it just won’t latch all the way, sometimes not at all. The bolts for the hinge to the door do not feel like they’re loosening at all.
So, I’m baffled. What I read/watched indicated this was an easy fix. Replace pins and bushings and go on about your life. But that has not been my experience.
Anyone have thoughts for me on what’s going on? It’s driving me crazy!
TIA!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 4
From: Washington
You may have to adjust the striker in the door jamb too. Get the body lines lined up with the hinges, then adjust the striker to get the door to shut flush to the cab.
Try some blue loctite on the hinge bolts to eliminate the possibility of them coming loose, and causing sag.
There is also the option of replacing the hinges.
Try some blue loctite on the hinge bolts to eliminate the possibility of them coming loose, and causing sag.
There is also the option of replacing the hinges.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, WA
I finished this on my 95 F250 recently. The passenger side door worked perfect after the bushing change with no adjustment needed BUT the drivers door required adjustment of the door striker. I figured it was the PO adjusting the striker to compensate for the sagging door, maybe the same on yours. 
When you installed the bushings did they go into the hinge very easily? Maybe the bushings are moving inside worn hinge bushing holes.
When you installed the bushings did they go into the hinge very easily? Maybe the bushings are moving inside worn hinge bushing holes.
Temporarily Deactivated
Joined: Aug 2003
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Ask at the junkyard what hinges will swap from vehicle to vehicle. IIRC there is a swap from the passenger side to driver's side. Passenger side usually doesn't have as much wear. If you can find one with a compatible color you get bonus points for that. Replacement is a pain and a hassle.
Grab strikers with good plastic also.
Grab strikers with good plastic also.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 617
Likes: 2
You may have to adjust the striker in the door jamb too. Get the body lines lined up with the hinges, then adjust the striker to get the door to shut flush to the cab.
Try some blue loctite on the hinge bolts to eliminate the possibility of them coming loose, and causing sag.
There is also the option of replacing the hinges.
Try some blue loctite on the hinge bolts to eliminate the possibility of them coming loose, and causing sag.
There is also the option of replacing the hinges.
I’ve thought about replacing the whole hinge, but that seems excessive. Maybe not though?
Thread Starter
|
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 617
Likes: 2
I finished this on my 95 F250 recently. The passenger side door worked perfect after the bushing change with no adjustment needed BUT the drivers door required adjustment of the door striker. I figured it was the PO adjusting the striker to compensate for the sagging door, maybe the same on yours.
When you installed the bushings did they go into the hinge very easily? Maybe the bushings are moving inside worn hinge bushing holes.
When you installed the bushings did they go into the hinge very easily? Maybe the bushings are moving inside worn hinge bushing holes.
The bushings didn’t just drop in. I had to drive them in a bit. I took that as a good sign that the hinge holes weren’t reamed out or worn. However, I have observed that they’re able to move up slightly with use. I can tap them back down while the pin is still installed. Is that a bad sign?
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 617
Likes: 2
Ask at the junkyard what hinges will swap from vehicle to vehicle. IIRC there is a swap from the passenger side to driver's side. Passenger side usually doesn't have as much wear. If you can find one with a compatible color you get bonus points for that. Replacement is a pain and a hassle.
Grab strikers with good plastic also.
Grab strikers with good plastic also.
The striker is is supposed to have plastic on it? I’ll have to check again, but I don’t remember that. Perhaps that’s my problem?
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, WA
I hadn’t thought of the PO adjusting the striker. Maybe that’s it?
The bushings didn’t just drop in. I had to drive them in a bit. I took that as a good sign that the hinge holes weren’t reamed out or worn. However, I have observed that they’re able to move up slightly with use. I can tap them back down while the pin is still installed. Is that a bad sign?
The bushings didn’t just drop in. I had to drive them in a bit. I took that as a good sign that the hinge holes weren’t reamed out or worn. However, I have observed that they’re able to move up slightly with use. I can tap them back down while the pin is still installed. Is that a bad sign?
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 617
Likes: 2
Bummer! That's not the news I was hoping to hear. But, you're probably correct. Thanks for your help! I'll start looking for hinges.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, WA
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,227
Likes: 4
From: Washington
That's is how it is on the replacement hinge I have waiting to be installed.
To be specific the bushing is sandwiched between the two hinge halves. The bushings are pressed/inserted into the door half from the top and bottom, so that the flange of the bushing is on the outside of the hinge ears. The frame half of the bushing then goes over the flanges sandwiching them between the two hinge halves.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Long Beach, WA
That's is how it is on the replacement hinge I have waiting to be installed.
To be specific the bushing is sandwiched between the two hinge halves. The bushings are pressed/inserted into the door half from the top and bottom, so that the flange of the bushing is on the outside of the hinge ears. The frame half of the bushing then goes over the flanges sandwiching them between the two hinge halves.
To be specific the bushing is sandwiched between the two hinge halves. The bushings are pressed/inserted into the door half from the top and bottom, so that the flange of the bushing is on the outside of the hinge ears. The frame half of the bushing then goes over the flanges sandwiching them between the two hinge halves.
... I planned to double check myself in the am 
