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warped headers what are some options?

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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 05:19 PM
  #1  
7636074460's Avatar
7636074460
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warped headers what are some options?

Hey guys i know something is wrong with my right header. Talking about a set of 360/390 (dynomax)Blackjack longtube headers. ive come to find out that that dynomax sold out and im afraid to buy new headers that wont fit the way these do. If theres any way to do so, Im going to fix them.

they leaked wierd, the exhaust ports are square and this header finally blew a gasket one day and every gasket ive tried to replace with leaks at almost every corner of the square ports. Ive yet to have any leaks on the drivers side.

Im tryin to think of a good way to see how warped they are, a staightedge will only show so much.

I think i want to go ahead and drop them off at a machine shop and have them skimmed across a mill or beltsander like i seen stacey david do on GEARS on t.v.?
what do ya'll think

the other option i would try is to buy the header flanges i seen on summit and redo the bad header with it.

i think if i had a good way to check how true they are i could weld on them and grind back true, but ill have to build some kind of jig and spent hours with a flat peice of steel and straighedges.

do yall have any other tricks or suggestions?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 07:38 PM
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Roger Carter
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Assume the flangs is warped. If it isn't, it is one of the few that isn't.
Try cutting the header flange between each tube (total of 3 cuts). This will allow each tube to be bolted individually to the head, without the rest of the tubes or flange affecting it.
I have found this to solve a lot of header leak issues, especially on headers with 1/4" or 5/16" flanges.
Good luck.

Roger Carter
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 08:23 PM
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HIO Silver
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From: NorCal
EZ. Weld up a fixture to mount the header and maintain the relative position of the collector and flange. Cut off the offending flange, mount it back to the fixture, and weld on a new one.

FE header flange from Jeg's: $40. PN 555-31815
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 06:06 AM
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garthneddy
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From: Franklin, IN
I would do what silver said, but if you have no fabrication experience I would recommend some flowtechs. They are very cheap and my set required nothing but removing the manifolds and bolting them into place.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 07:14 AM
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fordman50
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I am over headers and went back to stock cast iron manifolds and love them, no more leaks and ticks and roaring. These are low revving trucks, not race cars. Headers are a complete waste of time and money for the vast majority of us truckers. I have a low 10 sec street mustang and yeah, I will keep long tubes on that.. My truck? Never again!
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 07:41 AM
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keiths78f150
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Originally Posted by fordman50
stock cast iron manifolds and love them, no more leaks and ticks and roaring.
I have stock manifolds and these puppies are ticking like crazy haha Can't wait to get rid of them. Then again, I am building a 500 horsepower 460, so headers make since for me more than someone running a stock 351m.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 07:56 AM
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fordman50
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Originally Posted by keiths78f150
I have stock manifolds and these puppies are ticking like crazy haha Can't wait to get rid of them. Then again, I am building a 500 horsepower 460, so headers make since for me more than someone running a stock 351m.
You must have used some cheesy gaskets for 500 hp you will need LT headers BUT while 500 HP sounds nice and all, for that VAST majority of us, what is the point? I had a 351M for YEARS with a bad cyl and worn rings that I used to tow my race car and do some off roading. from the factory that was only a 146 HP engine!!!!! as it was it MAYBE had 110 HP and could pull my car dont the road like nothing was behind it and drove great. IN FACT if I were to have built that engine to make 500 HP (and I know how to) Its likely that it would be a much worse puller or back woods rooter for all kinds of reasons... sooo yeah.. anyway I now have a 460 with a 750, eldy intake, mild cam, ported D3 heads and ported cast iron manifolds and love the combo personally. It prolly make 350-400 or more, more than double or triple the old combo but its still not as good and towing and the old set up. Big numbers dont always make a better truck.
 
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Old Sep 14, 2012 | 12:50 PM
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garthneddy
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Headers are far from being a waste of time and money, what other mod are you going to do that will get you a gain from the bottom of the torque curve all the way to the top for that cheap? I think its worth the roughly $150 for that header sound. My cheapie flowtechs never leaked, warped and they took zero massaging to fit properly.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 12:07 AM
  #9  
Evan's F250's Avatar
Evan's F250
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Originally Posted by garthneddy
Headers are far from being a waste of time and money, what other mod are you going to do that will get you a gain from the bottom of the torque curve all the way to the top for that cheap? I think its worth the roughly $150 for that header sound. My cheapie flowtechs never leaked, warped and they took zero massaging to fit properly.
I like headers too. Every one of my vehicles has headers and for what little they cost, they made a good improvement over stock manifolds. I also run the flow techs, I've had no problems, No mods needed. I've got a mild 400 and the flow tech headers were a huge improvement over poor flowing manifolds.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 11:10 AM
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phathom
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Ok, here is what you REALLY need to do, in order to keep your headers like you want.
All you need to do is go to a machine shop, take in your headers that are warped, and ask them to plane them for you.
They will take the header and run it on a big belt that remove metal evenly until it is level. This is provided you have enough metal to work with, which most of the time you will unless they are really cheap headers or this had been done before. This should cost you about 1/2 hour of machine shop labor time, which should run you about $20-40.

If you do not have the extra metal to plane it down without ruining the header, then I would recommend a Mr Gasket copper gasket. They are thicker and will expand with the heat to seal between the warpage of the header, provided it's not too badly warped. This should run you about $45. I checked their site and I only see them for small blocks and the 429/460. But just because they're not listed now, doesn't mean you can't find some for the 360/390.
 
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