Headers
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: The dark carnival
It looks like you are experiencing one of the many downfalls of headers....leaks. Good luck finding a way to make them LAST! This is ONE of the reasons I stuck with manifolds. In case you did not know, they don't even need gaskets...which is nice becuse thats one less thing to fail. I don't know which headers you are using, but the best way to make the set up last is to get some "no B.S." headers in addition to some "no B.S." gaskets. For maximum results look for stainless headers with a 3/8 or thicker flange, get some copper gaskets and fasten them down with ARP studs. If that does not work then I don't know what will.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: The dark carnival
Originally Posted by Skandocious
Definitely go with copper gaskets, that's what everyone has told me to use when I install my headers (next weekend, WOOO!!).
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Don't be a smartass 
I have school and work during the week so the only chance I have to work on my truck is on the weekends, and I have been tied up the past few weekends since we bought a boat (and from my e-fan project). So this weekend I finally got around to starting this project (even though I had to move my apartment this weekend). I managed to get the paint stripped off and got them completely repainted. Tomorrow I'm going to continue with my apartment move and next weekend they'll be going on.
I'll get them lined up and mark the spots where I want the EGR and o2 sensors tapped, then take them to an exhaust shop to have it done. Bring them back, mount them with studs and the copper gaskets I bought. Then I'll use some exhaust bends and a TIG welder that my buddy down the street has in his shop (along with his new frame lift WEE!!) and some help from him and I should be good to go. So to you eco
I have school and work during the week so the only chance I have to work on my truck is on the weekends, and I have been tied up the past few weekends since we bought a boat (and from my e-fan project). So this weekend I finally got around to starting this project (even though I had to move my apartment this weekend). I managed to get the paint stripped off and got them completely repainted. Tomorrow I'm going to continue with my apartment move and next weekend they'll be going on. I'll get them lined up and mark the spots where I want the EGR and o2 sensors tapped, then take them to an exhaust shop to have it done. Bring them back, mount them with studs and the copper gaskets I bought. Then I'll use some exhaust bends and a TIG welder that my buddy down the street has in his shop (along with his new frame lift WEE!!) and some help from him and I should be good to go. So
to you eco
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1
From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Hmm, someone told me that I can off most of that stuff, I don't recall who... Was it you? lol
I'll have to dig that thread up and see what they said again, I actually forgot about all that stuff.
EDIT: Yes sir, it WAS you!!
From the following thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...e-goin-on.html
I'll have to dig that thread up and see what they said again, I actually forgot about all that stuff.
EDIT: Yes sir, it WAS you!!
Originally Posted by eco
My thoughts...
1) Use studs. Don't even bother with bolts. Not only will the installation go smoother with studs, you will get a much better header-to-head seal. I used ARP and 1 Dorman stud...more on that later.
2) Use clamps for joining the pieces of the system....that way you can do all the work yourself and if you want to/need to disassemble the exhaust system you can easily do so. That, and they will never leak on you
3) Whatever you need for the system (pipe, bends, clamps, muffler, bungs etc. etc.) aside from the headers and the cat (sounds like you already have that), get it from www.stainlessworks.net . They use all 304 stainless (the highest grade), they do awesome work and the prices are fair.
4) You can get rid of all the misc. stuff mounted to the manifolds except for 1 thing...and thats the upper plenum support brace. Use a long stud (I used a Dorman stud from Fastenal), run a nut and washer down to the header + torque it down, then run a spacer down or stack of washers against the nut, then the brace + another washer and nut. To support the motor oil dip stick tube I fabricated a bracket and mounted in to where the AC compressor goes. Works like a charm. I tossed the heat shields and the brackets used to lift the motor. You will have to re-tighten the nuts from time to time and you dont want to have to deal with removing a bunch of stuff to do so. You want that area to be bare to ease the task of re-tightening and replacing gaskets...things that you will innevitably have to do.
1) Use studs. Don't even bother with bolts. Not only will the installation go smoother with studs, you will get a much better header-to-head seal. I used ARP and 1 Dorman stud...more on that later.
2) Use clamps for joining the pieces of the system....that way you can do all the work yourself and if you want to/need to disassemble the exhaust system you can easily do so. That, and they will never leak on you
3) Whatever you need for the system (pipe, bends, clamps, muffler, bungs etc. etc.) aside from the headers and the cat (sounds like you already have that), get it from www.stainlessworks.net . They use all 304 stainless (the highest grade), they do awesome work and the prices are fair.
4) You can get rid of all the misc. stuff mounted to the manifolds except for 1 thing...and thats the upper plenum support brace. Use a long stud (I used a Dorman stud from Fastenal), run a nut and washer down to the header + torque it down, then run a spacer down or stack of washers against the nut, then the brace + another washer and nut. To support the motor oil dip stick tube I fabricated a bracket and mounted in to where the AC compressor goes. Works like a charm. I tossed the heat shields and the brackets used to lift the motor. You will have to re-tighten the nuts from time to time and you dont want to have to deal with removing a bunch of stuff to do so. You want that area to be bare to ease the task of re-tightening and replacing gaskets...things that you will innevitably have to do.
Last edited by Skandocious; Sep 3, 2007 at 04:17 AM.
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Headers
Thanks folks!! The last headers I bought were in 1978 for a GTX... That is another story... I absolutely agree with the manifolds... However I just bought this truck, 1989 F350 460 auto 4x4. Thing came with headers.. Leaks too!! Any body have any good manifolds??......
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