Timing problems.
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Timing problems.
Hi I'm new to he site. I recently purchased a project 1984 f-150 stepside with an i6 manual trans four on the floor 2wd. I have begun work on it to find it has been completely gutted as far as my wiring harness. The previouse owner converted the eec iv kind of. Basic the chopped all the wires going to the EEC except for the a/c, temp sensor, and alternator sensor. Also the distibutor and coil where from an earlier year 1960 I think. I have replaced the old distributor, added the ignition control module which was cut out, new coil, new fuel pump,fuel filter, and Lu on a 4bbl carb. The problem I am having is that when I rotate the engine TDC the timing mark on the harmonic balancer are way off. What should I do use a straw to find TDC on #1 and time by ear. Would inserting the distributor at the wrong position cause he balancer marks to be off. Any help is appreciated.
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From: Sheffield, AL
Welcome to the forum, Sauder55!
Your truck originated with a computer controlled feedback system. It was Ford's predecessor to fuel injection, which for the 4.9L engine began in 1987. If any of the sensors, distributor or carburetor are removed or disabled, the computer goes into a "limp home" mode to protect the engine. The carburetor is directed by the computer to go rich and the timing is locked @ 10 degree BTDC. Performance and fuel mileage suffer as a result.
Have you searched and read the many threads regarding Duraspark 2 conversion?
By the way, the rubber layer in the harmonic balancer is known to break loose with age and the outer ring will shift, thereby affecting timing. Take a piece of chalk or crayon and make a straight line all the way across the harmonic balancer. Drive for a while and then with the engine off, look again at the line. You can easily tell if the outer ring has shifted.
Your truck originated with a computer controlled feedback system. It was Ford's predecessor to fuel injection, which for the 4.9L engine began in 1987. If any of the sensors, distributor or carburetor are removed or disabled, the computer goes into a "limp home" mode to protect the engine. The carburetor is directed by the computer to go rich and the timing is locked @ 10 degree BTDC. Performance and fuel mileage suffer as a result.
Have you searched and read the many threads regarding Duraspark 2 conversion?
By the way, the rubber layer in the harmonic balancer is known to break loose with age and the outer ring will shift, thereby affecting timing. Take a piece of chalk or crayon and make a straight line all the way across the harmonic balancer. Drive for a while and then with the engine off, look again at the line. You can easily tell if the outer ring has shifted.
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Thanks for the speedy response. I have not researched that specific system yet. I was not sure what system I had on my truck. I read the Haynes manual for the truck but the whole rig is frankensteined together. As I stated all the wiring has been cut I pulled the dash and started pulling the wirin harness apart to trace every wire. I will search more for that topic. So because of my trucks wiring being cut this could have caused the timing marks on he harmonic balancer to just change all the sudden? All of the components I installed where completely different than what was previously installed. Thank you again for the information.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
A factory Wiring Diagrams book would likely help you immensely!
Here is a reprint of one for ~$40, there are others available, too.
1984 FORD F-100 to F-350 TRUCK Wiring Diagrams
BTW there is nothing in the wiring that could cause the harmonic balancer to slip and mis-show the ignition timing.
Here is a reprint of one for ~$40, there are others available, too.
1984 FORD F-100 to F-350 TRUCK Wiring Diagrams
BTW there is nothing in the wiring that could cause the harmonic balancer to slip and mis-show the ignition timing.
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So I read the stickies on the duras park conversion. This is actually what I just did to my truck. What I think happened was the previouse owner bought it with the conversion already done and them proceeded to cut all that wiring And install his own when I broke down the wiring the ignition system was run from a wire splice into a fuse clamp. So I basically hard wired the duras park 2 system back in with the cut wiring. Now I'm still stuck wih the problem that before I installed the new parts the truck would start but missed under load very badly. At this point I began checking my timing with he old parts in. The marks matched on the harmonic balance when I found TDC. After pulling he dizzy and all the other parts I stated above when I find TDC the marks on the harmonic balancer don't line up.
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If you have physically matched TDC on the balancer to TDC on cylinder 1 and they matched, but now repeating this same procedure gives you different results, then it sounds like your balancer has slipped. The cushioning in the balancer does wear out. You will find many posts on here about that. When that happens it is possible for the outer portion of the balancer to rotate in relation to the inner portion, thus making it impossible to use it accurately as TDC on the balancer no longer matches true TDC on the piston.
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Ok will this effect the engine at all? Could I time it by ear? Or do I have to replace the balancer all together? Thank you all again for the help.
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Second, yes you can time by ear. However they put timing marks on your engine for a reason. You will not get your motor tuned as well by ear as you will by using a timing light. There is also a vacuum method of timing, but I am unsure of how to do it. It too is not as accurate as a timing light, but should be more accurate than going by ear. You can search for it here or just google it.
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I understand that the part should be replaced and I will but just to get it started and timed roughly would the movement of the outer ring damage the engine or have any other effects. Also since I have the new carb, dizzy, and ignition module can I remove the EEC completely from the truck or does it still need to be connected to some parts to run right? Thanks again guys I have been tooling around on tis for two months the information has made this much easier.
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I understand that the part should be replaced and I will but just to get it started and timed roughly would the movement of the outer ring damage the engine or have any other effects. Also since I have the new carb, dizzy, and ignition module can I remove the EEC completely from the truck or does it still need to be connected to some parts to run right? Thanks again guys I have been tooling around on tis for two months the information has made this much easier.
As for the balancer, you are rolling the dice. You are wanting someone to tell you that it is OK to leave an integral part of your motor broken. I for one will not tell you it is OK. I will again tell you to replace it as soon as you can. It is no different than knowing any other part of your truck has a problem and ignoring it. Murphys law dictates that since you are now aware of the problem, and are choosing not to fix it, it will leave you sitting on the side of the road. probably at a very inopportune time. I wish you the best of luck.
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