Newbie - No start help
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,993
Likes: 2
From: Bend, OR
The whole time the duty cycle stays at 14%? Give or take...
Try unplugging the ICP sensor...
The duty cycle should be jumping to 40-50-60% if its not starting... Could you have swapped plugs for the IPR with the EBPV control?
Try unplugging the ICP sensor...
The duty cycle should be jumping to 40-50-60% if its not starting... Could you have swapped plugs for the IPR with the EBPV control?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Does your WTS light work normally? Sounds like you've got a dead PCM. AE reads what the IPR is calling for, not what it's actually doing. With a functioning PCM and dead IPR, you'll still read 60%+ while cranking and a no start.
If you're reading 14% while cranking and 0 RPM, the PCM isn't asking the IPR to close off and increase pressure. Was the chip new with the injectors? Did you happen to leave the key in the ignition when you pulled the chip to check it?
If you're reading 14% while cranking and 0 RPM, the PCM isn't asking the IPR to close off and increase pressure. Was the chip new with the injectors? Did you happen to leave the key in the ignition when you pulled the chip to check it?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
What about partially dead or corrupt? A functioning PCM will call for more IPR duty cycle regardless of what the IPR is doing. We've seen that way too many times here.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
But ICP should continue to increase, along with IPR duty cycle while cranking, until the engine starts. Hitting the ICP threshold shouldn't keep the IPR duty cycle from increasing if the engine hasn't started yet.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2012
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Never unplugged the EBPV sensor when I did the mods, still 14% or so on duty cycle. Before I bought the new ICP I unplugged it with no change.
Buzz test was perfect, all 8 loud and 8 individual all sounding almost identical.
WTS light andall dash light seem to behave normally. I disconnected both batteries before I touched the PCM both times when I installed and re-installed the chip and the key was not in the ignition.
The beer has got me thinking and the idea that the PCM is not getting the signal seems to be the right one, but I don't think my PCM is dead or corrupt, I am thinking harness. Does anyone know the pin out voltages so I can test all the connections with a multimeter? Under no crank and crank conditions? I am thinking CPS and ICP harness connectors for starters.
Thanks for the help....
Buzz test was perfect, all 8 loud and 8 individual all sounding almost identical.
WTS light andall dash light seem to behave normally. I disconnected both batteries before I touched the PCM both times when I installed and re-installed the chip and the key was not in the ignition.
The beer has got me thinking and the idea that the PCM is not getting the signal seems to be the right one, but I don't think my PCM is dead or corrupt, I am thinking harness. Does anyone know the pin out voltages so I can test all the connections with a multimeter? Under no crank and crank conditions? I am thinking CPS and ICP harness connectors for starters.
Thanks for the help....
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
Likes: 3
From: Pea Ridge, AR
To me the key thing is that you have no RPM signal as seen by the PCM. I don't think any of the other values will really change until you get a signal for the RPM.
Did you pull the PCM to install the chip? OR did you already have the plastic case cut to simply install the chip?
I would pull the PCM again, and look really closely for possible bent pins. Also inspect the wiring harness for the CPS.
Did you pull the PCM to install the chip? OR did you already have the plastic case cut to simply install the chip?
I would pull the PCM again, and look really closely for possible bent pins. Also inspect the wiring harness for the CPS.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2012
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OK, so I finally got it almost fixed. I have isolated the problem to my engine wiring harness. I changed it out with a harness from a 2001 model and it cranked but all the connections were not the same on that harness. After some research and calling the local dealer, I feel confident that I need one of two harnesses and was hoping to get some advice.
The difference has to do with DRL (daytime running lights). My VIN seems to indicate I need the harness that has this feature but I do not see them when the truck is running and do not recall disconnecting anything that wasn't sensor related when I removed the harness. The Ford part number for the harness without the DRL is: 2C3Z-12A581-GC, I have found one of these new very cheap (under $300). The one the dealer tells me I need is 2C3Z-12A581-NC which they want $800 for!!!! I think I can just buy the other one, any other thoughts out there? I don't realy need DRL but I don't want a constant CEL or other error light either and/or have to take the chip back out again for Jody to re-program without whatever code that will throw (if any).
At least I have found the problem thanks to all here and the use of AE!
Thanks,
Mike
The difference has to do with DRL (daytime running lights). My VIN seems to indicate I need the harness that has this feature but I do not see them when the truck is running and do not recall disconnecting anything that wasn't sensor related when I removed the harness. The Ford part number for the harness without the DRL is: 2C3Z-12A581-GC, I have found one of these new very cheap (under $300). The one the dealer tells me I need is 2C3Z-12A581-NC which they want $800 for!!!! I think I can just buy the other one, any other thoughts out there? I don't realy need DRL but I don't want a constant CEL or other error light either and/or have to take the chip back out again for Jody to re-program without whatever code that will throw (if any).
At least I have found the problem thanks to all here and the use of AE!
Thanks,
Mike
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New User
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Last post on this topic to add to the body of knowledge on the site. The problem with my harness was the CPS pigtail connector. This is very easy to fix and must be common on these trucks as they get older. I am posting this because I have to wonder if there are people replacing CPS's when they really have a bad connection.
You don't need to go pay for a Ford or International part. The connection to the CPS is a standard Delphi Packard connection. The plug body is part number 12162280 and the three female pin crimp connectors inside the housing are part number 12124075. If you ask around local to a electrical supply store you might find someone willing to sell you these parts cheap. The connectors usually go for less than $0.14 in bulk. You don't even need to take the harness out of your truck! Just disassemble the housing, cut and re-crimp the new connectors, place inside the housing and - Job Done!
My truck was cutting out going over washboarded gravel roads and acting like it was running rough. I checked the UVCH as it is the first suspected culprit, but I have to wonder if this was not a major factor before it just did not get enough signal to even start.
Later,
Mike
You don't need to go pay for a Ford or International part. The connection to the CPS is a standard Delphi Packard connection. The plug body is part number 12162280 and the three female pin crimp connectors inside the housing are part number 12124075. If you ask around local to a electrical supply store you might find someone willing to sell you these parts cheap. The connectors usually go for less than $0.14 in bulk. You don't even need to take the harness out of your truck! Just disassemble the housing, cut and re-crimp the new connectors, place inside the housing and - Job Done!
My truck was cutting out going over washboarded gravel roads and acting like it was running rough. I checked the UVCH as it is the first suspected culprit, but I have to wonder if this was not a major factor before it just did not get enough signal to even start.
Later,
Mike
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