Hi guys I am new to the 7.3 but can hold my own on mechanical stuff - I just finished upgrading a ton of stuff on my truck and tried to start it this morning. No luck.

I added stage 2 injectors, a 38R, FRx and Hpx, new UVCH's, glow plugs, new batteries and added a DP chip and tunes.

When I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump, I get a good ICP reading (using AE - 550psi) but I can't seem to get a fuel pulse width reading. Does that mean my fuel pump is bad even though I can hear it?

I did a buzz test to make sure all the injectors were installed correctly and it sounded great.

Any other ideas? I pulled up some error codes, but I had some before I started all this and don't know if the are new ones or old. Thanks for any advice for a newbie.

Mike

 

One of the cardinal rules for mods is to make sure everything works properly before the mods and in your case it sounds as though you had issues before, did not correct the issues, and now you have codes that could include new and old issues. You will need to give more info in the issues of “tried to start- no luck”. What exactly is it doing and what are the gauges telling you and I hope with all those mods you have additional gauges besides stock. In addition, you will need to state what error codes you are having. I may be able to help with some and there are many on here that could walk you through all of them.

 

PW has nothing to do with your fuel pump.

How long have you cranked on it?

 

I cranked on it 7-8 times 20-30 seconds each time.

The codes were CPS related which started me on my path to fixing this thing. I bought it used and it had some problems. It is a 2002 F350 SRW manual 4x4 CC LB. It has 245k miles, but had a Jasper long block installed 4 years ago. No idea of mileage but based on Autocheck data and the time of the long block install, I would guess less than 80k on the engine but more on most of the externals. I installed a boost gauge and pyrometer the day after I picked it up. Idle was rough and it smelled like it was running rich. I did not want to undertake this myself, so I brought the truck in for service when I first started having problems. They found little and charged much, so here I am.

I did a compression test (370-400 psi) before I decided to do the mods. I replaced every sensor, the IDM and checked the UVCH (.50 mod) so the odds on consensus was that my injectors were shot.

Considering I had low boost (12 psi) and couldn't find a leak, The Stage 2 kit from Riff Raff seemed like a good idea along with the bellowed up-pipes while I had it apart. During the teardown, I noticed that my oil cooler was leaking and would allow water to mix into the oil when the truck was sitting for extended periods. That is now all fixed up with new O-rings.

I am now letting the batteries charge up before I hook up the AE again. I guess I didn't save the session or something because I can't find the codes that were displayed. I'll hook it up once I charge both batteries later and post the codes. Considering this was the first time I used the software, I wouldn't be suprised if I did something wrong.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Check the hpop reservoir and see if it has any oil in it. If not fill it, and try to crank it once the batteries are back up to snuff.

 

Checked the HPOP res earlier and it is full. I must have really drained the batteries becasue my charger is still working on the first battery. Looks like I won't be doing anything else today...

 

Once you have it hooked back up, check the fuel pressure, oil level, water level.

Then run a KOEO test, Buzz test.

Then while cranking watch ICP pressures and duty cycle.

If you have a CPS code and have not replaced your CPS, that might be the first step.

 

Thanks for all the replies - I initially replaced the CPS twice and also used a friends black International CPS with no change in the original condition. I just changed the oil, checked it before start and it was good. I had to completely drain the coolant system as I had to replace the oil cooler O-rings and I also replaced the injector cups before installing the new injectors. I was planning on a full coolant flush once it started so water was full with thermostat removed to run the flush. Forgot to mention all that earlier.

I do not have a fuel pressure gauge, but is there a sensor that I can pick up through the AE scan tool? I used the black spring from the FRx kit due to using 100% nozzle single shots. Buzz test I did today souded great. I will put the other battery on charge over night and try again tomorrow.

Right now, I can only assume that something I replaced had an early failure.

Thanks,
Mike

 

Nothing you replaced could cause this... Not with a good buzz test. Have you tried starting it without the chip installed?

Again, once you get the batterys charged crank and watch ICP pressures and duty cycle.

 

X2. Also monitor engine rpm and battery voltage.

Nope. No sensors in the truck read fuel pressure, so there's nowhere fro AE to pick up data from. There are 2 test ports on the back side of the fuel bowl you can temporarily, or permanently plumb a fuel pressure gauge into.

Most of the time, turning the key on, hearing the fuel pump come on, and opening the fuel bowl drain valve to see if the fuel coming out of the drain tube has good pressure behind it visually is enough of a fuel pressure check for start up purposes.

 

Tonight I removed the chip and no change. I re-installed the chip and tried to start on every program (6) and still no luck.

AE readings during the attempt to start for ICP started low and rose gradually to a peak of 525psi, this was less than yesterday. ICP duty cycle did not change at all. It started at 14.84% and remained there. ICP volts were 0.87. I measured voltage at the battery with a multimeter and it was 12.6 on both. AE reading during crank was 10.7. Oddly enough, the Engine Rpm was reading 0!!!! I can only assume that the CPS went out during the interval since the last time it was checked and while I was putting all the mods in place? Is there another sensor that pulls RPM?

I looked at the codes and think most don't make sense (old), I cleared them and when I cranked no new ones came back. Any other thoughts? I will really kick myself if this is just a CPS, I will change it out tomorrow and see what happens.

Thanks,
Mike

 

CPS is an issue, as well as the duty cycle. Sounds like your ICP sensor is dead too. It should have ramped up to 30% or higher before the truck would fire off and it would settle down to the 14% you saw.

replace the CPS first.

 

I don't know. If the rpm's read 0, I didn't think the IPR would try to increase ICP. I guess we'll find out after he swaps out the CPS.

And weren't you just complaining the other day about stop saying to change the CPS, or something along those lines

 

That I don't know. I could go unplug my CPS and see, might do that tomorrow.

And yes we did, however I will stand by my comments, CPS failure is excitedly rare.

 

OK - so I changed the CPS tonight with one of the ones I purchased before and no change. I changed the CPS out again with a brand new one I bought from the dealer today. No change. I replaced the ICP with a brand new one I bought at the dealer. No change.

All the readings on the AE remain unchanged as well. No RPM's. No change to ICP duty cycle and very slow building ICP pressure even with the new sensor. By very slow I mean cranking for about 10-20 seconds before it hits 500 psi.

I am spent. I have a beer in hand that may turn into tweleve and to hell with everything tomorrow. I am due for a sick day.

Any other parting thoughts before I have this thing towed somewhere?