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1979 302 E150- D80E or E7TE?

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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BaronVonAutomatc
E7 heads use bolt down pedestal rockers and the D8 heads have the old stud mount rail rockers, I believe. See if the seller has the rockers to go with the heads. You can get shims for rocker pedestals if your pushrods are a wee bit too long.
E7's and D8's use the same rockers. D8's were the first SBF (WIndsor style)heads to use pedestal rockers.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 08:40 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by alexchavel
So both heads have the pedestal rockers.

I ll use the rockers and pushrods from the d80e then since i still have the rockers/rods in the order that they were setup.
Don't worry about the pushrods going back in the same way, they rotate in service and do not develop any special wear pattern that would require that they do go back in a certain way. Roller pushrods on the otherhand do wear differently as they do not spin in service. Same pushrod length for both rail rockers and pedestal. No change there.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2012 | 08:44 AM
  #18  
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Thanks bad dad
Will make my day a lot easier!

After getting some heads up from the baron and others I double checked the heads and rockers from both model and they look the exact same...
Nice to have confirmation and peac of mind though!

I love this forum

I ll make sure to post updates later on in the day, should have enough time to do tr heads and intake today

Everything else on monday
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 05:21 PM
  #19  
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After torquing the bolts to the right setting I noticed that Ican still twist them by hand a little bit, but a few are pretty tight..

Baron had mentioned that they should still be able to rotate a little...

Is this ok? I have a good torque wrench and I went to 20lb/ft on each bolt...
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 05:23 PM
  #20  
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Sorry, that post was incomplete!

I was talking about the pushrods after putting heads and rods/rockers on...

I can still rotate most of them, but some are really tight...

Baron was saying they should all be able to be turned by hand...

Most of them do, a couple are really tight, torqued all the bolts to 20lb/ft
 
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Old Sep 10, 2012 | 08:24 PM
  #21  
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Pushrods

The pushrods that are holding valves open will be really tight and hard to turn, as they are compressing the very strong valve springs.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 07:53 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Beanscoot
The pushrods that are holding valves open will be really tight and hard to turn, as they are compressing the very strong valve springs.
What he said.................that's quite normal. Torque em down to 25-30 ft/lbs and forget about em.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 05:24 PM
  #23  
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Update...

Got it all back together, fired her up, roared to life!

Quick compression test afterwards shows around 140 on all cylinders, problem seems solved!

Feels really satisfying right now, two quick questions though:

I think the auto parts shop sold me a thermostat rated a little too hot, i think it's 185 degrees? Guy said it was oem, but I don't think it ever opened even after idling for a while, my temp gauge kept going up...

I know I installed it in the right direction.

Second, after getting hot I started to see a little smoke rising from the exhaust manifolds, just rising straight off of them... I turned engine off right away. I HAD sprayed wd40 on the bolts to get em loos about 10 days ago, but didn't wanna risk it.

Thoughts?

Thanks for all your help guys, felt really good to see 140psi on all cylinders!!
 
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Old Sep 11, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #24  
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You DID install the head gaskets in the right orientation didn't you ? As for the manifolds smoking, that's completely normal for the first few minutes (or miles) after a teardown. The gaskets: look at the lower front corner of the heads, if they're on correctly, you should see a corner of the head gasket poking out there. If all you see is bare block deck, you've got a problem. The coolant will shortcut its way back up to the intake if they're on backwards. This will cause it to run warmer than usual. An air pocket in the coolant will do funny things with the temp sender too, if you see wild flunctuations in the needle, that's an indicator of air pockets in the coolant. MIght need to burp the air out if that happens.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 04:04 AM
  #25  
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Gaskets are definitely on the right way, blocking the coolant passages in the front of the engine so the coolant gets pushed to the back.

What does burping the coolant entail?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2012 | 05:30 AM
  #26  
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I found a link on how to burp the system, really easy to do, will get it done this morning and repost.

That must be the problem, I'd drained the entire system, and thermo new and installed correctly, as with head gaskets etc...

From what I read burping the system is mandatory after completely emptying system.

As for smoke on manifold if I can get temp issue worked out I can run the engine long enough to burn off the oil.

Pretty psyched to take it out on the highway!!
 
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Old Sep 15, 2012 | 08:19 AM
  #27  
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I'm happy to report that all problems are solved, the new heads/install work is really paying off, back to full power, van has never driven this well since I've owned it!!

Thanks to all everybody that took the time to help, I really appreciate it.

Starting a new thread about its exhaust system, hope to get some more quality advice!
 
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