Are there tests/inspections I can do to ensure a ’68 302 would be a good, dependable strong engine? The engine is on the stand with no intake. I planned on a rebuild at a local machine shop but I just have not been able to “swing it”. When I purchased it I was told it was a good strong runner.
Can a compression test be done on the stand? This may be crazy but about removing all the plugs and spin it over with and electric motor or an impact wrench.
Any way I can determine how bad the bearings and crank are worn? Maybe remove a couple mains and rod caps and visually inspect?
Under the valve covers I found a couple pieces of what appeared to be plastic tube like item. Would that be part of the seat or a guide?
Does it make sense to get some newer heads with hardened seats from the pick n pull rather than using these?? Can I use my ‘68 rockers and push rods with 80s - 90s heads? It had a 2bbl intake but I have a 4bbl I plan to use. Are the newer heads also a better choice when changing to a 4bbl.
This engine would be mounted in a ’62 f100 and would only see a couple thousand miles a year, if that. Am I on the right track? Is there something else I need to be checking?

Sorry for all the questions.. but thanks for the advise.

 

If you have it to that point I would probably just go ahead and freshen up the motor. The plastic stuff in the valve covers are probably cracked and dried out valve seals that have come apart. At this point there has probably been oil leaking into the combustion chamber area and I am sure you will have alot of buildup on the valves. You could just pull them and clean them up, give it a valve job, install new head gaskets and seals and they should be fine, but if you have the heads off, you're halfway to a rebuild anyway. I rebuilt a 5.7 chevy tbi in a Tahoe that I had, on the cheap, before selling to a guy I work with. I pulled the motor with 207,000 miles (spun main bearing)....and I had everything checked on the block at the machine shop. He fixed so that I could install new bearings, the cylinder wear was still within spec, so we just bottle honed the cylinder walls. I put everything back together with new bearings and gaskets, cleaned up the cylinder heads as noted above, and it's been running strong for 2 more years (as a daily driver) and according to the guy I sold it to, burns no oil. It's not the best method or most recommended, but for me it worked. I got through the whole thing spending less than $400.

 

Thanks..

Yeah there is quite a bit of build up. I would love to freshen it up at this point but the timing is just bad..


What is the procedure for installing E7 heads? What rockers? What push rods? Is there a "how to" floating around?? Thanks!

 

What heads do you currently have?

There will be a 4 digit assembly date code on the drivers side in front of the head. It's stamped into a small pad protruding forward from the block deck, at the bottom of the cylinder head but above the timing cover. The 1st digit will give you the year assuming you already know the decade. If you are certain it's a 60's 302 motor that 1st digit will have to be either 8 or 9, for 1968 or 1969. Check on the block behind the starter. The 1st 4 digits of the number there will tell you the year, decade, and original vehicle line the block was meant for. If you see a C8 or C9 as the 1st 2 digits you know you have a '68 or newer block.

Assuming it is an early 302, it most likely has 63cc heads and ~9:1 compression. With the E7 heads flow may be slightly better, but you will probably lose some compresson ratio. The E7s are generally around 60-64cc volume and the 68+ 289/302 heads are 63cc and up (except for the J code 4V heads from the 68 302 4bbl which were approximately 53.5cc). If you lose compression ratio, the extra flow may not be enough to compensate and add power. The E7's would also give you hardened valve seats for compatability with unleaded gas, however you'd also have to change over to pedastal rockers and most likely need custom length pushrods. It shouldn't be much different, but there are so many variations of heads and milling possibilities I would recommend checking pushrod length and valvetrain geometry after installing. You may be able to use stock 85-95 pushrods with your E7s. If it were me I'd try the E7 heads if I were switching from any earlier stock 302 head (except the 68 4V small chamber heads). However, if you have access to them and aren't interested in aluminum, skip the E7 and go straight to the GT40 heads from the 93 Cobra or GT40p from 96-97.5 Explorer.