Need a recommendation for bed patch panels
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,362
Likes: 22
From: Florence, SC
Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
DO NOT GET PATCH PANELS!!!!.
Get a WHOLE bed skin. It is a far superior repair, it will last longer, take lest time and you can practically guarantee it will never rust out again if bonded on.
Unlike a patch panel
Get a WHOLE bed skin. It is a far superior repair, it will last longer, take lest time and you can practically guarantee it will never rust out again if bonded on.
Unlike a patch panel
The bed skin I need is the outer driver's side bedside shortbed with single fuel door opening. Where do you suggest I find a whole bed skin of good quality?
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 8,843
Likes: 27
From: Eastern Ky
I like that idea, Diesel. I just did some searching, and it seems that the bed skin I need is obsolete from Ford and no dealers have any left. I had NumberDummy check it out as well and he came up with nothing. The bed skin I need is the outer driver's side bedside shortbed with single fuel door opening.
Where do you suggest I find a whole bed skin of good quality?
The bed skin I need is the outer driver's side bedside shortbed with single fuel door opening. Where do you suggest I find a whole bed skin of good quality?
You tried Dennis Carpenter? What about BroncoGraveyard.com?
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,362
Likes: 22
From: Florence, SC
YES, I tried both Dennis Carpenter and Bronco Graveyard, and nothing. DC has the other side, though. 
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,362
Likes: 22
From: Florence, SC
How much trouble is it to have a long bed panel cut down to fit? Aren't the bed side pockets in different locations?
Is cutting down a long bed panel a better repair than using a lower patch panel?
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Upon further research, neither of the short bed panels are available anymore.
How much trouble is it to have a long bed panel cut down to fit? Aren't the bed side pockets in different locations?
Is cutting down a long bed panel a better repair than using a lower patch panel?
How much trouble is it to have a long bed panel cut down to fit? Aren't the bed side pockets in different locations?
Is cutting down a long bed panel a better repair than using a lower patch panel?
I do know know how much trouble it would be to cut down a side, but I dont think it would be too bad for a capable body man
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,362
Likes: 22
From: Florence, SC
It looks like I was wrong yet again. NO ONE has any original Ford sheet metal skins left for the driver's (LH) side, in short or long base. Nothing but overseas reproduction garbage that I don't want on my truck. I might as well be whistling Dixie and pissing in the wind.
I don't have any experience in body work or body shops, for that matter. How do the bed skins come off the bed? The rest of my own bed is in great shape, and all the others I have seen in the junkyards around here are either rusty or have some body damage somewhere else. I think I could find a good usable side that I need locally in the junkyard, but I don't know where to begin or have the tools to remove the skin.
If I found a good body repair man, are they usually willing to go through the trouble of actually taking off an original bed skin from a junkyard truck to use on mine?
Here is a photo of the damage. The lower sheet metal to the left of the bumper is actually cracked.
I don't have any experience in body work or body shops, for that matter. How do the bed skins come off the bed? The rest of my own bed is in great shape, and all the others I have seen in the junkyards around here are either rusty or have some body damage somewhere else. I think I could find a good usable side that I need locally in the junkyard, but I don't know where to begin or have the tools to remove the skin.
If I found a good body repair man, are they usually willing to go through the trouble of actually taking off an original bed skin from a junkyard truck to use on mine?
Here is a photo of the damage. The lower sheet metal to the left of the bumper is actually cracked.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
1) Cut all rusted metal out
2) Thoroughly power-wash, etch, and then prime/seal/encapsulate with Mastercoat
3) Find some sort of simple, low-profile bolt or bond-on arch solution which leaves the inner side open so it can drain and easily be power-washed out any time I wash the truck. This approach could be viable for my truck now, since I'm only going to need to cut out ~8" of the arch peak, so there will be enough structure left to the original sheet metal. Perhaps the factory wheel-arch lip from the '04+ trucks could be an option, but a test-fit would be required.
2) Thoroughly power-wash, etch, and then prime/seal/encapsulate with Mastercoat
3) Find some sort of simple, low-profile bolt or bond-on arch solution which leaves the inner side open so it can drain and easily be power-washed out any time I wash the truck. This approach could be viable for my truck now, since I'm only going to need to cut out ~8" of the arch peak, so there will be enough structure left to the original sheet metal. Perhaps the factory wheel-arch lip from the '04+ trucks could be an option, but a test-fit would be required.
Note that I didn't have any Mastercoat so I just used Rust-Oleum 7769 after etching. Although I can now get a powerwasher in there to more frequently blow out the evil stuff, I'd have needed to cut out a bunch more good metal in the inner fender to provide access to all of the back side of the outer fender to preventatively treat it. I didn't feel like doing that, so I just tried to brush whatever I could reach in there.
Although I'm still casually looking for a plastic arch solution of some sort, it's not a priority. This is a "beater truck" so cosmetics are secondary. I'm just hoping to slow down the tin worm. And hey, the Rust-Oleum primer is in the same color family at least!
Trailering
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 24
Likes: 6
From: NJ
Diesel Brad I' created that technique 35 years ago when I sold por 15. If you're going to do that use the silver. When this rust sealer was developed by Mobay chemical for bridges it only came in one color silver, period the resin is moisture activated, and blocks moisture from getting to the steel and the aluminum flake is used to cut off the oxygen in layers two coats minimum. It is the industry standard for maximum corrosion resistance and it's called the three coat polyurethane system. Good luck with your project
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 301
Likes: 30
From: Perth Ontario
Diesel Brad I' created that technique 35 years ago when I sold por 15. If you're going to do that use the silver. When this rust sealer was developed by Mobay chemical for bridges it only came in one color silver, period the resin is moisture activated, and blocks moisture from getting to the steel and the aluminum flake is used to cut off the oxygen in layers two coats minimum. It is the industry standard for maximum corrosion resistance and it's called the three coat polyurethane system. Good luck with your project
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
If you're going to do that use the silver. When this rust sealer was developed by Mobay chemical for bridges it only came in one color silver, period the resin is moisture activated, and blocks moisture from getting to the steel and the aluminum flake is used to cut off the oxygen in layers two coats minimum. It is the industry standard for maximum corrosion resistance and it's called the three coat polyurethane system.
I've used it often over the years and it works well. The biggest challenge is keeping the remaining paint from curing after opening. In an ideal world, you use it all over a relatively short period of time (months, not years).
Unfortunately, the Valspar Farm paint has been discontinued. I have no idea why - it was pretty good stuff. Other options exist, and the Mastercoat sealer is the important part.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jaaaaaaackman
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
2
Aug 3, 2016 08:03 PM
william16339
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Aug 3, 2014 08:20 AM
Riskyguy
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Jun 17, 2011 08:06 PM
pinkpanther
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
Sep 20, 2010 06:09 PM