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Need a recommendation for bed patch panels

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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 07:37 AM
  #31  
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Actually, we have a farm down near Chillicothe. I'm finishing my bachelors at Ohio State main campus right now.

On my truck, its the cab that is the main problem. It seems a previous owner has done something with the bed, everything is totally solid (except the fenders are starting to bubble, but they look solid from the underside), but the cab is falling apart. Clearly they don't match.
 
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 10:03 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
The problem I am seeing with the approach of just covering it up with flares is that the rust will continue
Agreed, that's why I said I would cut out all the rusted portions first and immediately encapsulate - well, at least anywhere it had progressed beyond the "surface rust" stage. I realize for some that may mean that the whole arch gets cut out, and then you're in a tougher spot (air is tough to fasten/bond to).
 
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 01:37 PM
  #33  
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Used patch panels on my truck, had to do it over again yea would have bought the side panel disregarding body mans suggestion "just get us the patch panels, I'll workout just fine".
70 patch panels verses 350 for the whole side.

While they did work fine and labor wise would have been near the same in my case, whole side likely little faster no doubt. End result while nice just isn't as good as the whole panel would have been, won't make that mistake again.

The inner well, its easily removed with spot weld bit and if side panel is rusted out over the wheels it will be too requiring its replacement anyway, its as easy to get as the replacement panels themselves are.

If do use patch panel remove the inner well to provide for access for protection from the backside above that point, if rusty need a new one regardless. If not done the repair won't last long enough to make it worth welding in that new patch panel!
 
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Old Sep 3, 2012 | 02:10 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by danr1
Used patch panels on my truck, had to do it over again yea would have bought the side panel disregarding body mans suggestion "just get us the patch panels, I'll workout just fine".
70 patch panels verses 350 for the whole side.

While they did work fine and labor wise would have been near the same in my case, whole side likely little faster no doubt. End result while nice just isn't as good as the whole panel would have been, won't make that mistake again.

The inner well, its easily removed with spot weld bit and if side panel is rusted out over the wheels it will be too requiring its replacement anyway, its as easy to get as the replacement panels themselves are.

If do use patch panel remove the inner well to provide for access for protection from the backside above that point, if rusty need a new one regardless. If not done the repair won't last long enough to make it worth welding in that new patch panel!
My point exactly...My wells are rusted pretty badly anyway...

So it's gonna allow me to open it all up, replace the panels, and coat the inside with POR15 and be done with it...

And in the future, actually clean over top of them out...

I don't think a 30 minute procedure of removing the taillights, cleaning it all out at the car wash and replacing the lights, is gonna kill me
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 04:42 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SideWinder4.9l
My point exactly...My wells are rusted pretty badly anyway...

So it's gonna allow me to open it all up, replace the panels, and coat the inside with POR15 and be done with it...

And in the future, actually clean over top of them out...

I don't think a 30 minute procedure of removing the taillights, cleaning it all out at the car wash and replacing the lights, is gonna kill me
The problem is the inner support. You have to have something there to support the bed side or it will flap in the breeze. And since you will NOT be bonding the piece in, the welds will INSTANTLY start to rust
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
The problem is the inner support. You have to have something there to support the bed side or it will flap in the breeze. And since you will NOT be bonding the piece in, the welds will INSTANTLY start to rust
SO there'd be an issue with my idea AND bonding a new set of inner fenderwells in?

I get the protection, plus the support...

Either/or....I know how it has to be done...No other way around it.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #37  
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If you POR the repaired area and bonded in new arches, that would be acceptable, That is until the pocket below the taillight rots out too

Then you will have just wished you followed my advice about putting a complete skin on and been done with it.
But what do i know, I only do body work on a daily basis
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 12:36 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
If you POR the repaired area and bonded in new arches, that would be acceptable, That is until the pocket below the taillight rots out too

Then you will have just wished you followed my advice about putting a complete skin on and been done with it.
But what do i know, I only do body work on a daily basis
I'm not saying you don't know what you're doing. I'm agreeing with you whole heartedly...

It's just a simple fact of $$$...I already have the panels, willing to completely treat everything when the said panels are put in, etc...

And I already have the panels for under the taillights....Complete lower skins....Courtesy of another member on here...They'll recieve the same exact treatment of POR15, etc...

I'll only be in it for $100-125? Not counting filler work, etc...But to have a complete, rust free bed for that cheap? Count me in...

Only difference I see you and I having, is I simply don't have $700 to drop on new bedsides...Otherwise, I'd get'em...Put them on and be done with it....
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 12:58 PM
  #39  
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Then find another bed. You are south of the Mason Dixon line, rust free parts are pretty easy to find. And that means the price is pretty cheap too.

And dont forget paint. Unless you do rustolium(but then why bother with patch panels) you are looking at another 2-300
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 01:12 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
Then find another bed. You are south of the Mason Dixon line, rust free parts are pretty easy to find. And that means the price is pretty cheap too.

And dont forget paint. Unless you do rustolium(but then why bother with patch panels) you are looking at another 2-300
ANY rust free beds in my area are $600+...Minimal...

And to be honest, 98% of the trucks in my area are in the same shape or worse...Not many options...

So there's the reasoning for my choices....

I had 1 guy to ask my $900 for a bed...And it had a nice crimped area over one of the arches....I guess the look on my face told it all...He just said "Someone will buy it if you don't want to"...

And AFAIK, it's still sitting there...
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 01:28 PM
  #41  
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1987-96 Long Ford Truck Bed
1987 ford f150 bed and hood
Ford truck bed
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 01:58 PM
  #42  
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All of those are 2 hrs away from me...Not knitpicking, just saying...

I'm on less than a shoestring budget...$7.25 an hour doesn't allow for too much Brad....

I agree, definantly cheaper than what I've found locally though...
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 03:02 PM
  #43  
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2 hours is far? I typically drive that far to work everyday. I wish I could come across things that clean for under 500 that would be within a DAYS drive
 
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Old Sep 4, 2012 | 11:39 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
2 hours is far? I typically drive that far to work everyday. I wish I could come across things that clean for under 500 that would be within a DAYS drive
I guess it's all in perspective....
 
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 09:37 AM
  #45  
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Wow, it's a small world. Deer55 and DIYmechanic, I'm a freshman down at ATI now.

Back on topic: I just came home with a shortbed I hope to tinker with this winter. It's a lot cleaner than what I have now, but it still has a 6" stretch of soft metal over the wheelwell that'll need cut out
 
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