Cab Corners
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Huntsville, Al
Cab Corners
I have been contemplating the replacement of the rear cab corners on my truck and have got the replacement panels but have been reluctant in starting since I'm not a skilled welder nor experienced body shop person but willing to learn. The rear corners have 'Metal Mite ' deterioration about 2" up form the bottom Crimped edge and don't effect on the left side the Fuel Filler neck opening so I was skeptical in replacing the whole panel, then having to deal with the filler neck opening since I don't plan on relocating the fuel tank. I then ran across this article the FTE which helped tremendously.
Thanks to this great site and it's search function for a very detailed instruction to enable my task.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-tweeking.html
Youall are great!!
Thanks to this great site and it's search function for a very detailed instruction to enable my task.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-tweeking.html
Youall are great!!
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,322
Likes: 20
From: Rhode Island
Check out my build thread. I did a major rust repair and went darkside on the rest.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Huntsville, Al
Thanks Tom, I've been following your build since you started and admire what you've gotten accomplished. I just hope I can applied what little skills I have to attain your level of expertise.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,322
Likes: 20
From: Rhode Island
Practice, practice, and practice some more.
Alot of the work is accomplished by thinking two steps ahead.
When welding sheet metal, I allway do spot spot welds. Staggering the heat will help ur efforts go more smothly. Keep doing spot welds, and keep spacing apart till u have made one continious spot weld over the patch area.
Dont be in a hurry, take ur time.
Alot of the work is accomplished by thinking two steps ahead.
When welding sheet metal, I allway do spot spot welds. Staggering the heat will help ur efforts go more smothly. Keep doing spot welds, and keep spacing apart till u have made one continious spot weld over the patch area.
Dont be in a hurry, take ur time.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Huntsville, Al
Practice, practice, and practice some more.
Alot of the work is accomplished by thinking two steps ahead.
When welding sheet metal, I allway do spot spot welds. Staggering the heat will help ur efforts go more smothly. Keep doing spot welds, and keep spacing apart till u have made one continious spot weld over the patch area.
Dont be in a hurry, take ur time.
Alot of the work is accomplished by thinking two steps ahead.
When welding sheet metal, I allway do spot spot welds. Staggering the heat will help ur efforts go more smothly. Keep doing spot welds, and keep spacing apart till u have made one continious spot weld over the patch area.
Dont be in a hurry, take ur time.
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Senior User
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From: Huntsville, Al
Our past experiences in the mechanical aspects don't worry us as our Dad was the Shop foreman for White Motor Company in the 40's and 50's so it seems the gene's just fell in place but when it came to tackling the curves and body lines we feel short but we're like 'Mikee in the KIX commercial', we'll try anything once
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Huntsville, Al
That was my thoughts, I just couldn't see removing good sound material if I didn't have to. Thanks
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,516
Likes: 403
From: W. Central FL.
1953 Ford F100 Cab Corner Replacement Cab Corner Photo 34
Take a look at this, a bit different truck, but a pretty good read for someone contemplating such job.
Take a look at this, a bit different truck, but a pretty good read for someone contemplating such job.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If you do not use the entire patch panel, make sure that you are into very solid metal and consider how easy or difficult it will be to get at the rear of the seam to adjust the fit as you weld, be able to hold a copper backing plate behind your weld, be able to gring off any excess melted thru filler rod off the back, and be able to hold a dolly behind the seam to be able to stretch out the heat shrinkage. Then consider the difficulty finishing the front of the panel. The flatter the area the more difficult it will be to get straightened.
Try to avoid making square corners/steps in your seam. Round off any corners with as large a curve as possible. I.e. instead of a stair step round off the corners into an S curve. A round curve is shorter than a square corner, and square corners concentrate the heat (and the accompanying heat shrinkage and distortion) at the point.
Try to avoid making square corners/steps in your seam. Round off any corners with as large a curve as possible. I.e. instead of a stair step round off the corners into an S curve. A round curve is shorter than a square corner, and square corners concentrate the heat (and the accompanying heat shrinkage and distortion) at the point.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 310
Likes: 25
From: Eagan, MN
Ray - thanks for posting the CT article. Any chance you have the next month article showing what they called repairing minimally invasive cab corner repair on the passenger side?
Smitty - patience and planning ahead will go a long ways on your repairs. My drivers side corner needs repair/replacement on the bottom couple of inches and the pasenger sider only needed a small strip replaced (2" x 3"). The rest of both the back corners were good and I agree with the idea of not replacing more than is needed.
Grant
Smitty - patience and planning ahead will go a long ways on your repairs. My drivers side corner needs repair/replacement on the bottom couple of inches and the pasenger sider only needed a small strip replaced (2" x 3"). The rest of both the back corners were good and I agree with the idea of not replacing more than is needed.
Grant
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Replacing 2" of the bottom is no different from replacing 12". Cut away enough of the rusted skin to get into solid metal. Evaluate the inner structure and replace any deteriorated metal. Replace the outer skin with as much of the patch panel as needed. Metal finish the repair. If the outer skin is rusted thru you can be almost guaranteed that the inner structure is too.