Stumped on no spark problem.
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Stumped on no spark problem.
1968 F100
FE 390
I’ve been driving old Fords (only) for about 30 years so I feel I’m somewhat versed in maintenance and trouble shooting them, however I’m stumped here. The truck has needed a tune up for quite awhile but didn’t have time to get to it (of course) until it quit on me, in my driveway lucky enough.
<O
First thing I did was pull the distributor and noticed that the points were closing up, the cam follower on the points were visually worn and needed replaced so I decided to just switch to the Pertronix Ignitor with a Flame thrower coil. Since I was way over due on a complete tune up I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires too. I completed the tune up and she still wouldn’t fire up. (I also replaced ignition switch a few weeks ago.)
Here is the list of what I checked (In no particular order)
#1 Pulled plug wire #1 installed new plug in loose wire end, then ran a jumper ground from plug base to engine ground, had wife turn engine over. (No spark.)
#2 Hooked test light to negative side of coil and the other to good engine ground, cranked over; light did nothing; no pulse or flash. (Zero light.)
#3 Bypassed pink resistor wire by running 12v from positive battery terminal to positive side of coil. Also ran jumper from battery with resistor wire still hooked up. (No spark either way.)
#4 Per the Ignitor instructions “remove red Ignitor from coil, run jumper from + side of battery then crank over, if it starts it’s a low voltage problem”. (Did not start.)
#5 Re-check firing order to make sure wires are not mixed up. (All are OK.)
#6 Remove distributor cap, crank over, and rotor turns counter clockwise.
#7 Put wrench on harmonic balancer with distributor cap removed, turn clockwise and counter clockwise, rotor responds to direction change with about a ¼ inch or less slop in direction change at the wrench.
#8 Pulled plug #1 put wooden dowel into plug hole (To indicate TDC) turned crank around with wrench until TDC on compression stroke, rotor points to #1 wire position on distributor cap.
#9 Checked for power at + side of coil with key on, test light power came on. (without power jumper from battery)
#10 Full power from battery, starter cranks hard and fast.
#11 Re check to make sure Ignitor Module is adjusted per instructions, 0.030” air gap between module and magnet sleeve.
(A tad bit snug but adjusted as far as possible without modifying)
#12 The new coil comes in at 1.5 ohms
#13 Sanded dist ground wire ends, under ground screw in distributor, ground connection from battery on engine, and cleaned ground bolt with die. (Still no spark)
#14
9-04-12 Removed Ignitor and installed new points and condenser fired up on first crank!!
<O
See post below for more details..
I believe that is everything I have checked so far, anyone have any ideas, did I miss something???
FE 390
I’ve been driving old Fords (only) for about 30 years so I feel I’m somewhat versed in maintenance and trouble shooting them, however I’m stumped here. The truck has needed a tune up for quite awhile but didn’t have time to get to it (of course) until it quit on me, in my driveway lucky enough.
<O
First thing I did was pull the distributor and noticed that the points were closing up, the cam follower on the points were visually worn and needed replaced so I decided to just switch to the Pertronix Ignitor with a Flame thrower coil. Since I was way over due on a complete tune up I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires too. I completed the tune up and she still wouldn’t fire up. (I also replaced ignition switch a few weeks ago.)
Here is the list of what I checked (In no particular order)
#1 Pulled plug wire #1 installed new plug in loose wire end, then ran a jumper ground from plug base to engine ground, had wife turn engine over. (No spark.)
#2 Hooked test light to negative side of coil and the other to good engine ground, cranked over; light did nothing; no pulse or flash. (Zero light.)
#3 Bypassed pink resistor wire by running 12v from positive battery terminal to positive side of coil. Also ran jumper from battery with resistor wire still hooked up. (No spark either way.)
#4 Per the Ignitor instructions “remove red Ignitor from coil, run jumper from + side of battery then crank over, if it starts it’s a low voltage problem”. (Did not start.)
#5 Re-check firing order to make sure wires are not mixed up. (All are OK.)
#6 Remove distributor cap, crank over, and rotor turns counter clockwise.
#7 Put wrench on harmonic balancer with distributor cap removed, turn clockwise and counter clockwise, rotor responds to direction change with about a ¼ inch or less slop in direction change at the wrench.
#8 Pulled plug #1 put wooden dowel into plug hole (To indicate TDC) turned crank around with wrench until TDC on compression stroke, rotor points to #1 wire position on distributor cap.
#9 Checked for power at + side of coil with key on, test light power came on. (without power jumper from battery)
#10 Full power from battery, starter cranks hard and fast.
#11 Re check to make sure Ignitor Module is adjusted per instructions, 0.030” air gap between module and magnet sleeve.
(A tad bit snug but adjusted as far as possible without modifying)
#12 The new coil comes in at 1.5 ohms
#13 Sanded dist ground wire ends, under ground screw in distributor, ground connection from battery on engine, and cleaned ground bolt with die. (Still no spark)
#14
9-04-12 Removed Ignitor and installed new points and condenser fired up on first crank!!
<O
See post below for more details..
I believe that is everything I have checked so far, anyone have any ideas, did I miss something???
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Any ideas how to check the distributor for wear?
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I would think you could pull the rotor and see if the shaft had side to side play, but it would probably be best to pull it to check it. If you've never pulled and reinstalled one I'd read up on it and be very sure you understand how. If your taking it out I'd buy a remanufactured unit instead of putting the original back in. It should be pretty inexspensive.
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I've removed and installed many, but have never really run into a worn out one. Are there bushings that wear out or something?<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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I know they have at least one bushing down low. The top may just ride in the distributor housing? But they do wear out. Going rebuilt should help with advance and such that could be worn or broken. That shouldn't cause 0 spark though. You may want to be able to test the coil with an ohm meter. Not sure how to test the igniter but should be with an ohm meter to. New parts can be bad or perhaps an issue while installing and I'm not pointing fingers.
Not sure why none of the pertronix faithful haven't offered any input yet? But if I tell you how much I love the Duraspark I installed in my 73 390 they'll be along with their flags, color guard, and marching bands !!! Try searching this and other forums to see what others have done in the meantime.
Not sure why none of the pertronix faithful haven't offered any input yet? But if I tell you how much I love the Duraspark I installed in my 73 390 they'll be along with their flags, color guard, and marching bands !!! Try searching this and other forums to see what others have done in the meantime.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Western Washington
Maybe try using the old coil with the pertronix and see if you get anything out of it.
If that doesn't do it and the resistance checks out on both coils, I would guess the module is bad. Not much else there could be.
Those little modules will fry real easy if they are hooked up backwards, I did that once.
I have a Pertronix and installing it was just as simple as they said it would be.
Sam
If that doesn't do it and the resistance checks out on both coils, I would guess the module is bad. Not much else there could be.
Those little modules will fry real easy if they are hooked up backwards, I did that once.
I have a Pertronix and installing it was just as simple as they said it would be.
Sam
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From: West Valley Utah
Check the ground wire inside the distributor. I've seen it happen more than a few times where that wire either isn't making a good ground or is a bit loose cause a no start.
Drove my neighbor nuts on his Bronco for days. He had changed and checked just about everything, tightened up the screw for that wire and it fired right up.
Don't know if you still have the original ground wire with the changes you have made!
Drove my neighbor nuts on his Bronco for days. He had changed and checked just about everything, tightened up the screw for that wire and it fired right up.
Don't know if you still have the original ground wire with the changes you have made!
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i had the exact same problem a few weeks ago with my 360 in my f-100. I MEAN EXACT same problem.I put the petronix ignitor in place of the old points and it wouldnt start. No spark. I even put points back in and still no spark.
The other day i went to work on it again and it just started and ran fine on points. I do not know why it just started working out of the blue. Hopefully i can learn something to.
The other day i went to work on it again and it just started and ran fine on points. I do not know why it just started working out of the blue. Hopefully i can learn something to.
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Removed the Ignitor and installed new points and condenser and it started on the first crank.
I contacted the ebay seller of the Ignitor system and explained my problem and he sent me additional information on how to check the system and indeed I was not getting fire. There is a note in the instructions that the magnet and the Ignitor "tops" must be flush with each other in order for proper alignment, and mine were not. The Magnet sits too low with the rotor installed.
I'm 99.9% certain I have the proper kit for my distributor (1281) so perhaps the parts and pieces were mixed up or something. I'm just going to stick with points for now
I contacted the ebay seller of the Ignitor system and explained my problem and he sent me additional information on how to check the system and indeed I was not getting fire. There is a note in the instructions that the magnet and the Ignitor "tops" must be flush with each other in order for proper alignment, and mine were not. The Magnet sits too low with the rotor installed.
I'm 99.9% certain I have the proper kit for my distributor (1281) so perhaps the parts and pieces were mixed up or something. I'm just going to stick with points for now
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