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No start 96 Ranger 4 cyl 2.3 5

 
  #1  
Old 05-20-2010, 12:42 PM
jpj64
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No start 96 Ranger 4 cyl 2.3 5

Hello everyone itís been a while since Iíve had any problems with my 96 Ranger 4 cyl 2.3 5 speed reg. cab, but now I really need some of your advice. First it started running badly when I stopped at red light (idling). Had error codes checked p1506 (iac), p1443 (EVAP).
I Replaced the IAC and purge valve censer and hoses as a kit.
While I was working on it I put in new plugs and cleaned the throttle body and maf.

Now it will not start, I smell gas.
I am getting fire to the plugs.
<O
Any help would be greatly appreciated.<O<O
Thanks,
Johnny
<O
PRIOR TO DISCONNECTING THE BATTERY
</ST1FREEZE FRAME DATA
P0171
FS1 (H025)
FS2 (N/A)
CALC (30.1)
COOLANT (196)
SSTRM1 (21.8)
LT1 (24.2)
ST2 (21.8)
LT2 (24.2)
RPM (1580)
MPH (43)
<O
P0301
FUEL SYSTEM 1 (H025)
FUEL SYSTEM 2 (N/A)
CALC LOAD (16.8)
COOLANT (235)
ST FTRM1 (2.3)
ST FTRM2 (-2.3)
LT FTRM2 (0.0)
RPM (1274)
MPH (0)
<O
IM STATUS (OK)
 
  #2  
Old 05-20-2010, 03:44 PM
g_k50
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Will it start with Ether sprayed into the Air Filter Box?

If so it's a fuel issue. Might be spark timing if it won't (spark plug wires wrong).
 
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:16 PM
jpj64
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Thanks for the quick reply g_k50.
I don't beleive the wires are crossed I pulled and replaced one at a time but i checked and their ok.
I'll have to go pick up some ether and try it. Can I spray it in just in front of the filter are just in front of the throttle body?
Thanks
Johnny
 
  #4  
Old 05-21-2010, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jpj64 View Post
Thanks for the quick reply g_k50.
I don't beleive the wires are crossed I pulled and replaced one at a time but i checked and their ok.
I'll have to go pick up some ether and try it. Can I spray it in just in front of the filter are just in front of the throttle body?
Thanks
Johnny
pull the air duct of the TB and spray it into the TB. did you pull the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulater to see if it smells like gas
 
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Old 05-21-2010, 08:53 PM
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Powersmoked, thanks for your reply.
I pulled the air duct off the TB and sprayed into the TB, it started right up.
I pulled the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator to see if it smelled like gas, it did, so I assumed the diaphragm was broken. I picked up a new regulator, filter and pump will install tomorrow. My fuel gauge quit working a couple of months ago. Any other advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Johnny
 
  #6  
Old 05-22-2010, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jpj64 View Post
Powersmoked, thanks for your reply.
I pulled the air duct off the TB and sprayed into the TB, it started right up.
I pulled the vacuum line off of the fuel pressure regulator to see if it smelled like gas, it did, so I assumed the diaphragm was broken. I picked up a new regulator, filter and pump will install tomorrow. My fuel gauge quit working a couple of months ago. Any other advice or suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Johnny
change the filter and the regulator. if it runs fine after that I would not see the need to change the pump. imho.........add some techron to the tank
 
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:42 AM
jpj64
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Powersmoked, thanks for your reply.
I got a late start, I will do what you suggested and get back with you I'm when through.
Thanks
Johnny
 
  #8  
Old 05-22-2010, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jpj64 View Post
Powersmoked, thanks for your reply.
I got a late start, I will do what you suggested and get back with you I'm when through.
Thanks
Johnny
I just noticed that your fuel gauge stopped working and it is proably the sending unit in the tank. you proabably were thinking of just replacing everything. obviously do what you want........Word on the street that some brands of gas I think Shell is one..... have been doing a number on sending units. supposedly Techron claims to be able to sometimes fix it. put some in the tank. also I think texaco and Chevron gas has Techron in it, double check that.

a few more thoughts. you have a 96 depending on your location your rear leafspring hangers and shackles could be rusted , as well as your brakelines. If you are going to change the fuel pump a lot of people say it is just as easy to remove the bed as it is it is to drop the tank. Once the bed is removed it is easier to work on the shackles and brakelines. Just some thoughts
 
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:04 PM
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Powersmoked, thanks again
Well, no change I guess I’ll go ahead and install the pump because I would like my gage to work. That’s some good information about removing the bed. I’ll have to check the other parts you mentioned. I believe I have about ĺ tank of fuel.
I was wondering could there be air in my fuel lines and need bleeding, if so how do you bleed it out?
Thanks
Johnny
 
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:20 PM
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a few thoughts. can you hear the pump priming at all when you cycle the key. did you check fuses and relays for the fuel pump? you can check the inertia swithc fo rpower. I would hate to see you pull the bed unless you were sure that is the issue. did you check the fuel inertia switch it is somehwere around the passengers feet in the cabin?

I assume you are replacing the whole pump unit incliding the sending unit!! make sure you got a new screen for the boottom of it!!

when removing the bed there are 3 small bolts around the tank filler. 2) there is a electrcal disconnect for the taillights underneith near the bumper 3) you will need a torx 55(buy 2 in case one breaks) a pipe for your wratchet , a breaker bar or a proffesional impack wrench. there are 6 bolts 2 closest to the cabin are longer than the others. hit the bolts from underneith with liquid wrench, I replaced mine with reguler hex bolts. they are Metric.
 
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Old 05-22-2010, 01:29 PM
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Yes the pump runs when I cycle the switch. Inertia switch is depressed. I hooked up pressure gage to fuel rail cycled switch several times no reading at all.
Any other suggesting before I remove and replace bed and pump.
Thanks again
Johnny
 
  #12  
Old 05-22-2010, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jpj64 View Post
Yes the pump runs when I cycle the switch. Inertia switch is depressed. I hooked up pressure gage to fuel rail cycled switch several times no reading at all.
Any other suggesting before I remove and replace bed and pump.
Thanks again
Johnny
if you do the pump make sure you disconnect the battery so you will not have any sparks. I reread the thread and I must say your situation seems a little "different". the truck started running bad and it thru those codes( that don't seem directly related to to the issue), you changed the plugs and wires and then the truck would not start. you replaced the fuel filter( going in the correct direction I am sure). you changed the regulator. You can hear the pump cycling but you have zero pressure at the shrader valve. you have no gas at all there? That seems a little strange to me?.Are there any severe kinks in the fuel line? You obviously tried to start the truck after doing the work? Did you try the starter fluid in the tb since doing the work?. I don't know exactly how the check valve works in the pump I wonder if there is some way it is completely closed tight? I dont hink you need to bleed the system. I think i might screw around with the shrader valve a little and take the gas cap off just for giggles. I have heard of guys whacking the tank right where the pump sits with something like a rubber mallet to see if it frees something up
 
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Old 05-22-2010, 02:51 PM
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Yes I did try to start it after the work. I now have all the fastners out of the bed and ready to lift, thanks for reminding me to disconnect the battery. I'm waiting for some help to lift it up. No I couldn't find any kinks in the lines but here I go to check it out.
I didn't try the ether again, I will do and be right back.
Thanks again
Johnny
 
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:03 PM
jpj64
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One spray of ether it started than died.
Thanks
Johnny
 
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jpj64 View Post
Yes I did try to start it after the work. I now have all the fastners out of the bed and ready to lift, thanks for reminding me to disconnect the battery. I'm waiting for some help to lift it up. No I couldn't find any kinks in the lines but here I go to check it out.
I didn't try the ether again, I will do and be right back.
Thanks again
Johnny
Dont forget to disconnect the tail light wires. here i s a link of the shackles i used on my truck they worked fine. the hanger is Dorman 722-010 and the shackle 722-001. if the truck has been in Alabama since it s Birth I doubt you will have an issue!

Amazon.com: Dorman 722-001 Shackle Kit: Automotive
 

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