Clutch slipping
My question is, will the clutch eventually dry out completely? Can I ever trust it again to tow a large 5th wheel trailer?
If the consensus is no, then it obviously needs to be replaced. The engine has minor mods (K&N air intake, Beans Diesel injectors one step up from stock). I don't think I need to splurge on a Great Neck clutch assembly with these relatively minor HP mods. I went to NAPA Autoparts to order a replacement and their parts system had options for single and multi part flywheels in the same model year with the same VIN code. The flywheel was replaced by the dealer (it's a long story) so I'm assuming it was done with the same flywheel that came stock.
The truck is a 1994.5 Powerstroke with a 5 speed manual tranny. The 8th digit of the VIN is "F". A correct NAPA part number would be great.
By the way, be proud. You guys have an awesome forum here with lots of true pros who like to help.
Anyway about your issue, I don't think I would trust that clutch. I am not going to say that it won't dry out and work, but if you're towing weights like a big 5'er I would just spring for a new clutch. That's my $.02 anyway.
As far as the flywheel goes, I am guessing you have a 2 piece (dual mass) flywheel. What you can do to verify is to pull the inspection cover on the bottom of the transmission and take a gander at the flywheel. If you have a dual mass flywheel you will see that it is two defined separate pieces with a small space between them. You may even get the pieces to move slightly independent of each other. I should mention though that if you do indeed still have a DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel) you should consider replacing it with a single piece unit. The DMF's are a ticking bomb. They have springs and bearings in them to help isolate vibrations and suppress noise, but they have a nasty habit of coming apart and ruining things (including the transmission bell housing, which can end up cracked or broken). A Solid flywheel will produce a little more noise (gear rollover) but it is a bulletproof solution to the problem. Also, I would recommend you look into a Valair clutch. A lot of guys on here run them and even to replace a stock unit they are an economical upgrade.
Lastly, and this is indeed some unsolicited advice, I would recommend you lose that K&N filter. They don't filter well enough for these diesels and can let too much dust through and dust your turbo. Go to your NAPA guy and ask him for a 6637 air filter. It will install right in place of that K&N, flow a lot more air, and filter a lot better.
I am sure others will be along shortly, and hopefully they will give you some more specific first hand advice, but that's my $.02 on the subject.
Edit: Here, I found a picture of a DMF for reference.
Riffraff Diesel: 6637 Replacement Filter
as far as the clutch goes, i would skip buying a clutch at napa too. go with a LUK single mass kit for around $540 from Dial -a-clutch compared to over $1,000 for a dual mass setup.
07-154TFW - Ford Powerstroke Clutch & Solid Flywheel
if you search further you may be able to find a LUK setup even cheaper.
That said, what's your recommendation for a good clutch for a truck with stock power?
As I mentioned, the clutch seemed to be getting better over time. When it reached the point that I could accelerate under full throttle without any slipping I took the trailer out for a test drive. That went fine with no ill effects to be found.
Last weekend I towed the trailer from LA to Palm Springs and back, a route that includes long grades in both directions, and everything worked flawlessly.
Thanks for the advice. I'm also looking to change the air filter as recommended but the replacement is too long to fit into the K&N housing. Do you guys just ditch the housing?
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