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hey guys, just got truck the other day and will take sum pics as soon as i can,but trying to get sum wheels and not going so good.I want 35s and was going to go 20x10 wheel. Most of the look up to fit by make and model show 20x9s,question is are u guys using hub rings on wheels that supposedly arent fitted right for are trucks and any other in put would be great.The wheels i like seem not to work, or i cant find any input on offset ect.... other then it says low offset?I guess i could do the 20x9 but shooting for the bigger dish look on wheels
Sie I have the very same questions and I haven't been able to acquire any solid feedback. Maybe the questions need to be more specific. So let's establish some basic assumptions.
The goal is 35" tires that won't rub.
The quality of the chosen wheels need to be equal to stock so 3500 lbs capacity is a must.
I would think anything beyond 0 offset may be too wide as rubbing of the arm and shooting rocks along the side of the truck could damage paint.
Assume a 2-4 inch lift is involved to prevent rubbing.
What choices are out there that are strong and not too wide? What width is ideal considering my assumptions?
I think Pro Comp makes a good wheel and so does American Racing. Personally I want an American made flat black wheel that doesn't have any chrome studs or flashy stuff. Pro Com is probably what I will look at as soon as I get my Ready Lift stage 4 installed.
You can run 325/60R20's 35.6" x 13" wide on the stock rims and stock suspension but they will rub on the suspension link. I ran like this for a while.
You CAN run 35.6 x 13" wide with 20x9 -10MM offset BUT you need to cut the bumber bracket in the front of the weel well and bend the sheet metal at the back. If you don't cut off the bumper bracket you cant turn at all. I ran like this for a month or so, looks like this.
The 35.6 x 13" wide wheels stick out almost exactly 2" past the fenders with -10mm offset
To do -10mm offset with 35.6 x 13" tires properly you really need a 4.5" lift/ There is enough room with fender flares and no cutting.
I guess not to much more than 2" like most common, but i think the wheels i was looking at have a -24OS, as far as lift goes, i will put on whatever is necessary.I plan on putting fender flares on anyways, so just trying to find wheels or wheel styles that arent listed as just by make,model and year, the list and styles is very limited, plus i was leaning towards chrome wheels.
The tires stick out 2" with the 20x9 wheels with -10 OS and 35" right?I guess i might just do the 20x9s then,just thought when i looked once upon a time ago for wheels/tires the tires said needed a wider wheel to fit the 35s,but i will have to check again.I still cant get any info on wheel weight ratings,what are yours rated for?
Originally Posted by darren32
Here is what I know.
The stock rims are +40mm offset.
You can run 325/60R20's 35.6" x 13" wide on the stock rims and stock suspension but they will rub on the suspension link. I ran like this for a while.
You CAN run 35.6 x 13" wide with 20x9 -10MM offset BUT you need to cut the bumber bracket in the front of the weel well and bend the sheet metal at the back. If you don't cut off the bumper bracket you cant turn at all. I ran like this for a month or so, looks like this.
The 35.6 x 13" wide wheels stick out almost exactly 2" past the fenders with -10mm offset
To do -10mm offset with 35.6 x 13" tires properly you really need a 4.5" lift/ There is enough room with fender flares and no cutting.
Sorry forgot to mention that i just read that someone on FTE cant remmber who again ran 35s with no lift with no problems,not that it matters or not.I suppose every vehicle is a little different. I see so many pics with people that have 35s and level kits/2" lift,and 4" lifts that look almost exactly the same.I just dont wont more lift than the 35s will take without looking like to much lift.
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