E4OD Pressure gauge
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E4OD Pressure gauge
1991 F250 7.3 w e4od... I'd like to put a pressure gauge on the tranny for in the cab.
Where would it need to tie in and what range do I need? What's normal operating pressure?
Also secondary filter? What's the best route?
Where would it need to tie in and what range do I need? What's normal operating pressure?
Also secondary filter? What's the best route?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
There is a bolt plug on the driver's side of the case. Thats where line pressure is measured for diagnostic purposes. Some use it for a temperature sensor.
I think the maximum normal line pressure is about 100 PSI but I'm not 100% sure on that.
Auxiliary filters are generally put on the return line from the cooler. That way anything from the cooler is caught before entering the transmission. Something as simple as tampering replacing a cooler line could introduce small amounts of dirt or other debris into the fluid.
I think the maximum normal line pressure is about 100 PSI but I'm not 100% sure on that.
Auxiliary filters are generally put on the return line from the cooler. That way anything from the cooler is caught before entering the transmission. Something as simple as tampering replacing a cooler line could introduce small amounts of dirt or other debris into the fluid.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Tee into the cooler output line and put your temperature sensor there.
Temperature readings will fluctuate more at this location and readings will show much hotter than if you had the sensor at the pan or even the pressure port.
Temperature readings will fluctuate more at this location and readings will show much hotter than if you had the sensor at the pan or even the pressure port.
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From: Hagerstown, Md
There is a bolt plug on the driver's side of the case. Thats where line pressure is measured for diagnostic purposes. Some use it for a temperature sensor.
I think the maximum normal line pressure is about 100 PSI but I'm not 100% sure on that.
Auxiliary filters are generally put on the return line from the cooler. That way anything from the cooler is caught before entering the transmission. Something as simple as tampering replacing a cooler line could introduce small amounts of dirt or other debris into the fluid.
I think the maximum normal line pressure is about 100 PSI but I'm not 100% sure on that.
Auxiliary filters are generally put on the return line from the cooler. That way anything from the cooler is caught before entering the transmission. Something as simple as tampering replacing a cooler line could introduce small amounts of dirt or other debris into the fluid.
Iirc 1st gear and reverse are about 100 psi and 2nd-4th are up to 75 when really working the tranny but just driving usually around 50ish at least that's what my gauge reads lol
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
that's getting a little bit too carried away though imho.
if the trans is operating correctly,you'll have no real need to monitor pressures in the cab.that's more for diagnoses.
well,lets say your driving along towing,and you see the temp gauge starts to read too hot/before safe limits.you pull over and let it cool down asap.
if your monitoring pressures too,are you going to pull over,shut it down asap and get it towed to the trans shop if you see unsafe pressures? if the answer is yes.then have at it.if you know you'd just keep driving home anyway regardless of it's reading.....save your $ on the gauge because a gauge is only worth the time and $ to install if your going to listen to it.
if the trans is operating correctly,you'll have no real need to monitor pressures in the cab.that's more for diagnoses.
well,lets say your driving along towing,and you see the temp gauge starts to read too hot/before safe limits.you pull over and let it cool down asap.
if your monitoring pressures too,are you going to pull over,shut it down asap and get it towed to the trans shop if you see unsafe pressures? if the answer is yes.then have at it.if you know you'd just keep driving home anyway regardless of it's reading.....save your $ on the gauge because a gauge is only worth the time and $ to install if your going to listen to it.
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Well I operate heavy equipment at work and I also farm several acres... And prevention is a lot easier on the wallet than hind sight. So yeah, I'll use it and read it. I like to know what everything is doing. I stare at gauges all day for that sole purpose, not bc I like shiny things (well not only).
But the ans is, yeah it's for the trans monitoring more than something to look at.
But the ans is, yeah it's for the trans monitoring more than something to look at.
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From: Mi'kma'ki
installing a shift kit will improve low line pressure of the E40D.you might want to put this on the list too.
here's a read you'll enjoy:
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/f...n/viewall.html
there is a boost valve that can be replaced in the front pump (a good thing to do during a converter upgrade.) not sure how far your looking to go besides just monitoring (probably lower #'s than ideal anyway if no updates have been done) and man what a difference.lockup is quicker and more positive with the pressure rise.putting a gauge in to watch factory E40D pressures will probably just lead you to these things.fair warning lol.
here's a read you'll enjoy:
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/f...n/viewall.html
there is a boost valve that can be replaced in the front pump (a good thing to do during a converter upgrade.) not sure how far your looking to go besides just monitoring (probably lower #'s than ideal anyway if no updates have been done) and man what a difference.lockup is quicker and more positive with the pressure rise.putting a gauge in to watch factory E40D pressures will probably just lead you to these things.fair warning lol.
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Im kina stuck bc I have had bad experiences in the past w the diesel/automatic. And i really want a zf5.
With what ive look at a rebuild/swap of the e4od will cost about the same as a donor truck w the zf5. Its just a lot more work obviously and my wife would be happier w the auto. As it stands i probly wont do much heavy lifting w the automatiic, atleast until upgrades are made.
I think you have had this converaation before, when I first got the truck several months ago.
I will do all this (shift kit is in it already 99% sure) IF I keep the E4OD. If not then this is all just random knowledge I have thanks to you guys.
The tranny is slow to go in reverse, and shifts diff then others I've read about (inconsistent) but no slippage or burnt smells to date. So it needs some attention... Running Codes... Etc I just have t had an opp to have them ran yet but it's next on the list so HOPFULLY in the next week or so.
With what ive look at a rebuild/swap of the e4od will cost about the same as a donor truck w the zf5. Its just a lot more work obviously and my wife would be happier w the auto. As it stands i probly wont do much heavy lifting w the automatiic, atleast until upgrades are made.
I think you have had this converaation before, when I first got the truck several months ago.
I will do all this (shift kit is in it already 99% sure) IF I keep the E4OD. If not then this is all just random knowledge I have thanks to you guys.
The tranny is slow to go in reverse, and shifts diff then others I've read about (inconsistent) but no slippage or burnt smells to date. So it needs some attention... Running Codes... Etc I just have t had an opp to have them ran yet but it's next on the list so HOPFULLY in the next week or so.
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It is, but I believe it's been rebuilt. The bill of sale said it had been and it's pretty obvious from underneath that it's been out. No idea to what extent it was "rebuilt" tho or who did it.
I will say that the new transmission mount I installed today did help the brutality of the 1-2 shift, much smoother and consistent.
I will say that the new transmission mount I installed today did help the brutality of the 1-2 shift, much smoother and consistent.
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Could the pump be weak? Causing the clutch packs to delay when in reverse? If I start the truck and shift into R it takes, typically, about 30-45 sec to engage. If I let the truck run for 10min then it's more like 5-10 sec and, again typically, stays that way while it has heat built.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Ok so it has been rebuilt then.
Could be the torque converter drainback valve but that should also delay the forward engagement when first started. Alhough not as much because the forward geartrain is closer to the pump.
Ford did put out a 15% higher capacity pump for 1995 in part to deal with delayed reverse engagement (also to cope with the new powerstroke). Any ford rebuilt *should* have it already. Smaller mom & pop shops are a crap shoot however. Some do it others do only the bare minimum.
Its hard to say if the pump is bad though. If the transmission shifts fine up through the gears, I kinda doubt that would be the problem.
Is this a recent development or did the truck always take 45 seconds to pop into reverse when first started?
Could be the torque converter drainback valve but that should also delay the forward engagement when first started. Alhough not as much because the forward geartrain is closer to the pump.
Ford did put out a 15% higher capacity pump for 1995 in part to deal with delayed reverse engagement (also to cope with the new powerstroke). Any ford rebuilt *should* have it already. Smaller mom & pop shops are a crap shoot however. Some do it others do only the bare minimum.
Its hard to say if the pump is bad though. If the transmission shifts fine up through the gears, I kinda doubt that would be the problem.
Is this a recent development or did the truck always take 45 seconds to pop into reverse when first started?
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Well I bought it in Oct of last year and the po wasn't very mechanical so I believe he bought a problem that only got worse for him.
It needed several minor repairs but over all it was in good operating order.
But yes it has been this way thro the repair over the last 10 months. Also it is a bit slow going into forward gears after start up, and 1-3sec after its warm.
Going thro the gears it's fine unless you get in the throttle a bit (1/2-full). It will hold first and second until you let off the accelerator. Then it goes thro 3 and into OD a lil quick it seems. Does this all sound normal?
The OD cut out, down shift, and manual gear select (1&2) all work
Thank you guys for walking thro this with me. I really like my truck and am determined to understand as much as possible, so I apologize for the long winded replies haha
It needed several minor repairs but over all it was in good operating order.
But yes it has been this way thro the repair over the last 10 months. Also it is a bit slow going into forward gears after start up, and 1-3sec after its warm.
Going thro the gears it's fine unless you get in the throttle a bit (1/2-full). It will hold first and second until you let off the accelerator. Then it goes thro 3 and into OD a lil quick it seems. Does this all sound normal?
The OD cut out, down shift, and manual gear select (1&2) all work
Thank you guys for walking thro this with me. I really like my truck and am determined to understand as much as possible, so I apologize for the long winded replies haha