rear brake bleeding question
You can reuse the right one and turn in your left as a core for a 2001+ left one.
I have a 2000 Ex with a build date of 5/2000 that has axles recently installed from an F250 Dana 60 front and Sterling LS 10.5 in the rear. The guy who did the swap for me basically went through all 8 sets of rotors and calipers and found the best 4 of each an that is what he used. New rotors and calipers have been on the “to do” list but since this isn’t my daily driver it wasn’t pressing. Been having a small vib at about 40 mph and noticed it only starts once the truck gets warm and thought maybe I had a sticky caliper. So this weekend after a good hour drive I went around and felt all my hubs to see their temperature and noticed that the driver’s rear was almost cold to the touch, compare to the other three wheels which were very warm (as I expected). After looking at the wheels I see that both rear wheel calipers are “rear mounted) and the drivers side rotor appears to have little surface wear. It almost looks like it has road grime/rust showing on the rotor face. Here are pics of each.
Questions are:
Are these calipers mounted correctly?
Is it possible that driver’s caliper is just not working – no contact to the rotor? And if so wouldn’t I have a light on or something? Don’t drive it much so haven’t had to really test the brakes yet but would to find out the hard way.
Driver Side Rear Caliper
Passenger Side Rear Caliper
Driver Side Rear Rotor Surface (not sure if you can see the surface well enough in photo)
Passenger Side Rear Rotor Surface (looks brighter and smooth no rust/grim on surface)
Thanks



