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i replaced all rotors and pads and rear calipers bleed all the air out of lines. But I still have a soft brake paddle. I have to press my brake a good inch before it stiffens up. Is there some kind of adjustments I can make on the peddle?
I need to update my profile. I do have a 99 but I'm working on a 2006 f250. Both bleeders are on top. And fluid did not totally drain out. Kept it full as a bleed brakes. I've done the same thing on my 99 and they are great very responsive. I also have ss brake lines from crown performance on both vehicles.
I just replaced the front rotors and rebuilt all the calipers with new pads. It took quite a while to get all the air out of the system. Just when I thought the air was gone more bubbles would come out. Sounds like you still have air in the lines.
If air didn’t drop down from the master into the ABS, and the bleeder screws are up then either you still have air or nicked one of the M/C cups when bleeding.
If air didn’t drop down from the master into the ABS, and the bleeder screws are up then either you still have air or nicked one of the M/C cups when bleeding.
what happens if air drops down from the master? And how would I check or fix that?
To bleed air out of the ABS module you will need a higher end scan tool that can do a "service" bleed. The Ford IDS can do it, I believe Forscan can as well, I am unsure if Auto Enginuity can or not, but I suspect it can. Another option is to take to the dealer and have them do it, as long as all bleeders are easily opened it should not cost much. I had one done at the dealer about 4 years ago and they charged me $75.00 out the door.
You didn't change the master cylinder so there's no variation in depth of the master cylinder piston from manufacturing spec's. It will be as it was before the caliper change.
Initially you said you didn't loose fluid out of the master cylinder, so no air should have gone down into the ABS controller. If now you think the fluid could have drained below the reservoir while the calipers were off but didn't realize it, yep then you could have introduced air into the ABS controller. The proper way to bleed the ABS controller is to exercise the valves while the ABS pump is pushing fluid out the calipers, and that's done with the OBD plug in tools to electrically do that. For vehicles we could do that on, we did. But a test driver would get flogged if he let fluid drain out of the M/C.
For prototype vehicles where we did not have the proper software/equipment, we'd bleed it out as best we could, take the vehicle out on a dirt road and activate the ABS at 25mph for a few times. Bring it back on the lift, manual bleed, then go back out on the dirt. That process could take hours and a lot of fluid. It can be done, but it's work and hard to all the air out.
Many times with older vehicles if the brake pedal is pushed past it's normal travel one of the cups can get nicked on the corrosion that typically occurs in the never traveled areas of the master cylinder bore. If that happens then a new master is needed. That type of pedal drop can be moderate to long, and can feel like a slowly dropping pedal. But even OK masters can do that, sealing better on faster and harder applications.
You didn't change the master cylinder so there's no variation in depth of the master cylinder piston from manufacturing spec's. It will be as it was before the caliper change.
Initially you said you didn't loose fluid out of the master cylinder, so no air should have gone down into the ABS controller. If now you think the fluid could have drained below the reservoir while the calipers were off but didn't realize it, yep then you could have introduced air into the ABS controller. The proper way to bleed the ABS controller is to exercise the valves while the ABS pump is pushing fluid out the calipers, and that's done with the OBD plug in tools to electrically do that. For vehicles we could do that on, we did. But a test driver would get flogged if he let fluid drain out of the M/C.
For prototype vehicles where we did not have the proper software/equipment, we'd bleed it out as best we could, take the vehicle out on a dirt road and activate the ABS at 25mph for a few times. Bring it back on the lift, manual bleed, then go back out on the dirt. That process could take hours and a lot of fluid. It can be done, but it's work and hard to all the air out.
Many times with older vehicles if the brake pedal is pushed past it's normal travel one of the cups can get nicked on the corrosion that typically occurs in the never traveled areas of the master cylinder bore. If that happens then a new master is needed. That type of pedal drop can be moderate to long, and can feel like a slowly dropping pedal. But even OK masters can do that, sealing better on faster and harder applications.
thanks for the reply. To be honest I don't think fluid ever drained to the mc but it did get pretty low while I was bleeding the lines. So I'm not 100% that air didn't get into the abs system. I guess to be sure or to eliminate that possibility would be to take it to the dealer. Really appreciate the info.
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