I picked up my 95 F250 Powerstroke about a year ago and since have put a 3" downpipe, diamond eye exhaust, no cat, tony wildman tune and intake on it. From a few months after I got the truck and did the extras up until last weekend I had noticed the truck losing some power and gaining black smoke. Finally last weekend towing the jeep on the interstate I couldnt get above 55 mph without the egt's going up to 1400*.... after about an hr of this all of a sudden it opened and bam.. threw my head back in the seat and cruised at 80 the rest of the trip no problem.

On the way back home however not so lucky.. 45mph to 55 all the way home. Makes for a long drive. So I have to pull the turbo and gut the valve. How long did it take you guys to pull and put back on? It looks pretty tight in there.

 

You don't need to pull the turbo unless you want to gut the oil control rod thingy. Most don't, if it's not leaking just leave it alone.

Pull your dp off and out of the way. (3) 12 pt bolts (8mm or 10mm I don't recall) hold the EBPV housing onto the turbo. Even really rusty trucks here that housing comes off pretty easily. Once off then gut the valve, use a freeze plug to fill the hole in the bottom or do what I do and use a carriage bolt, round side up and plug the hole that way.
Pretty easy overall and is good for about 50° drop in egt's.

Of course when you're on the road all you need to do is unplug the EBPV weatherpack plug and it'll usually stay open.

 

Awesome! thanks! I'll take a look at that and see if I can get that off. So the exhaust side of the turbo is what comes off? Is that what your saying? The part that the dp attaches too? Hopefully I can get that dp back out. It was a 2 piece but I may have tightened the clamp tight enough to kink the pipe a little.

I did unplug it but its sticking shut regardless of plugged in or not

 

Let me see if I can help clarify this process. What you're going to be pulling is just the "outlet" if you will, of the exhaust side of the turbo.

Pics, worth thousands of words...

Turbo with the outlet on it and the EBPV intact. You can see the two rivets that secure the butterfly valve to the shaft. You have to grind the heads off those two rivets and then pound them out of the valve plate and the shaft, then the shaft pretty much just falls out the bottom of the outlet housing:


Turbo without the "outlet" on it (note the three bolts you will have to remove to take the outlet off):


Another pic of the turbo without the outlet on it:


Just the outlet and the hole you will have to plug with either a 1/2" freeze plug or a carriage bolt as Jim suggested:


What it will look like when you're done:


Gutting the EBPV will help not only with the EGT's but it will also spool up quicker and it will sound better too! Some people have said that it is good for a 25% improvement in flow on the exhaust side of the turbo. I don't know if that's true or not, but it's one quick and easy way to improve the efficiency of the engine.

 

Awesome! Those pictures are deff. a big help!! Now there will be a hole on each side to fill correct? Because there will be a rivet getting cut off on each side?

 

Actually there is already a cap on the top of the housing and you don't need to remove it. There is no cap on the bottom of the housing because the shaft comes out through that hole. You basically just grind the rivets out (inside the housing holding teh butterfly and the shaft together), use a hammer and punch to drive them out through the shaft, then the butterfly can be removed and the shaft just slides right out the bottom of the housing. The hole the shaft comes out of is what you plug.

 

Alright, I guess I cant visualize where the rivets are that you are talking about without ever having one of those turbos off to see what they look like. But I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out once I see it!

How long do you think it would take to do the entire process from start to finish?

 

Here, this should help:


The whole thing shouldn't take you more than an hour or so if you're mechanically inclined and handy with a die grinder. The only thing that could really complicate the process is if the three bolts are rusted in place. Soak them good with your favorite flavor of penetrating oil (I like either Kroil, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench -- in that order) and let them soak a couple of days first. You can always soak them between driving it too. The oil will burn off, but the heat and cool cycles should help work the fluid in there.

 

Awesome that helps alot! Lol thanks!

 

This link is for you

Gutting the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve - 1994-1997 Power Stroke FAQ

 

Thank you sir!!

 

You are welcome. Anytime.

 

So besides that rear bottom bolt (pain to get leverage on with a 5/16 12 point wrench ) and having to still readjust my 3" downpipe because its hitting the cab now that was pretty easy!! And you can certainly hear the turbo more out the duel exhaust! I cant wait to tow with it now too. Hopefully the egts are much better behaved! haha

 

Good to hear. It's not too bad a job, it just takes a little time that's all.