OK, its late. 12 AM CT, but just getting to the PC after supper and about half way done with my project:

everything is taken apart and We have the uppipes in (loose) and the HPOP line fitting seals in place (those are a real bugger. Time consuming). Also, the reseal kit from Riff Raff is only for the HPOP (only 2 sets) bummer as the fittings that go into the motor will have to go back in without reseal.

Here is what we are doing. (Lordy I am probably forgetting something)

New HPOP Lines
New HPOP seals & "Serviceable Plug" (Which I just realized I haven't Loc Tited yet ******!!)
New Turbo Pedestal - EBPV delete
Fuel Bowl Rebuild/reseal
Dorman Uppipes

Questions Needed ASAP:

1) Is it ok if I dont leave a full 24 hours dry time on the "non servicable plug" loc tite? It will be 12ish

2. What do you do with the turbo and the exhaust valve when you do the EBPV delete? Do you just leave the hinge/valve hang there? Do you take the valve out?! A little upset with myself that I overlooked this

3. Didnt get the entire Turbot reseal kit - just the O Rings for the pedestal. that means that I am not changing out the big o ring, the one that is 2-3" in diameter that connects to the spider. ls this ok, do I need to change it later? can I leave it? It looks like it is in good condition.

4. Not as important, but I am guessing that I need to get 2 more reseal kits (o rings and spacers etc) for the block HPO line fittings... right?

How the F!!! did anyone get 21ftlbs on the rear passenger uppipe bolt?! We followed the directions (from the resources on Riff Raff) and this just doesnt seem possible to get a full torque wrench in there. I put 21 on the front with a torque wrench and guessed by feel of torque on the back bolt. Can you untorque/take apart and then retorque these without worry of the steel gasket (wrong term but am forgetting now) being damaged?

Also, I know the dormans arent perfect, but I thougt they'd be a bit better than this. It looks like they did some grinding before I got them. Is this ok? (might be a little screwed right now because the pipes to the babys butt are already torqued)





Doing this now because the GF took a last minute flight to the Grand Canyon (literally, its a bucket list to see thing for her.) So had all the parts come in Friday, but was a little rushed with prep/planning.

Most concerned about the Turbo valve.

Let me know if you are in the Madison WI area and want to stop out! I have plenty of beer (multiple varieties, this just seemed to hit the spot today) and this handy dandy opener.



Going to seal that serviceable plug now...

 

Oh, shoot... Looks like on number 2 I am finding I may have more work to do... So either I need to buy this:Garrett High Flow Non-EBPV Exhaust Outlet
This Garrett High Flow Non-EBPV Exhaust Outlet will improve exhaust flow from the turbo

Or grind out the butterfly and put in a 3/4" freeze plug?!

That takes the wind outta my sails... Any thoughts?

 

Don't leave the EBPV just flopping, it can go closed on you. You could wire it in the open position until you can get your high flow outlet or start deleting the valve yourself.




Re-using the turbo outlet seal is just fine as long as it's intact.


I'll let others try to help with the rest

 

Alrighty, so.. Where do I get a "freeze plug"? I can check Farm and Fleet and Menards

Drill/grind these out:


Leave this


Freeze plug here:



I cant see that this area is threaded. I see that most auto places have threaded pugs. I would prefer not to do a threading job here if possible.

Do I need something like this: Dorman Freeze Plug 090-072 - Read Reviews on Dorman #090-072

Or this: Dorman AutoGrade 555-101 - Expansion Plug Steel | O'Reilly Auto Parts

How does the second one stay in? Just with some RTV? Or is there a snap ring that keeps it in place. Also, whould I be getting something that is 20 mm or 3/4 "?

 

In this forum, he indicates that you just "pound a few 3/4" plugs in"... I can do that. Best route?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...pv-delete.html

 

Or just buy a smooth head bolt about 1 1/4" long a bolt and pressure washer and be done with it. And leave the top one as is it ending fall as it has a step groove.

 

So just leave the bolt in tube. How would you secure the bolt in the housing? With the pressure washer? Not sure what that is... My buddy is saying we could just put a bolt through the bottom then put a nut on the inside. That would be a bad idea, yes? Too much lcrud would build around the nut?

 

Back wards the smooth end goes thru the inside and the nut and washer thru the outside once you delete the flap and rod.

 

Definitely could have done that. Not sure how I couldn't see what you were talking about.

FFIW - went to AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Advanced Auto, Menards and Farm and Fleet on Sunday... no one had freeze plugs.

Instead of taking the time to make a work around for the turbo, I decided to get the HPOP and fuel bowl resealed and installed. I ordered the Garrett GTP38 High Flow Outlet yesterday from Riff Raff, paid for faster shipping in hopes that I can work on it Thursday night. I am out of town this weekend and would like to have this baby roaring again. So maybe Friday I can take a half day and get things finished up.

Currently the new Ups and collector are loosely attached to the manifold. UpPipes torqued to 21ft lbs to the collector. That whole deal was certainly a 2 man job.

My last question is: reinstalling the turbo and attaching the collector is a 1 man job, right? 2 doesn't make it much easier, as it gets tight back by the turbo.

 

I used the shaft you remove for a plug. Cut a piece to length. Use a center punch around the outside to make lots of dents. this will actually make the outer diameter a little larger. Tap it in then mushroom over the end inside and out. sorry i did not take pictures.