I hav a 1978 F100. (2wd, 300 straight 6)

From my (new) alternator there ia a black and red wire to feed my battery and going to the regulator.

the red and balck wire goes into a (what i think is an inline fuse of some sort, one inch long and 1/2 square ) from one end, then split into two wire after. a yellow one that goes to the regulator and a black one (already repaired and now is a black wire) that goes on the left side of the starter solenoid.

that little black wire coming off the inline fuse is now completely #$%%^.

1) can i just run a wire from the alternator to the left side of the starter solenoid? and by pass that black

2) if not what are my option?

G

 

Absolutely not.

Replace it.

The item in question is called a fusible link and must not be bypassed for safety reasons. Before you replace it, you must find why it dropped in the first place (alternator connected backwards, etc).

 

Answer is yes you can run a new wire, but you need to add a fuse/circuit beaker or something to it so you don't burn it up. You need a fuse/circuit breaker rated at or a tad higher than your alternator is rated for.

 

I burn the wire with the torch by accident as i was working on something else. ( trying to get the @##$%$%^^& heat sensor off).

there is just not enought wire left after the fuse to rewire it...

So, what do i need to buy???

G

 

I already told you, it's called a fusible link.

If the AWG is still visible on the old fusible link, replace it with that same size. Otherwise, select a new link two AWG sizes below the wiring it protects. For example, use a 14-AWG fusible link to protect 10-AWG wire. Solder and shrink-wrap it into place; do not use the solderless butt splices that come on the replacement link.

Fusible links are used in favor of fuses or circuit breakers for these applications because fuses are too tempting for (some people) to bypass if they open; and circuit breakers are prone to failure more so than fusible links. Because it should only take dire, catastrophic situations to drop a fusible link, you don't need the convenience of a circuit breaker or inline fuse for this application.

 

Good afternoon.

well I ran a new wire from the alternator. (what i thought was the right place) with a fusible link. it took about 1/2 hr to fry it. (so maybe i did not torched it after all)

Does anyone have a picture of where the wire goes in the back of the alternator?
(i know it sound dumb)

I will take a picture of mine and post it tonight.

G

 

It's the biggest stud on the back.



Also, maybe your voltage regulator is toast

 

Here's how mine hooks up.

 

Does this truck have an ALT light or an ammeter in the dash?

 

good morning.

I have a light that goes when i fry the fused, but no meter.

here how it is currently wired.

<a href="http://s1159.photobucket.com/albums/p633/shotgun44/?action=view&amp;current=alternator.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p633/shotgun44/alternator.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

I can't help you if you don't answer my question above.

 

all i have in regard to the alternator on the dash, is the ALT red light,.

right now it is on, the fuse is fried.

G

 

Thanks for the update. If you have an ALT light, the following connections are required:

1) Large output stud of the alternator (often marked BATT, B+ or A) ties to the battery side of the starter solenoid through heavy-gauge wire and a fusible link. This wire also splits off to go to the A terminal of the regulator.

2) Stator terminal of the alternator (often marked STA) goes to the S terminal of the regulator, AND the electric-assist choke if equipped.

3) Field terminal of the alternator (often marked FLD) goes directly to the F terminal of the regulator.

4) Some alternators have a ground stud (often marked GND). If the alternator-to-regulator wiring harness has provisions for it, this goes to one of the regulator mounting studs. It's not required, but recommended (it helps close the sense loop between the alternator and regulator).

The following apply to the regulator:

1) Keyed power goes to one side of the ALT light in the dash. The other side of the ALT light comes out under the hood as a GREEN with RED stripe wire. This wire goes to the I terminal of the regulator.

2) The regulator grounds by bolting to the fenderwell which is bolted to the firewall. The firewall should be grounded to the engine block with a braided ground strap.

These are the required connections; nothing more, nothing less. Carefully verify each one of these connections first (this is required). I can already see in your picture that this is not the case since there is some "added" wire with electrical tape on the output stud. We can't move forward until your truck's wiring matches everything I have said to a tee.

 

hi

yes I added the extra wire with a fusible link to the left side of the starter selanoid, so it recharge my battery, until i figure out what is wrong.

G

 

This is my point. You can't figure out what is wrong with extra stuff in the way. The extra stuff may even be what is wrong. As I said before, restore all wiring and connections exactly as I have specified, otherwise I am of no help. This is very simple.

I can tell you based on visible inspection that the wire you added is too small anways. It's all a moot point. Get rid of all the junk and put the wiring back to factory, otherwise I'm troubleshooting two things (your wiring and the real problem) instead of just one.