glow plug swap-tips?
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,447
Likes: 5,517
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
compressed air to clean the area. use a 1/4 ratchet set to loosen, then use a piece of vacuum hose over the plug to screw it in once snug remove the vacuum hose and tighten it up.
if the insulation on the wire is bad or the connector is bad, you can replace with a crimp connector and use heat shrink tubing over the connector.
if the insulation on the wire is bad or the connector is bad, you can replace with a crimp connector and use heat shrink tubing over the connector.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
also if any get stuck easiest way to safely pull them which may work is go to Napa, etc and get a nut that will fit the GP threads, 10mm I believe, and use a sawz-all to cut the nut in half
loosen gp all the way till its stuck then put one or both sides of the nut around the threads and hold nut together with pliers, etc while using a socket to continue loosening the gp using the nut's threads.
I had 5 stuck due to carbon buildup and used PB Blaster and the nut and they came out easily when they would not come out trying to use just pliers.
loosen gp all the way till its stuck then put one or both sides of the nut around the threads and hold nut together with pliers, etc while using a socket to continue loosening the gp using the nut's threads.
I had 5 stuck due to carbon buildup and used PB Blaster and the nut and they came out easily when they would not come out trying to use just pliers.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 4
From: MI
well they came out super easy, no issues. also cleaning the cdr valve in mineral spirits, then will try to blow on it, wow everything is so accesable once the air cleaner housing is removed! Getting her first oil change and new air filter.
ill be using 1/4" drive. How tight should i go? Just nice n snug? also copper antiseize ok to use on threads?
ill be using 1/4" drive. How tight should i go? Just nice n snug? also copper antiseize ok to use on threads?
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,447
Likes: 5,517
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
snug on the glowplugs with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet.
neversieze is ok, but i did not bother with it.the first ones were in my truck for 15 years and close to 350,000 miles, and they came rite out. so i put the new ones in with just a touch of pb blaster on the threads to lube them.
neversieze is ok, but i did not bother with it.the first ones were in my truck for 15 years and close to 350,000 miles, and they came rite out. so i put the new ones in with just a touch of pb blaster on the threads to lube them.
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 1
i would use anti-sieze and just tighten them up good and snug - about as much as would feel right on a standard 3/8" combination wrench
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
Anti-seize is fine it will only make it easier next time.
For the CDR, DON"T use compressed air to blow it out, you could rupture the diaphragm. Just swish it around a bunch of times and rinse a few times, then air dry.
For the CDR, DON"T use compressed air to blow it out, you could rupture the diaphragm. Just swish it around a bunch of times and rinse a few times, then air dry.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,061
Likes: 2
sounds like it is time for a new one. can only get them from ford dealership. about $80.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 4
From: MI
fack, means 100 at least here in canada! hmm need to find an alternate source, maybe napa. the motor sounds alot louder with no air cleaner or cdr valve, but I think my "inkector knock " is louder?, its more pf a BO BO BO BO sound, a harmonic if you eill of the gregregreggreg sound of normal diesel clatter..
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
If you are blowing through the two holes where it connects to the truck, thats normal, you're supposed to be able to.
The proper test is to stick your finger in the hole on the back and rest it on the diaphragm. Then gently blow through the pinhole in the front using your mouth. If you can feel the diaphragm move, then its working.
Normally, the CDR is open so the intake sucks out some of the crankcase gases, just like a PCV valve on a gasser. However, when the throttle increases, and the pressure in the crankcase drops too much (as a negative pressure), the outside air pressure pushes the diaphragm closed. This prevents the engine from sucking too many fumes and consuming all the engine oil in the process. The CDR valve keeps the crankcase pressure at just the right balance (until it clogs up at least...). Its not the best system, but worked enough to keep the emissions people happy at the time.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Good catch, tecgod13.
A properly functioning CDR valve also helps prevent oil leaks later in life. Just like a PCV valve in a gasser, it creates a depression in the crank case instead of positive pressure. This reduces stress on all of the gaskets from the oil pan to the valve covers and valley pan, so its not just for emissions.
Unless oil consumption is high, there is no need to replace a CDR. And even then there are many other things that can cause high oil consumption so do some checking before replacing that expensive 'tuna can'.
A properly functioning CDR valve also helps prevent oil leaks later in life. Just like a PCV valve in a gasser, it creates a depression in the crank case instead of positive pressure. This reduces stress on all of the gaskets from the oil pan to the valve covers and valley pan, so its not just for emissions.
Unless oil consumption is high, there is no need to replace a CDR. And even then there are many other things that can cause high oil consumption so do some checking before replacing that expensive 'tuna can'.
Thread Starter
|
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 4
From: MI
I did as you said and blew thru the pinhole. valve works, i can feel it moving. should be ok then? Im wondering where the heck all that oil in the valley pan iscoming from?!
also what is a "normal" crank time for the engine to fire on a day like this? with all new Beru GPs, light turns on for 5-6 seconds, takesagood 2 seconds for everthing to start at once. no sputtering-just 2 seconds fast cranking and BOOM liftoff. Could this mean my compression is down?
also what is a "normal" crank time for the engine to fire on a day like this? with all new Beru GPs, light turns on for 5-6 seconds, takesagood 2 seconds for everthing to start at once. no sputtering-just 2 seconds fast cranking and BOOM liftoff. Could this mean my compression is down?