Outer Tie Rod replacement
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Joined: Jul 2012
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Outer Tie Rod replacement
Hey guys im tight on cash and was wondering how do i replace the outer tie rod on a 95 ford aerostar awd 4.0L. I have enought for the parts but not extra tools. Anyone that knows or has a tutorial on how to do it, it would be great. Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,018
Likes: 210
From: SoCal
You can replace them with simple tools: Jack, jack stand, open-end and socket wrenches, and a hammer.
The usual procedure is to remove the nut from the stud, and strike the top of the stud with the hammer to dislodge it from the spindle. The usual problem is that you do not have the room to swing the hammer, as you really need to give it a good whack. So I ended up getting one of these tie rod separators:
Pitman Arm Puller & Tie Rod Puller
It takes much less violence to dislodge the stud from the spindle with one of these relatively cheap ($10) tools.
From there on, it's remove the tie rod end with the wrenches, but count the number of turns it took to remove from the rod. When you install the new one, turn it onto the rod the same number of turns. This brings it close enough for you to take it to a shop to do a full front end alignment.
The usual procedure is to remove the nut from the stud, and strike the top of the stud with the hammer to dislodge it from the spindle. The usual problem is that you do not have the room to swing the hammer, as you really need to give it a good whack. So I ended up getting one of these tie rod separators:
Pitman Arm Puller & Tie Rod Puller
It takes much less violence to dislodge the stud from the spindle with one of these relatively cheap ($10) tools.
From there on, it's remove the tie rod end with the wrenches, but count the number of turns it took to remove from the rod. When you install the new one, turn it onto the rod the same number of turns. This brings it close enough for you to take it to a shop to do a full front end alignment.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
you can borrow the "Fork" or Puller at Autozone to do it or here's how I've replaced them in my vans:
first aplly teflon tape tightly behind where the nut is, then turn the nut away from the tie rod, only about ½" away is needed. (the teflon allows you to move the nut backwards and over it). The reason for marking where the nut was, is so you don't have to re-align the front later).
remove the cotter pin...
then loosen the top nut of the tie rod itself, bringing it flush with the top of the stud.
then mount a socket over the nut, (same size as the nut), then smack the socket several times real hard with a heavy hammer, usually the tie rod will fall off.
if you want less rebounce when smacking it, find a proper length heavy block of wood and place it under the tie rod mounting arm (spindle) and the floor, as near to the tie rod as possible, make it a tight fit, then smack the socket & nut hard. If nothing moves, then you'll need the puller.
first aplly teflon tape tightly behind where the nut is, then turn the nut away from the tie rod, only about ½" away is needed. (the teflon allows you to move the nut backwards and over it). The reason for marking where the nut was, is so you don't have to re-align the front later).
remove the cotter pin...
then loosen the top nut of the tie rod itself, bringing it flush with the top of the stud.
then mount a socket over the nut, (same size as the nut), then smack the socket several times real hard with a heavy hammer, usually the tie rod will fall off.
if you want less rebounce when smacking it, find a proper length heavy block of wood and place it under the tie rod mounting arm (spindle) and the floor, as near to the tie rod as possible, make it a tight fit, then smack the socket & nut hard. If nothing moves, then you'll need the puller.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,018
Likes: 210
From: SoCal
On my AWD van, the tie rod end stud points down, so it requires pounding UP. The problems are, trying to jam something against the spindle and the frame to prevent it from moving, and not being able to jack the corner up high enough to swing a hammer. That's why I got the separator tool. I'm not sure of the configuration on 2WD models.
I would avoid using a pickle fork, as that can damage the steering gear if you hit in the wrong direction.
I would avoid using a pickle fork, as that can damage the steering gear if you hit in the wrong direction.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 6
From: Florida
On my AWD van, the tie rod end stud points down, so it requires pounding UP. The problems are, trying to jam something against the spindle and the frame to prevent it from moving, and not being able to jack the corner up high enough to swing a hammer. That's why I got the separator tool. I'm not sure of the configuration on 2WD models.
I would avoid using a pickle fork, as that can damage the steering gear if you hit in the wrong direction.
I would avoid using a pickle fork, as that can damage the steering gear if you hit in the wrong direction.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
torch heat the tie rod stud with an aftermarket nut 3/4 way on and the spindle arm end. i use a MAPP torch.
the stud and arm hole expand breaking loose the compression rust joint.
spray the tie rod stud/nut only with a can of Freeze Spray. be sure to use one marked nonflammable, most are.
stud shrinks from hole. wack away. may require a couple apps with a good rust buster in between.
they often just drop out with no threats of metal violence
the stud and arm hole expand breaking loose the compression rust joint.
spray the tie rod stud/nut only with a can of Freeze Spray. be sure to use one marked nonflammable, most are.
stud shrinks from hole. wack away. may require a couple apps with a good rust buster in between.
they often just drop out with no threats of metal violence
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Stay away from pickle forks! They will tear the tie rod boot I understand since you're replacing it it won't matter but still.
I don't even own one too many good tie rod ends and ball joints have been destroyed by them.
Pounding on the stud is fine if you're replacing the tie rod end but you'll mushroom the threads if you're reusing it. If you must pound on it put a standard nut (not the castle nut) on top of the nut first to protect the threads.
Here's the method I've always used that doesn't involve any special tools, extra parts, or potential damage. Remove the tie rod nut completely and smack on the spindle with a hammer where the tie rod goes through a few times and it will pop loose. Same process when removing ball joints don't hit the end of the tapered threaded shaft hit what it goes through.
Pullers are okay but I can break a tie rod or ball joint loose with a hammer way quicker than anyone can set up a puller plus I don't need to buy another special tool
.
I don't even own one too many good tie rod ends and ball joints have been destroyed by them.
Pounding on the stud is fine if you're replacing the tie rod end but you'll mushroom the threads if you're reusing it. If you must pound on it put a standard nut (not the castle nut) on top of the nut first to protect the threads.
Here's the method I've always used that doesn't involve any special tools, extra parts, or potential damage. Remove the tie rod nut completely and smack on the spindle with a hammer where the tie rod goes through a few times and it will pop loose. Same process when removing ball joints don't hit the end of the tapered threaded shaft hit what it goes through.
Pullers are okay but I can break a tie rod or ball joint loose with a hammer way quicker than anyone can set up a puller plus I don't need to buy another special tool
.
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