Hey guys new to the forum. I would be lieing if I said i havent been creeping around for quite some time. I have had a few problems in the past and have been able to fix them by searching your forum and coming up with the answer. This time I am stumped. I have an 04 Diesel with 316000 miles. I have had the truck for about 6 months and besides having to put new batteries and a ficm in it when I got it, nothing else too serious. Heres the deal. About a week ago I started the truck up and it had a miss. I thought it was weird but figured hey maybe i got some bad fuel and it would go away. I have a 40 minute drive to work and it didnt. I will describe it the best I can. Cold starting in the morning it does it worse. It will run then miss maybe 2 seconds good then a miss and when it misses it blows a nice puff of bluish black smoke out the tailpipe. The smoke smells horribly of diesel. Assuming it helps to know everything, when it turns over in the morning there is sort of a dead spot in the cranking, meaning it will rrrrr rrrrr rrrrr stop rrrrr start. Almost like it vapor locks or something. There is a slight hesitation when I get into the pedal but I dont feel any real lack of power upon acceleration and no bucking or jerking at freeway speeds with the cruisecontrol on. After my 40 minute drive to work, I will stop in the parking lot or a traffic light and the miss is still there but not quite as bad and no visible smoke but I can still smell diesel. It sounds like a popping noise coming out of the air intake. Like literally someone popping popcorn. Im thinking injector because it gets a little better after driving it a while. Im hoping its not a bent valve or pushrod. I have checked ficm voltage. Constant 48v. The day it started, I changed the oil and fuel filters hoping it would fix it but no difference at all. Ran injector cleaner through it, no difference. Unplugged the ICP no change. Unplugged the EGR no difference. Pulled the EGR, not very dirty because I just cleaned it a few weeks prior for preventative maintenance. The bottom end of the truck is original to the 316000 miles. passenger head has been changed probably a year or so ago due to leaking head gaskets. ARP bolts and new gaskets at that time. 8 new injectors 30000 miles ago done at ford dealership with the new head and gaskets both sides.
Ok that is what I have for you, now I guess give me your best guesses as to what it is. Im hoping there are a few more free checks to do myself. I do not have any engine diagnostic equipment besides a mac multimeter. I know I will have to take it to the shop for them to tell me what it is. I am very mechanically inclined and have no hesitation pulling heads or injectors but I know I need to know what is bad before I proceed. Thanks so much in advance as I know how good you guys are to the members here

Mike

 

Is the truck throwing any codes at all..... does your multimeter have the ability to check codes? Without a bit more info it's really hard to say what it is. I would have guessed an injector off the top of my head but you have replaced them all recently. When you did the injectors and headwork did you upgrade the dummy-plugs and stand-pipes?

 

no coolant loss or smell. EGR Cooler was done a while ago. Will the scanner at autozone give me those codes?

 

Seeing as it was done at stealership I would think so. I didnt pay for it, I just have the reciept from the guy I got the truck from.

 

I would buy a scanner of some sort..... Scangauge II is what everyone recommends here cuz it's cheap (approx $150) and reads most of the codes. If you want something flashier get an Edge Insight CTS..... I love mine!

 

Call the dealership and ask for an OASIS report. It will show "exactly" what work was done on the truck..... especially under warranty. Plus it gives you part numbers so you know if you got the "up-dated" Ford parts.

 

will do thanks bud.

 

what is a good scanner to buy

 

Recommend running a quick check to see if you have a base engine problem - bent push rods, etc. With the ignition key off, run the starter and listen for an even crank.

This video shows this test -
If the base engine test shows a problem, you could run a cylinder contribution test or actual compression test to identify the problem cylinder.

Lou Braun