I got my 6.7 in april and would like to do more rust prevention on it as I will be running this truck ten years or so in the middle of the rust belt. The selling dealer did a little rust proofing; looks like they sprayed the outside of all the door and tailgate seems. Looking for your experiances/thoughts on ongoing maintance. I have a lot of cavity wax in stock I can spray into the rockers doors wheelwells etc. I have also been advised by an old body man to use motor oil to saturate all areas of concern before every winter. Trying to decide which direction to take. Thanks in advance.

 

Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor I have used it many times in Chicago on my old trucks and it works great. For wash areas I would get the Fluid film gel, the thinner spray tends to wash off with road spray.

 

LPS3: LPS 3 Corrosion Inhibitor, Anti Rust: LPS Labs
I had the entire underside of my truck sprayed down 8 monhs ago (except exhaust) and it's still 'sticky'. I'l probably have it done every 2-3 years.

 

i just painted my drives shafts, axles and rear frame section with Eastwood products. I wire brushed and used a small sand blaster on everything, then i used rust converter first
Eastwood Rust Converter - Convert Rust in One Step
then i used rust encapsulator
Rust Encapsulator - Paint Over Rust - Stop Rust and Corrosion
after it dried for a day i bought a quart of flat black rustolem paint and sprayed everything

 

Posted this back on 8/11/12......There is another thread which we discussed the many ways of rust prevention...
"I just had Ziebart do the 1,2,3 on mine. They put it on a lift & power wash the crap out of the undercarriage. Once dry with compressed air they spray an encapsulator in every nook & cranny. That dries then they hit with the rust proofing. What a day and night difference. My 08 was just starting to show signs of corrosion around the edges of all the air holes punched out in the under body and various other mounting points and other areas. The power washing blew that down to the metal. The encapsulator seals it and converts/neutralizes the oxidation to an inert black spot. Then the undercoating further seals it off. I know the owner so I was able to watch the process.
Then I had them do the inner panel sheet metal protection. It’s most likely LPS3 or Fluid Film as it has a waxy like residue. They got into the doors, the tail-gate, the box, hood ribs, inner front fenders etc...Should last a while now. The price includes a touch-up annually & he tossed a window tint job in for free.
The biggest thing I do living in the rust belt is religiously, even when it’s snowing out, rinse it off as soon as I get home. I'm talking bent over with the hose rinsing all the inners. I have a hot/cold bib in the garage. I get the water everywhere especially the bed rails, inner fender wells, drain holes in the doors & gate and under the door seals etc...My neighbor’s think I’m a nut case, they’re probably right. Get under your truck and get familiar with the hiding spots for dirt/salt. And look at another truck that’s already rotting. You’ll see what I'm talkin about. Then you not looking for the trouble spots when its 30* out snowing and usually dark.
I have a 95 GC Jeep that’s just now showing rust through in their typical spots. That’s 18 years of winter. Most 95s around here are already rotted & crushed. It has the electronic rust controller on it from new which I’m sure helped. I did some homework on a similar electronic sacrificial anode inhibitor. They sound good too. I might add that into the mix too. Expensive but so is a new truck.
The dirt holds the salt and moisture in so by keeping the inner structures clean it helps. Some will argue keeping it wet isn’t good either while I somewhat agree, I say better than salt.
To answer your question no one thing will keep the rust out, you need to do all the above starting with cleaning the hell out of the underside and all inner panels. Then apply the encapsulator and paint over that? Or if you can afford it do the Ziebart thing. From your pictures it looks like just surface rust and the seams are just starting to rust. Get at it now don’t wait."

 

heres my body joints i did last year

 

the dark black is the top coat of rust encapsulator, and the lighter see through looking spots is the rust converter that neutralizes bare and rusty metal to a non porus surface

 

The best approach is a combination of rust proofing and Fluid Film. I have shipped many gallons of the bulk form to folks for treating inside door panels and covers, as well as undercarraiges.. The aerosol is the most convenient application and as long as it isn't in a direct spray holds pretty well. Surf to: Fluid Film® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor look for familiar names. Rumor has it that FTE is a discount code some places.

 

Good info guys! The truck was undercoated as well so I won't paint the seams for now at least. I think I will do the Fluid film stuff-website said its sold at John Deere dealers and brother in law just so happens to be a John Deere tech, which means dealer cost for my cheap ****.

 

The best rust proofing I have ever seen was a car with a leaking rear seal on the transmission. It sprayed the under carriage with transmission fluid. This went on for years. The car owner just kept topping off the trans. Once cleaned up, the car looked great.

 

ATF is about 10wt oil - works great for rustproofing - fill a pump oiler with it, and shoot it in doors and fenderwell lip areas.

One key point is that no rustproofing lasts forever. You need to get the car on a lift and look around 1x/year and look for new signs of rust. It's when you let a car 'go' for 3-5 years and the rust gets way ahead of you that you're in trouble.

 

I can only imagin the look the look on the service writers face when I tell him my complaint is that the output shaft seal doesn't leak.....