e4od codes from tranny shop
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Senior User
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e4od codes from tranny shop
Wondering if I can get help knowing where to start with these. First ill start with the history of the trans. I have had it rebuilt about 2 years ago and had the torque converter and the flywheel replaced about 4 months ago. Wire harness end to the tranny replaced and flashing od light resolved about that time. I t has been flawless for a few months but now the od light flashes but only so often (twice a day in a 8 hr day) but with my experience this will get worse. Here are the codes they (same tranny shop who I do trust) came up with.1st-code 23 filp sensor 2nd-code 14 pip sensor 3rd- code 29 open vss 4th- code 43 ego lean at w.o.t
They said the tps should be set at .9 engine off key on. Is that setting correct because ive heard different numbers on here. Please help and thanks
They said the tps should be set at .9 engine off key on. Is that setting correct because ive heard different numbers on here. Please help and thanks
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
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From: Denver, CO
All the FIPL (what a TPS is called on our trucks) info you could want thanks to Fordf250
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ions-only.html
How is your tach working? That's one of about 1000 things that can affect this tranny. Very common flashing OD light cause.
Good luck.
Mac.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ions-only.html
How is your tach working? That's one of about 1000 things that can affect this tranny. Very common flashing OD light cause.
Good luck.
Mac.
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 6
From: Denver, CO
You would know if it was bad. It usually lays flat at idle and jumps to working right with throttle when bad. A tell tale sign of a bad tach sensor, (besides tach jumpy or not working) is bare wires at the base of the sensor where they go into the big nut on the timing gear cover next to the oil fill tube on the front of the motor.
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
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From: Denver, CO
So you should be fine there. Do you have a meter to check your FIPL? If not I would print out the FIPL adjustment procedure in the above referenced post to take to your trusted trans mechanic and inform of the proper way to adjust the FIPL, although I would be leery that he didn't already know this with as many E40D's are out there.
That's just my $0.02
Mac.
That's just my $0.02
Mac.
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Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 6
From: Denver, CO
In reading further, the trans. shop says FIPL should be at .9 at no throttle key on engine off. Is that where it is set? if so, that is a little low. It should be at 1.2 in that position. Read the entire article including the additions at the very end. The engine should completely warm, and the idle set properly.
Good luck again,
Mac.
Good luck again,
Mac.
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Thanks I did read the article and my idle runs about 1000. How do I bring the idle down?.
The tps is set now at .89 and this is where it has been for all these months(3) My meter is just a digital and I set it on 20 (Whatever that stands for) to get the reading
The tps is set now at .89 and this is where it has been for all these months(3) My meter is just a digital and I set it on 20 (Whatever that stands for) to get the reading
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
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reset idle rpm to about 700-750. idle screw is on passenger side of IP next to were the throttle cable connects to.
TPS voltage is WAY TOO LOW.
code 14 is engine rpm sensor circuit fault. so check out the wiring on your rpm sensor.
code 23 was from not holding the throttle at WOT during the code scan. nothing to worry about there.
code 43 is TPS below idle spec.
so, reset idle speed. then re-adjust TPS voltage, check out rpm sensor harness. my friend has a bad rpm sensor and his does the same as yours does. o/d light will randomly blink for short periods, but the shifting stays normal.
TPS voltage is WAY TOO LOW.
code 14 is engine rpm sensor circuit fault. so check out the wiring on your rpm sensor.
code 23 was from not holding the throttle at WOT during the code scan. nothing to worry about there.
code 43 is TPS below idle spec.
so, reset idle speed. then re-adjust TPS voltage, check out rpm sensor harness. my friend has a bad rpm sensor and his does the same as yours does. o/d light will randomly blink for short periods, but the shifting stays normal.
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Ok guys, I set the idle down to about 8 and will drop it to 7 I also got the tps set 1.02 and the wire for the rpm sensor sure enough upon further investigation was possibly grounding on the motor. And also grounding to the negitive battery post with the meter was something I wasnt doingall the other times I fooled with it soooooooooooooooooooooo It now runs like it never has and shifts much better with acurate downshift points and has MUCH more power. and 94idi?????? you hit all the codes(you da man). Thanks to all,,,,,,, and as usual always prompt and accurate on fte
By the way I found the idle screw on my own daaaaaaaa
By the way I found the idle screw on my own daaaaaaaa
Fleet Owner
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From: Mi'kma'ki
now you can get her shifting even better by bringing voltage up to 1.20 or this what you meant,just a mistype when you posted 1.02?...probably.
how's the WOT voltage? i got tinkering with mine some more today to get it closer to the 4.5 the article recommends.
what i notice is a greatly improved converter lockup/unlock state by just bringing the WOT voltage up to 4.15ish (i only had 4 v before) while keeping the 1.2 idle.it's a hard little bugger to set perfect,but it sure was worth spending a little more time on today.nothing like having the converter lockup on ya when trying to start out on a hill and wishing it didn't lock yet.now she's staying open much longer when loaded heavy and boosting like a good ol gal.
how's the WOT voltage? i got tinkering with mine some more today to get it closer to the 4.5 the article recommends.
what i notice is a greatly improved converter lockup/unlock state by just bringing the WOT voltage up to 4.15ish (i only had 4 v before) while keeping the 1.2 idle.it's a hard little bugger to set perfect,but it sure was worth spending a little more time on today.nothing like having the converter lockup on ya when trying to start out on a hill and wishing it didn't lock yet.now she's staying open much longer when loaded heavy and boosting like a good ol gal.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 3,061
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now you can get her shifting even better by bringing voltage up to 1.20 or this what you meant,just a mistype when you posted 1.02?...probably.
how's the WOT voltage? i got tinkering with mine some more today to get it closer to the 4.5 the article recommends.
what i notice is a greatly improved converter lockup/unlock state by just bringing the WOT voltage up to 4.15ish (i only had 4 v before) while keeping the 1.2 idle.it's a hard little bugger to set perfect,but it sure was worth spending a little more time on today.nothing like having the converter lockup on ya when trying to start out on a hill and wishing it didn't lock yet.now she's staying open when loaded heavy and boosting like a good ol gal.
how's the WOT voltage? i got tinkering with mine some more today to get it closer to the 4.5 the article recommends.
what i notice is a greatly improved converter lockup/unlock state by just bringing the WOT voltage up to 4.15ish (i only had 4 v before) while keeping the 1.2 idle.it's a hard little bugger to set perfect,but it sure was worth spending a little more time on today.nothing like having the converter lockup on ya when trying to start out on a hill and wishing it didn't lock yet.now she's staying open when loaded heavy and boosting like a good ol gal.
