Volt gauge
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
Volt gauge
On my 1990 Areostar, 4.0 engine, 2wd, with 300k miles, the amp gauge has started to go up and down at intermittent times. Alternator was replaced about 6 months ago. The only other thing the was changed was the A/C compressor was removed about the same time. Belt does not squeak and is new. Last Sunday, on the way home from Portland, the gauge was moving up and down about 3-4 amps on the gauge, when the engine died.. She acted like it was running out of gas, full tank. Took a bit of time to restart, but once it did, it ran good all the way home. Any ideas on what is going on with the gauge? Still no idea about the engine dieing. I did replace the filter and has not died sense.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
Let the van idle and unhook one battery cable. If the engine dies, the alternator is bad. If it continues to run, replace the battery cable and put a voltmeter across the two battery terminals. You should see 14.3 volts. The diodes in the alternator can be intermittently acting up. They may act fine when the engine is cool but start getting 'cranky' when the engine compartment gets hot. If your 6 month old alternator was a rebuilt unit, be aware not all components are replaced during the rebuild. The unit may still be under warranty.
These early '90s vans also had problems with the main connector at the alternator. They would become brittle, especiall the locking tabs and fail to stay firmly connected. A weak connection overheats the connector to the point of melting. If your connector is the original I would suggest you might have a simple connection problem. You can obtain a replacement pigtail from part stores or auto electrical shops that rebuild starters and alternators. (You have to splice it to the harness and there is not a lot of room unless you remove several underhood obstructions.)
These early '90s vans also had problems with the main connector at the alternator. They would become brittle, especiall the locking tabs and fail to stay firmly connected. A weak connection overheats the connector to the point of melting. If your connector is the original I would suggest you might have a simple connection problem. You can obtain a replacement pigtail from part stores or auto electrical shops that rebuild starters and alternators. (You have to splice it to the harness and there is not a lot of room unless you remove several underhood obstructions.)
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
Thanks for the replies. Had the alt checked today, 14.3 volts at the battery at idle. But the spring loaded idle pulley seams to bottoming out. So I may not have full tension on the belt. I will pull the pug on the alt and check it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
As it turned out, the breather vent tube was pressing, resting on the alt. plug. Once it was rerouted the hose, all is good once more. Thanks guys. And replacing the fuel filter seems to have helped the other problem.
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