3G alternator upgrade problems
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New User
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
3G alternator upgrade problems
Hey, so I changed out my old alternator with the one from my '93 Sable 3.8 which is suppose to be a 3G alternator. I saw in one of the forums that this could be done and it was pretty easy except that i had to remove the top mounting bracket, get a slightly larger belt, and rewire one of the two plugs. The one plug that I rewired needed to change to a bolt connection that has a 4 gauge wire I think, but i didnt have 4 so i put four 10 gauge wires as a solution. So I get that all done and charge the battery, I start the truck up, the voltmeter on the dash was high. So I take it for a spin and it seemed alright, all the lights are slightly brighter than before because the 3G is 130amps instead of 65amps, and then the check engine light comes on. I get back home shut the truck off and turn it back on and it starts and POP, i check the voltmeter and its back were it was when the other alt. was on, and the battery light is on.
So what happened? Is the wiring strong enough to hold the extra amps? Could the voltage regulator be the problem or something else?
So what happened? Is the wiring strong enough to hold the extra amps? Could the voltage regulator be the problem or something else?
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Biloxi MS
Originally Posted by speedofmouth
So I take it for a spin and it seemed alright, all the lights are slightly brighter than before because the 3G is 130amps instead of 65amps, and then the check engine light comes on.
Neither alternator puts out more than 20 to 30 amps unless you have a major drain somewhere on your electrical system - The only noticeable difference between normal alternators and high output alternators is the HO variety will give you dimmer headlights at idle, because while they DO put out more at higher RPM's, they actually put out a good deal less at lower RPM's
Don
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New User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
so its probably the wiring then, cause the original connector had two power cables that were 10 gauge. so the wiring now goes from the alternator one 4 gauge, to four 10 gauge, to two 10 gauge, to the electrical distributor bolt which is connected to the positive side of the battery.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,071
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From: Concord, New Hampshire
sounds like you messed up as signal wire, there is a wire that tells the regulator to turn on and off, and how much to charge, you probly messed it up somehow,
Why not just buy the right alternator for the truck, with the proper connections??
Why not just buy the right alternator for the truck, with the proper connections??
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New User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
well im 18 and dont have a job so cash is tight, and the truck isnt running so i cant get to the bank or the parts store, and anyways the right alternator for the truck is crap.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: South Dakota
Does the replacement alternator you installed have a built in voltage regulator? I know my 1990 Ford Taurus, which is basically the same as a Sable has an external voltage regulator, they may have changed them by 1993 though. It sounds as though you may be running without a voltage regulator.
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New User
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
I dont think thats the problem. The connector that I dindt splice was reused in the new alternator and it goes to the voltage regulator. I'm pretty sure now that the wire i used for the rectifier was too small, and i should have replaced the whole length to the solenoid bolt because it says in the instructions that the old rectifier wire had a fusable link, that might have been what i heard POP. So i'll go put some heavier gauge wire on and see if that does the trick.
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Here are two pointers to websites of other folks who have done the same upgrade. One of the whole points of the upgrade is to get away from the "two 10 guage wires".
I suggest you go to autozone or whatever and buy a 4 or 6 guage battery cable wire with lugs already formed on each end. These only cost about $5.00. This doesn't provide a fusible link for this particular connection but you need a beefier one than the original 14 guage to use this alternator.
http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/alt1.html
http://soderblom.net/bronco/tech/
The second link also offers a different upgrade -- to a "large case" 100 amp alternator. That particular choice has better low RPM current than the 130 amp 3rd gen. However, either one is better, even at low RPM, than your current 65 amp 2nd gen.
You may not have gotten the voltage sense wire hooked up correctly in your first crack at the upgrade. That would cause excessive alternator voltage, super-bright lights, and a burned fusible link. Look at the websites and double check your wiring. Put a voltmeter from the alternator output terminal to battery ground. Rev up the engine and see how high she goes. If you are seeing 15 volts or more, the alternator is running wide open.
I suggest you go to autozone or whatever and buy a 4 or 6 guage battery cable wire with lugs already formed on each end. These only cost about $5.00. This doesn't provide a fusible link for this particular connection but you need a beefier one than the original 14 guage to use this alternator.
http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/alt1.html
http://soderblom.net/bronco/tech/
The second link also offers a different upgrade -- to a "large case" 100 amp alternator. That particular choice has better low RPM current than the 130 amp 3rd gen. However, either one is better, even at low RPM, than your current 65 amp 2nd gen.
You may not have gotten the voltage sense wire hooked up correctly in your first crack at the upgrade. That would cause excessive alternator voltage, super-bright lights, and a burned fusible link. Look at the websites and double check your wiring. Put a voltmeter from the alternator output terminal to battery ground. Rev up the engine and see how high she goes. If you are seeing 15 volts or more, the alternator is running wide open.
Last edited by fefarms; Mar 10, 2005 at 02:12 PM.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Ok so I rewired the alternator harness, and everything is running fine except when I took it for a test drive after a minute the check engine light came on, is that just the computer not knowing about the extra amps? and can the rest of the electrical system handle it? Also do I need a fusable link in the rectifier (Power) line or is that just a precaution?
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,071
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From: Concord, New Hampshire
the computer wont sense the AMPS. your not using all of them for the most part anyway. it may be something else, maby related to the mix up before, read the codes and see what you get its probly just something stupid.
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New User
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
I checked my battery and its 12.67 volts with the truck off, 14.79 volts at idle w/ nothing on, and 14.77 volts w/ headlights, heater and sterio on. That looks good to me, anything between 12 and 15 is good right?
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New User
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From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Oh, also could the check engine light be from me breaking a pair of small hoses when i was installing the alternator. The hoses went to a canister on the passenger side on top of the wheel well, one was red and one was black and it looks like they go behind the engine, I thought it was for the a/c but since it dosnt work anymore anyways i didnt think it mattered. They might also be part of the old Natural gas setup that i removed. Anybody know?
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