Alternator going down
Well unfortunitally Im having the worst experience Ive ever had with a purchase.. They recieved my payment but then they dont answer their phone,wont return my email,voicemail or facebook message regarding a simple request of a tracking number of the order.
That's odd because every time I called Stan would pick up on the other end. Maybe he is on holidays and they have a flunky answering the phones (or in this case, not answering the phones). I had to wait just over a week before they shipped mine because I had it powder coated. If you got yours powdercoated you will need to wait for them to finish the coating before they give you the tracking number. On another note.... I had next day delivery and I ordered from Alberta Canada where I am used to seeing up to 2 week delivery times.
Yeah. He told me the alternator was a 130amp from O'reilly. I'm just trying to get something that will be stable until I have the money to get that 270amp alternator, cause they've cut hours at work so my next 2 checks are going to be kind of light..
Man, if cash is tight you don't have to rush out and get the "top-dog" Dc sells...... even their stocker replacement unit will be better than what you just bought. Their lowest model is a 185 amp OEM High Output and at idle it charges anywhere from 100 to 120 amps. Our crappy factory alternators only charge at around 65 amps at idle.... so a huge difference.
The 185 amp OEM High Output sells for $269.95 plus $17.99 flat fee for shipping if you are in USA... so it will save you hundreds off the "top-dog" 270XP and plus you don't need to worry about upgrading your grounds and charge cables.
If you can swing it though, I would try for the 190 amp OEM High Output..... at idle it puts out between 120 to 140 amps..... more than double what our stocker 110's produce. It still uses all the factory wiring so no upgrades necessary there and it's only $70.00 more than the 185.
The 185 amp OEM High Output sells for $269.95 plus $17.99 flat fee for shipping if you are in USA... so it will save you hundreds off the "top-dog" 270XP and plus you don't need to worry about upgrading your grounds and charge cables.
If you can swing it though, I would try for the 190 amp OEM High Output..... at idle it puts out between 120 to 140 amps..... more than double what our stocker 110's produce. It still uses all the factory wiring so no upgrades necessary there and it's only $70.00 more than the 185.
Yeah, I guess that's always an option too. I just always try to get the very best thing I can for my truck, so obviously my first choice would of been the 270.
I just wish for now I could figure out this battery light.
I just wish for now I could figure out this battery light.
I was finally able to speak with Stan. Nice guy.. Turns out they ran out of parts and are unable to make aternators until late next week so I took the refund option.. I found a local company that makes 200 amp alts for a fraction of the cost..Im crossing my fingers it holds up...Im sure Ill end up getting a DC power as spare..Ill put in a glass case on the garage wall with "break incase of emergency" sticker.
I was finally able to speak with Stan. Nice guy.. Turns out they ran out of parts and are unable to make aternators until late next week so I took the refund option.. I found a local company that makes 200 amp alts for a fraction of the cost..Im crossing my fingers it holds up...Im sure Ill end up getting a DC power as spare..Ill put in a glass case on the garage wall with "break incase of emergency" sticker.
By the way.... I like the pickup! That bright white looks awesome if it's done up right and you did a good job!
Yeah.... gotta say I was a bit surprised when you said you were having trouble with them cuz their service was top-notch when I used them. Not to mention the shortest turn-around time as far as shipping goes.
By the way.... I like the pickup! That bright white looks awesome if it's done up right and you did a good job!
By the way.... I like the pickup! That bright white looks awesome if it's done up right and you did a good job!
Yeah Stan was cool as can be.. It happens. Just doesnt meet my timeframe. Its actually a good excuse to upsize to a better unit and have it on standby.. Thanks. The previous owner did the 2010 conversion. I just lifted it is all. It has its flaws but Im checking off the list. Only problem is this forum increases MY LIST.
I'm thinking about getting a voltmeter to keep an eye on this until I can get a new alternator.
Do y'all recommend a specific brand? Does an auto parts store carry a decent one for a decent price?
Also, what would be the proper procedure for testing both batteries, and the alternator?
Sorry about all the questions, I'm young and don't know a whole lot, but do plan on going to diesel mechanic school and trying to learn stuff before, so y'alls help is appreciated a lot!
Do y'all recommend a specific brand? Does an auto parts store carry a decent one for a decent price?
Also, what would be the proper procedure for testing both batteries, and the alternator?
Sorry about all the questions, I'm young and don't know a whole lot, but do plan on going to diesel mechanic school and trying to learn stuff before, so y'alls help is appreciated a lot!
I'm thinking about getting a voltmeter to keep an eye on this until I can get a new alternator.
Do y'all recommend a specific brand? Does an auto parts store carry a decent one for a decent price?
Also, what would be the proper procedure for testing both batteries, and the alternator?
Sorry about all the questions, I'm young and don't know a whole lot, but do plan on going to diesel mechanic school and trying to learn stuff before, so y'alls help is appreciated a lot!
Do y'all recommend a specific brand? Does an auto parts store carry a decent one for a decent price?
Also, what would be the proper procedure for testing both batteries, and the alternator?
Sorry about all the questions, I'm young and don't know a whole lot, but do plan on going to diesel mechanic school and trying to learn stuff before, so y'alls help is appreciated a lot!
You need a ScanGaugeII
The thing is your Alternator will be at its weakest when running and HOT so Kinda hard to just Pull Over and Pop out and throw the DVM On It so a ScanGaugeII is Needed
You should have just Installed the alternator yourself and with the extra money you saved on Not paying a Mechanic went with a DC Power 185amp Its built on the same Platform as the 270amp DC and probably lasted the Life of the truck anyway. Do you have any electronics that require that big alt anyway???
We could have walked you threw Alternator install its Easy If your thinking about being a Deisel mechanic your gona have to get your feet wet at some Point
so if the new CHINA Alt is dead Take it off trade it in its only 2 Bolts
I can show you a Pic on the tensioner makes it easy
The way it stands Now Your in risk Of a High Dollar Failure Playing with it
FICM Injectors Batterys ALL AT Risk Now
Trade the China Alt In I will Walk you threw it Hell Id come change it for Ya Where you Live???
I'm with Benny dude..... get a Scangauge and monitor your truck... will save you ton in the end. If you had changed you alternator yourself you would have paid for a Scangauge but you now know for next time. Pretty good help on this forum!
Hate to be the devils advocate but thought I might bring everyone back down to reality here.
I just read every post in this thread and I want everyone to know right off I love my 250A XP alternator that I paid $539.95 for 6 months ago.
At the moment it's sitting inside a box that say's Duralast all over it. That's the box from the temporary replacement alternator I just bought at Autozone today to get me by until DC Power sends me a replacement. It lasted 6 months until this morning. Upon starting my voltage went up to 17v and the battery light came on. My batteries are just over a week old and all of the cables are goodandtighten (German tight). The only factor I can think of that caused the sudden death my my 250A Alternator is I just did a 900 mile round trip to So Cal and back from the Bay Area and it was hot the whole trip like Well over 100 most of the way in both directions. Several hours where at 107 outside. I do have the complete fan shroud assembly in place and my fan works properly.
There is no doubt the 250A is worth it, as I can tell right off, the oem replacement barely whimpers along at idle compared to the DC Power unit.
The oem unit also weights about 1/2 as much.
Ok thank you for letting me vent. I feel much better, it's been a long day.
I just read every post in this thread and I want everyone to know right off I love my 250A XP alternator that I paid $539.95 for 6 months ago.
At the moment it's sitting inside a box that say's Duralast all over it. That's the box from the temporary replacement alternator I just bought at Autozone today to get me by until DC Power sends me a replacement. It lasted 6 months until this morning. Upon starting my voltage went up to 17v and the battery light came on. My batteries are just over a week old and all of the cables are goodandtighten (German tight). The only factor I can think of that caused the sudden death my my 250A Alternator is I just did a 900 mile round trip to So Cal and back from the Bay Area and it was hot the whole trip like Well over 100 most of the way in both directions. Several hours where at 107 outside. I do have the complete fan shroud assembly in place and my fan works properly.
There is no doubt the 250A is worth it, as I can tell right off, the oem replacement barely whimpers along at idle compared to the DC Power unit.
The oem unit also weights about 1/2 as much.
Ok thank you for letting me vent. I feel much better, it's been a long day.
But in DC Defense thats the first one Iv saw Fail on FTE and I seeen alot of folks Install DC Powwre Alt
But I saw 2 China Alts Fail this week Alone here on FTE
the Big Picture is still In DC Power Favor IMO
But I saw 2 China Alts Fail this week Alone here on FTE
the Big Picture is still In DC Power Favor IMO
I was thinking about getting an Edge cts until this happened.
I've changed out the alternator on my '81 camaro before, and I've changed plenty of batteries. I just figured I'd have a mechanic do it this time for kind of a warranty deal.
I guess I'll just trade this alternator in and get a new one with the lifetime warranty and hope it works until I have the money for a DC.
Once again though, I don't really have a lot of money right now, much less enough to get a Scangauge until I get this fixed, so that's kind of why I was wanting to get a cheap voltmeter just to check up on the volts until I can afford the fancy stuff.
Also, I live in Texas.
I've changed out the alternator on my '81 camaro before, and I've changed plenty of batteries. I just figured I'd have a mechanic do it this time for kind of a warranty deal.
I guess I'll just trade this alternator in and get a new one with the lifetime warranty and hope it works until I have the money for a DC.
Once again though, I don't really have a lot of money right now, much less enough to get a Scangauge until I get this fixed, so that's kind of why I was wanting to get a cheap voltmeter just to check up on the volts until I can afford the fancy stuff.
Also, I live in Texas.








