Alternator going down
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I'm not seeing this wire upgrade kit anywhere on their website, but I did find the battery cable I think. Is this it? https://www.dcpowerinc.com/universal...cable-kit.html
Thats It spendy little Guy isnt it $$70.00$$
Go to a Car stereo shop they can hook you up for cheaper
I also think NAPA can make you a setup like that too
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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I never understood why diesels have 2 batteries. Are both batteries connected together? Or is one just for backup? Which ones supply power to which? Basically, how do these things work?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 754
Likes: 2
From: AB,Can
I'm not seeing this wire upgrade kit anywhere on their website, but I did find the battery cable I think. Is this it? https://www.dcpowerinc.com/universal...cable-kit.html
Here is a comparison of the OEM wiring and the wiring that DC Power recommends;
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 754
Likes: 2
From: AB,Can
I agree, expensive for a battery cable. That guy said to get a 75" one, this one is 4' so that would be 48" haha.
I never understood why diesels have 2 batteries. Are both batteries connected together? Or is one just for backup? Which ones supply power to which? Basically, how do these things work?
I never understood why diesels have 2 batteries. Are both batteries connected together? Or is one just for backup? Which ones supply power to which? Basically, how do these things work?
You should still get a chunk of 75" 1/0 cable to go from one battery to the other. Remember, they recommend the 1/0 wire for grounding and charging and our factory setup is a bit smaller. The 75" gives you a bit of excess to go around a coolant filter and whatever other goodies you have hiding under your hood. The factory grounds are all 1 gauge already so your good on that end.... just the + leads need to be worked on a bit.
On another note.... you can cut your costs by less then 1/2 if you just buy the cable from Trystar (the company that supplies DC Power with their awesome cable) get a hammer wedge crimping tool ($20) buy the ends for the cable and put them on yourself. Entirely up to you!
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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The 4' cable you are looking at goes from the alternator to the passenger side battery only.
You should still get a chunk of 75" 1/0 cable to go from one battery to the other. Remember, they recommend the 1/0 wire for grounding and charging and our factory setup is a bit smaller. The 75" gives you a bit of excess to go around a coolant filter and whatever other goodies you have hiding under your hood. The factory grounds are all 1 gauge already so your good on that end.... just the + leads need to be worked on a bit.
On another note.... you can cut your costs by less then 1/2 if you just buy the cable from Trystar (the company that supplies DC Power with their awesome cable) get a hammer wedge crimping tool ($20) buy the ends for the cable and put them on yourself. Entirely up to you!
You should still get a chunk of 75" 1/0 cable to go from one battery to the other. Remember, they recommend the 1/0 wire for grounding and charging and our factory setup is a bit smaller. The 75" gives you a bit of excess to go around a coolant filter and whatever other goodies you have hiding under your hood. The factory grounds are all 1 gauge already so your good on that end.... just the + leads need to be worked on a bit.
On another note.... you can cut your costs by less then 1/2 if you just buy the cable from Trystar (the company that supplies DC Power with their awesome cable) get a hammer wedge crimping tool ($20) buy the ends for the cable and put them on yourself. Entirely up to you!
I don't really know why I would want it to go around the coolant filter or anything though. Why wouldn't I just make it go the regular path as usual?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 754
Likes: 2
From: AB,Can
You don't really need to worry about the ground cables because they are already 1 gauge cables from factory.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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Okay cool, and can I get both of these cable lengths from DC? Or will I have to get it from that stereo company or whatever?
Also, I changed both batteries yesterday, the alternator is like 4 days old, and the battery light still comes on when the motor is cold, for about 10-15 minutes then turns off. Are there any wires that I should check to see what might be causing it to come on?
Also, I changed both batteries yesterday, the alternator is like 4 days old, and the battery light still comes on when the motor is cold, for about 10-15 minutes then turns off. Are there any wires that I should check to see what might be causing it to come on?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 754
Likes: 2
From: AB,Can
You can take your truck into a shop and get your alt tested.... That will tell you for sure but because you already replaced your batteries it leaves just your alt to replace. Unless its a wiring issue or bad ground which I highly doubt.
Yes, when you call into DC Power just tell them you want a chunk of red 1/0 cable that is 75" long with 3/8 lugs at each end with shrink tubing. That will set you up nice.
Yes, when you call into DC Power just tell them you want a chunk of red 1/0 cable that is 75" long with 3/8 lugs at each end with shrink tubing. That will set you up nice.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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Okay good deal. Just to sum it all up, I need to tell them to send me extended bolts, spacers, the 4" 1 gauge cable from alternator to the battery(just one battery?), 75" 1 gauge cable with shrink tubing and 3/8 lugs, correct?
I'm going to order all this once I get this alternator working properly on here, so I can get where I'm going until I have the money and this one gets in. So chances are it's the alternator even though I changed it out like.. 4 days ago?
I'm going to order all this once I get this alternator working properly on here, so I can get where I'm going until I have the money and this one gets in. So chances are it's the alternator even though I changed it out like.. 4 days ago?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 754
Likes: 2
From: AB,Can
1) You need to tell them which alternator you want and tell them you want the spacers.
2) Get the upgraded charge cable (comes with fuse) https://www.dcpowerinc.com/universal...cable-kit.html
3) Have them also make you a 75" piece of 1/0 red cable with 3/8" lugs at either end that are shrinkwrapped (this goes from positive battery post on oassenger side battery to positive post on drivers side battery).
That's it, that's all.... and you will be a happy camper for years to come! Some guys from the forum here emailed me that he has had the same DC Power alternator now for 5 years with the same batteries and has not had a single problem... not even a blown ficm! They work.
2) Get the upgraded charge cable (comes with fuse) https://www.dcpowerinc.com/universal...cable-kit.html
3) Have them also make you a 75" piece of 1/0 red cable with 3/8" lugs at either end that are shrinkwrapped (this goes from positive battery post on oassenger side battery to positive post on drivers side battery).
That's it, that's all.... and you will be a happy camper for years to come! Some guys from the forum here emailed me that he has had the same DC Power alternator now for 5 years with the same batteries and has not had a single problem... not even a blown ficm! They work.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 754
Likes: 2
From: AB,Can
You will have one up on me! I have the batteries and the alternator but I had a new ficm replaced last year under warranty..... so I can't justify taking out the ficm to send into Ed until it goes bad. When it does go bad though, I will be getting him to upgrade it and add the Atlas 40 tune.