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Yeah the ficm's are flawed from factory with poor solder jobs and low grade components.... Ed at ficmrepair.com replaces crap components and improves the solder jobs inside the ficm. He would be better at telling you "exactly" what he does in there.
Low voltage KILLS ficms which in turn can kill your injectors. Of course the whole rollercoaster starts with your alternator.... a good alternator will keep your batteries fully charged which makes sure the ficm gets the juice it needs to operate smoothly which helps increase the life of your injectors.
Fuel pressure also increases the life of your injectors.... low fuel pressure = premature injector failure and an expensive bill.
No, I monitor it with my Edge Insight and as long as the voltage stays above 46 volts it's all good. Mine sits anywhere between 48 to 49 volts at all times. Once it starts dropping to 46 or less then I think it's time to take it out and get it tuned up. Last time it cratered on me Ford had to tow it to their shop and replace it (under warranty). When they die they leave you on the side of the road!
Thanks for all the great info guys!..
Mine just failed also so I ordered a DC Power alternator. Combined with two yellow top batteries I should be good. (knock on wood) Truck is layed up meanwhile but i figured its worth the wait.
Thanks for all the great info guys!..
Mine just failed also so I ordered a DC Power alternator. Combined with two yellow top batteries I should be good. (knock on wood) Truck is layed up meanwhile but i figured its worth the wait.
You will be very happy with the alternator and batteries and I agree it should be worth the wait!
Okay cool, and can I get both of these cable lengths from DC? Or will I have to get it from that stereo company or whatever?
Also, I changed both batteries yesterday, the alternator is like 4 days old, and the battery light still comes on when the motor is cold, for about 10-15 minutes then turns off. Are there any wires that I should check to see what might be causing it to come on?
How much play is in your belt? Maybe your tensioner or belt are worn out. I haven't experience this on my truck, but have seen this on a Mitsubishi before. The belt slipped until the rubber got warm and softened up. The problem went away when the tensioner and belt were replaced. If you look carefully you will see that there are wear indicators on the factory tensioner. If the "needle" on the rotating part of the tensioner assembly is to the left passed the rectangular indicator on the mount, directly left of the top or uppermost bolt.
No, I monitor it with my Edge Insight and as long as the voltage stays above 46 volts it's all good. Mine sits anywhere between 48 to 49 volts at all times. Once it starts dropping to 46 or less then I think it's time to take it out and get it tuned up. Last time it cratered on me Ford had to tow it to their shop and replace it (under warranty). When they die they leave you on the side of the road!
So, say I had it sent off to Ed, and later on my batteries or alternator die, and my ficm volts drop below 46, would I have to send it back to Ed and pay another 150 bucks to fix that or what?
Also, not sure about my belt, when my mechanic changed the alternator he said the belt looked brand new.
So, say I had it sent off to Ed, and later on my batteries or alternator die, and my ficm volts drop below 46, would I have to send it back to Ed and pay another 150 bucks to fix that or what?
Also, not sure about my belt, when my mechanic changed the alternator he said the belt looked brand new.
Well, if a ficm dies, it dies.... Doesn't matter if it came from Ed with a tune and upgrades or if it came brand new from Ford. Ford is going to charge you a heck of a lot more than Ed (mine would have cost $1100 from Ford with instal etc) and you are going to get crap components and a crap solder job and no tuning. Plus side to buying from Ed is the ficm is better quality, lower in price and comes with a good "proven" tune (and warranty). Chance are if you get a ficm from Ed vs. the one you get from Ford.... Ed's will perform better and last a bit longer. This is the take I have gotten from reading all the reviews on different forums.... I sure as heck would not buy one myself if I thought it was just some "snake-oil" scam.
If your ficm is good now then just worry about the charging system to help it stay happy for as long as possible. When you notice the ficm going south then upgrade it before it does any damage. That way you aren't spending all your $$$ at once.
Yeah, I'm trying to get this whole mess figured out, then once it's worked for a while I want to just go ahead and send my FICM. I've heard it improves mileage a little, and I could really use that as I'm not getting very good mileage at all, maybe 12 mpg.
In the event of my alternator or batteries dying, will Ed's keep it's 48+ voltage better than the stock one? Cause batteries and alternators are just things that tend to need to be replaced every once in a while, and if that's what kills the voltage in the FICM, I'm not sure if it's worth it? You know what I'm sayin?
Yeah, I'm trying to get this whole mess figured out, then once it's worked for a while I want to just go ahead and send my FICM. I've heard it improves mileage a little, and I could really use that as I'm not getting very good mileage at all, maybe 12 mpg.
In the event of my alternator or batteries dying, will Ed's keep it's 48+ voltage better than the stock one? Cause batteries and alternators are just things that tend to need to be replaced every once in a while, and if that's what kills the voltage in the FICM, I'm not sure if it's worth it? You know what I'm sayin?
Yes, I believe Ed's will last longer and perform better than a non-upgraded oem ficm.....
You are right, batteries and alternators do need replacing after a certain length of time. However, replacing batteries and possibly alternators every 2 to 3 years is ludicrous. Not to mention that in our applications the damages caused by not having a good charging system are extremely expensive. That's why I started at the top of the chain by replacing the batteries and alternator with good trustworthy parts.... in the long run it will be cheaper than batteries every 2 years, buggared alternators and fried ficms.
I've had my truck since new and it's only got 80,000 miles. I'm on my third set of batteries, my second ficm, went through 1 alternator.....and had the second factory alternator still in my truck when I decided to end this nonsense and buy a good alternator and batteries.
So does having a battery go dead, say every 2 years really affect the ficm that much? Or is it the people who consistantly have alternator and battery issues the ones with bad ficms?
I think the key is good batteries and alt. My truck will be 7 years old this November 5 and the alt. just went on it, Im on my 2nd set of batteries, and although they tested well they are comming up on 4 years old so I think Im gonna bite the bullett and replace them and start the slate clean. I also keep a battery tender on the truck if it sits for more than a few days at a time.
From all the reviews and speaking with the folks at DC, chances are this alt. will outlast the truck. The key is high quality components make a beeter product...which is why the chain store alt. fail quickly. Also as was stated before good batteries and charging system health is real important on a truck with all these computers.
Sarge
And FYI, I spoke with the guys at DC after my alt. was shipped and they said that every alt. was supposed to include the spacers so there is no need to pay for them.
Well. My mechanic looked at it all today and checked everything, said all wires were good, batteries were good, and alternator were good.
The battery light is still coming on, any ideas?
Get a different mechanic. There is obviously a problem if the battery light is still coming on and you have already been informed previously of the quality you are getting in your O'reilly alternator.... your money & your truck!