PWM vs. NON PWM
#1
PWM vs. NON PWM
I have a 2003 Ford F250 5.4L with a 4R100 transmission.
Is that automatically PWM? I'm gonna be attempting to replace the Solenoid pack.
Also other than buying a new pack is there anything else I should consider replacing while I'm in there? I've ready about wiring harnesses but that was for earlier model transmissions where you could just replace the TCC Solenoid.
Thanks in advance for any help. It's much appreciated.
Is that automatically PWM? I'm gonna be attempting to replace the Solenoid pack.
Also other than buying a new pack is there anything else I should consider replacing while I'm in there? I've ready about wiring harnesses but that was for earlier model transmissions where you could just replace the TCC Solenoid.
Thanks in advance for any help. It's much appreciated.
#3
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#6
The code means the torque converter is not locking when the PCM is commanding it to lock.
That could be a failed solenoid, a failed torque converter, a stuck valve in the valve body, or a failed seal in the torque converter circuit. If it were a wiring problem there would also be a code for an electrical problem with the circuit.
If you were to get a wiring diagram of the connector on the trans you could put +12 across the TCC solenoid and listen for a loud click when you apply or remove the voltage. While that is not a 100% guarantee that the solenoid is good, it is pretty reliable.
That could be a failed solenoid, a failed torque converter, a stuck valve in the valve body, or a failed seal in the torque converter circuit. If it were a wiring problem there would also be a code for an electrical problem with the circuit.
If you were to get a wiring diagram of the connector on the trans you could put +12 across the TCC solenoid and listen for a loud click when you apply or remove the voltage. While that is not a 100% guarantee that the solenoid is good, it is pretty reliable.
#7
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#8
The code means the torque converter is not locking when the PCM is commanding it to lock.
That could be a failed solenoid, a failed torque converter, a stuck valve in the valve body, or a failed seal in the torque converter circuit. If it were a wiring problem there would also be a code for an electrical problem with the circuit.
If you were to get a wiring diagram of the connector on the trans you could put +12 across the TCC solenoid and listen for a loud click when you apply or remove the voltage. While that is not a 100% guarantee that the solenoid is good, it is pretty reliable.
That could be a failed solenoid, a failed torque converter, a stuck valve in the valve body, or a failed seal in the torque converter circuit. If it were a wiring problem there would also be a code for an electrical problem with the circuit.
If you were to get a wiring diagram of the connector on the trans you could put +12 across the TCC solenoid and listen for a loud click when you apply or remove the voltage. While that is not a 100% guarantee that the solenoid is good, it is pretty reliable.
#9
It depends on a lot of factors, like how much do the parts cost, what is the labor rate at the shop. While we can't answer the question specifically, I can say categorically that it is NEVER cost effective to replace parts that work. If you spend $35 to find out a solenoid pack you replaced did not need replacing, you wasted $35.
#10
You could do that. The shift kit won't help this, the solenoid might. You might be spending a bunch of money to change a good part. Your call.
#11
Mark, do you know if the pin out (wiring diagram) for the 4R100 is the same no matter which engine is installed? If so, then here is the info from my 7.3 manual...
(hope this helps...)
#12
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sjl74
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
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08-02-2005 09:11 PM