When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Okay so I am going to try my best to make a very well detailed build thread of my hydroboost conversion project. I will be converting my 01 screw to a superduty hydroboost unit. I have had this truck for about 9 months and have tried all the different brake pad and rotor combos and have realized the main issue is the undersized and under performing joke of a booster/master cylinder combo Ford included with the trucks. The rotor size and pad size is also very small and coupled with a very small bore short stroke master cylinder and the under boosting vacuum booster this leads to pathetic brakes.
I have taken my time to do my homework and have done plenty of other hydroboost conversions and decided now is the time to jump into it so if you will bear with me I will take plenty of pictures of the job and give detailed information and part numbers (but me nor the owner of this website is responsible for any modifications you make to your vehicle, this is for information only so use at your own risk) so far I am using off the shelf parts and there is a list below, I plan on having all the parts by next week then I should really get moving on this
Parts list
99-04 hydroboost unit with push rod (dime a dozen on ebay) $60.00
99-04 F-450 6.8 V10 power steering hoses (direct bolt on to 4.6 5.4) $45.00 for both look around as these can get pricey I found a good website to buy them from for under 17.00 each
Master cylinder-undecided so far, I can maybe reuse the stock one or looking through the Centric parts list I can find a direct bolt on with correct fittings for under $65.00
Return hose is just bulk HD 3/8'' transmission cooler line from NAPA 3' was $19.00 and it will be Tee'd into the stock return line with a solid brass 3/8'' barb.
The mount and pushrod may need to be customized a little, if the mount does not line up I plan on taking the studs off the booster and welding new studs on to fit the correct firewall pattern. The pushrod should be within 1/8'' of perfect and if not then it will get cut and I will lengthen it with a welded union with 1/8'' wall to keep things straight and safe.
So its looking like a simple Sat morning project to me let me know your thoughts
Since no one as replied as of yet, I thought I would ask for some claitification.
What's the problem your having with stopping power on a Screw as about 5500 lbs in weight?
You have not defined it except to say your not satisified even with trying other parts combinations.
What is it your looking for or what special uses are you needing all this braking power for?
On my 02 I can lock the brakes anytime.
Once the tires break traction, no amount of extra braking power will do anymore assuming normal tire sizes are being used for street use.
I have a strong personal dislike to vacuum boosted brakes, just dismal performance. Tire size is 295/75/17 which is a 34'' tire so nothing to large. My main issue is when rolling heavy near 12k GCW their simply is not enough brake pressure it is just not there comfort wise. I figured hydroboost swaps are a common upgrade here for other years so I would be the first to do it to this body style.
Good enough.
I have also towed 12,000 GCW with the best pads I could get all around.
As long as the trailer brake controller is a good one, adjusted for sleight brake drag on the truck, all was good.
The trailer should always do it's share of braking and not depend on the truck to haul it down.
Have found this set up to be good enough.
Good luck.
The truck brakes should be capable of stopping the truck. If you have a 8k trailer behind it, the trailer should have brakes and they should be capable of stopping the trailer. I guess i dont see the need for truck brakes to stop 12k weight ?
Not only that, but the tires only have so much co-efficient of friction with the road surface before they break traction.
Beyond that point it doesn't make any difference how much more brakeing is available.
I am wondering how much engineering is going into this change over.
Factory engineering sets up a balance between the total swept braking area, the pad co-efficient of friction, the vehichle weight, the tire average co-efficient of friction and dynamic weight transfer rear to front.
.
Then engineer in the ABS function that limits fluid pressure to the front calipers as an attempt to keep the tires from going beyond the max coefficient of friction with the road surface that may be possible at any given moment while that condition exists, to maintain control of the vehichle.
A big enough change of any of these parameters upsets the design.